White wire usually, teflon outer insulation, with an I.D. number printed on them. Some older British aircraft had orange wires, woven fiberglass insulation.
A welded bolt is probably better but I use these for car audio or 12V electronic accessories I install. It bolts through a metal panel or frame on the vehicle. It allows the nut to be removed and reinstalled without loosening the bolt through the panel. Picture looks chrome but the finish is satin. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-connection-systems-power-connections-master-ground-lug
I even do it on crimped connections that are exposed to the elements. Maybe a little RTV at the ends to make it water proof. Harbor Fright sells a very good shrink tube assortment that has a sealer inside of them. I grab the out of shelf-life military grade shrink sleeve from work by the spool.
Always here too.. In fact I usually get non insulated terminals ( or you can rip off the insulation jacket from your terminal) and tin the wire, tin the wire to terminal, crimp then electrical tape then heat shrink. Vibration ( even subtle amounts) can create a gap/loosen a terminal.
Hi Dave, Well according to Mad Electrical,link can be found here http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml it's merely a recommendation but I cant figure out if it's recommended to increase profit or decrease electrical issues ( I'm leaning towards the later) but history and the tremendous amount of builders here on the HAMB could give a bit more insight on what they are doing.. Please, for the love of GOD, let's not hijack this and go down the path of the electrical fan debate. I HAVE to use one because on my build I simply do not have nor build the chassis, motor and radiator in a fashion which could use the stock fan.. PM me if you would like to discuss this separately About the fuel pump, are you fine gents using just a 40A relay to your 5A fuse ( if that's what your pump calls for) to IGN on your ignition switch? Best, Jay
That's pretty dang fancy!! I am not against welding a bolt for a ground, just something I wouldn't do personally. I agree with a lot of the statements in this thread regarding the utmost importance of grounds. I also, personally, make sure there is a ground for everything and then a common grounding bus bar and/or block. I also feel and practice 6mo (annually at a maximum) preventive maintenance and with the vehicle on and all accessories running perform a leak down test ( commonly know as Ground Fault Indicator Test) is just as important as making sure there is gas in the tank.
Ah, ok, I see what they're doing. Rather than one sufficiently rated relay and wiring, they're running two undersized relays in parallel. Their reasons given make some sense, though I don't necessarily agree with them. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I use a 40 amp relay for my fuel pump and electric fan. Easy and safe to install. And yes I always use shrink tube over all connections. Side note I placed a switch toggle in the cab to be able to turn electric pump off if required.
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