Thanks to the Jalopy Journal for all the cool information and Swap meet. I bought a really nice coupe and had to put it on duece rails like every one else. I find pictures very helpful. Along with all the other threads I hope this is helpful too. My progress so far.
The biggest question I had from the other threads was how to cut the subframe and what was left afterwards. I realize you have to figure out some things on your own, but I never had an unrusted model a before and didn't want to ruin my good one. I used a saber saw with a long blade and cut through the wheel well also, making the job easier for me at least and I can weld the wheel well cuts up and smooth them. I hope the pictures help others.
I used a steadfast kit for the sub rails, really nice kit. Those wheel wells are in great shape, you'll still going to have to cut the bottom to Match the kick up on the chassis. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's a good idea to brace the body especially in the rear before you cut the subrail, body is very flexible. Not trying to hijack your thread, just trying to help, good luck with it
Double check the deck lid in the opening for proper shape and gap before welding anything. The back end of an A coupe will wiggle all over when the sub rails are removed.
^^^^yes, I would fit that deck lid and check/set clearances and brace it up good as it will take off on you for sure. I would X brace the body temporarily up by the package tray area to stiffen it up.
More cool advise from everyone. That makes it so much easier and better. You guys and The Jalopy Journal make life good.
Sorry I have no advice to offer but I'm subscribed for the tips you're getting and able to provide. I'll need them when I start my A someday. Looks like a great body to start with.
For the sub frame replacement I looked at that nice set up from Steadfast but was reluctant to spend the $$ for it. Made my own, certainly not as nice as the Steadfast units but they are in and they work. Cost me $8 for the cold rolled steel and a bunch of hours of my time but hey being retired what the hell do I have to do
I agree, the steadfast kit is pricey, all you really need to do is match the curve of the kick up and weld it into the original subrail. The steadfast kit is made to run a 32 tank, so the ends extend below the rear subrail crossmember. Makes extra work if you don't want to run a 32 tank which I don't. If you have the panel below the deck lid, clamp it in place to line up the ass end. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Check my A build thread also for how I did my subrails on the 32 frame. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...build-thread-thanks-for-playing-along.986021/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The reason you are putting an A body on a 32 frame is because its been done for years and it just looks Bitchen! Looks Great.