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METAL band saw questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Groucho, Apr 10, 2006.

  1. I bought a used Delta upright(?) bandsaw supposedly for metal. It's a standard(?) 93" blade. First: What's the best universal tooth count for all purpose cutting (1/4" plate, exhaust tubing, etc)? I'm currently using 10/14 count. Two: How can i tell if it's SLOW enough for metal? Can i put a small piece of masking tape on the blade and count the seconds it takes to make a complete pass, or......? It works OK, but seems to use up blades for a hobby type usage. I used up a new/good blade making a set of headers for my Gasser. Lots of cuts, but thin material.
     
  2. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 16,410

    Paul
    Editor

    I bought a bunch of cheap blades a while ago
    the frickin teeth popped off like takin corn off a cob with a butter knife
    spent some more on one good blade and it's lasted more than a few years without losing so much a one tooth.
    you get what you pay for

    don't remember the count though... 14 maybe?

    and if I had to guess, I'd say maybe a foot per second??
     
  3. You betcha,,,,14 tooth and you do get what you pay for,,,,,,the 22 dollar blade will last a long time,,,in fact,,,the blade on my saw has been abused for over a year now,,,,and still has all the teeth! HRP
     
  4. 51 MERC-CT
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,594

    51 MERC-CT
    Member

    In as much as I do some stainless at times, Iv'e been using Cobalt Bi-metal blades 10-14 pitch. Lasts a long time.:) :D
     

  5. raffman
    Joined: Sep 28, 2005
    Posts: 658

    raffman
    Member

    Go to www.lenoxsaw.com or call them, tell em what your cutting and they will make you a blade and ship to your door, oh yeah check out the garagejournal also
     
  6. MilesM
    Joined: May 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,219

    MilesM
    Member

    10-14 Bi-metal We use them at work. Lenox is the best we have found. They recommend so many inches (foot) per second but I can not qoute that off the top of my head. We run them faster then recommended as speed is more important then blade life for us.
     
  7. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Everyone is absolutly right about the cheap blades. They are only good for wood or plastic and then they will break prematurely. A 14 tooth blade is good for all around metal working just be sure you enter the work easy and keep constant /light pressure on the workpiece. Forcing the piece into the blade will only heat it up, make it cut crooked/shorten it'a life. With constant light pressure you will feel the blade doing it's work and it will last MUCH longer.

    Frank
     
  8. I order my blades from McMaster Carr -they have a real infomative blade tech page to help you order just what you need. It will be on your doorstep 3 days tops.

    www.mcmaster.com
     
  9. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought some cheapie blades at Harbor Freight for my band saw and have cut all the 10 gage boxing plates for my '46 1/2T and the first blade is still going strong. Maybe luck IS better than skill :confused:

    10T - 14T will work just fine.
     
  10. T McG
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,262

    T McG
    Member
    from Phoenix

    The general rule of thumb is to have 3 teeth touching the metal surface. 14 teeth generally is good for 1/8'' and thicker. For sheetmetal I use a minimum of 18 teeth . You should always use a bi-metal blade for steel and stainless, aluminum and wood you can get by with a carbon blade. Price will tell the difference between the two. A carbon blade will be $10., a bi-metal will be $20 plus.
     
  11. The Caretaker
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 63

    The Caretaker
    Member

    I would recommend an 18 tooth, bi-metal blade. You should get approximately 200' of cutting on 1/8" metal, more with thinner material. This is using the small belt only. Mine is set up like this: Upper pulley - belt is on the smallest groove, facing out. Lower pulley - belt is on the largest groove facing out. I do not use the longer belt option. The Delta is an excellent saw. Parts are not cheap though, especially the internal gears. [​IMG]
     
  12. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,477

    noboD
    Member

    What he said.
     
  13. preferolschool
    Joined: Mar 5, 2003
    Posts: 38

    preferolschool
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    I believe the chart on the powermatic at a buddys shop reccommends 200 fpm for mild steel. But we usually run it a little faster cause he buys good blades. To calculate your theoretical blade speed take motor rpm. (usually 3450 or 1720).The sheave on the motor shaft is 1:1. Calculate the circumference of sheave (2PI*R). determine final drive ratio. Multiply drive ratio by calculated speed of sheave. Make sure to adjust for inches/feet etc. . . Also if you can fit one size wider (like say 1/4" instead of 3/16" blade you have extra material to hold the heat and help keep blade alive, but you lose a little manueverability/radius.
     
  14. repoman
    Joined: Jan 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,276

    repoman
    Member

    I recently bought a Delta new. I came with an assortment of blades. I made a cut exactly 1 crotch-hair deep with the 14 tooth blade in some tin before it came apart.

    I put on a decent Craftsman bi-metal 18 tooth, and I've been cutting all winter. I bought three thinking they wouln't last.
     
  15. I'll take the other 2
     
  16. repoman
    Joined: Jan 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,276

    repoman
    Member

    I'd send them to you, but they're the tiny 59 1/2 blades!

    I got the baby bandsaw.
     

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