Technical ***April 2017 Banger Meet - No Fooling!***

Dan makes some nice pieces.
J

 

maybe no respect.....but those damn pan's..... are a heavy b....piece

 

It is holding up the block to keep it from falling over. Those main caps are beasts!

 

On the Ford N series of tractors the cast iron pan was the frame !


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While decking my B block the machinist found cracks in the deck at exhaust 3 & 4 that follow the seat. Cylinders are fine. They did not show up with a common magnaflux but were visible during decking. It looks like if we put seats in the seat will be in and out of the cracks one one and will leave the crack in the deck on another.
So now what do you guys think? Is this block now only good for a Miller/Crager or only good for a door stop?
Is this a candidate for successful stitching?




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It does look like the cracks are following the existing seats somewhat.
It really depends on your intended usage of this, or any motor.
If you wanted to, you could probably find someone to stitch this up and then put in new seats.
That being said, do some searches on valve seats and the complications/issues. There have been many threads and horror stories, most do not end well, either financially or without replacing the block.
Now, since you mentioned going overhead, does this mean that you would consider going this route?
If you stopped right here and went overhead, you could probably do so quite easily.
The Miller High-Speed head assembly is top quality and probably the best for a street driven touring car.
There are others, some better than others, but you have to be truthful with your application.

The truth about magnaflux crack checking is that the Block will never be checked in the areas prone to cracking unless the operator is intimately familiar with the Mod "A" motor.
Just because a block has been magnafluxed doesn't mean that it is crack free. It has to pass the inspection too.

J

 

The Last B engine I built took 4 blocks to find a good one.

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I would check into fixing as john said .

 

Sometimes the hot rod disease really get hold of you.

couldn't help myself

 

Thanks for the great advice, just what I was asking for. This was going to get a Riley 2 Pot but that will go on an A and move on down the line. I will park B until fall. Steve is a great guy and I agree his product is top quality.
Now for your comment about being truthful with application. This remark was cause for pause, in a very good way.
Fourd






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Aha, now I know why I don't have one...In all the years I have been looking I have only seen one for sale in New Zealand that was affordable...and while I hesitated for 30 seconds to check it out thoroughly someone made an offer 1/3 the asking price and it was accepted. Bugger.

 

Brain fart dept: got ready to put the engine back in the Zipper yesterday and remembered that I could not install the flywheel without removing the pan that's modified to use a '39 transmission. So, off came the pan, on went the flywheel and put the engine back on the stand to reinstall the pan. There must be a better way to modify the A pan with the B lower rear half.

 

Honestly, I don't know why anyone would use the "B" pan and upper housing when this is available.
https://www.clingsaftermarket.com/addtocart.asp?prod=43
This is used with the "A" bellhousing.
I still know a few who swear by the "B" trans, of course with Zephyr gears.....

 

Unfortunately, this engine was modified before Cling existed and the tube frame was designed around this set up. Also running Zephyr gears.

 

I understand, the "B" mounting height is different than the "A", the mounting would necessitate changing the mounts.
For what it is worth, I will not use another "B" upper housing unless forced to in the future. (in or out of car)
I had one on a stand similar to what you are showing. When it broke, it cost a very expensive Dry Sump pump and rocker cover to be repaired. I leave the welds showing on the rocker cover as a reminder.
Are you running the "B" trans, or the '39?
J

 

'39 trans with Zephyr gears.

 

Denis,
does the '39 trans leave a large opening on the "B" adaptor over the starter area?
I have never tried to put the '39 on the "B" housing, assumed it would not match up.
J

 

Sorry to be late to the party but we are back to "No Alert" status

John as you know it really doesn't any special talent to see a crack. ONLY CARE!!!

DEMAND YOUR MONEY BACK and FIND SOMEONE CAREFUL IN CRACK DETECTION!

Here I have my own bench because there aren't any except for airlines and military. And I'm not into getting some guy doing you "a side job favor"

GUYS THINK OF THIS SHOP "MAG'N" YOUR SPINDLES

CRACKS JUST GLOW!

 

The party is over, someone came in yelling.

 

As some of you know I really can't see very well anymore. And yes I do yell to make a point sometimes. It's really not fun to have something fail just because someone you paid to do their job just didn't and charged you anyway.
Close enough just doesn't cut it.

The "Party" is really over when your motor takes a shit!

 

No safe space here for caps locked sensitivities. Be emboldened!

 

Bluto,
no worries over here, most cannot appreciate real experience.
The opening scenes of the movie "worlds fastest indian" don't make the impression unless you have "made" some of those types of trophies. Someone asked me once why I made such a rough sectioned view of a block, I told them I didn't have a saw blade that big so I used a hammer, from the inside.

J

 

Anyone have a few pairs of model A tie rods and ends that they would like to part with?

 

Auburn swap meet is coming up June 4th. I'll bet you'll find them there

 

I bet I would!!!...can you just have them hold the swap here in Houston so I can go too?

Found lots of good stuff at that swap over the years.

 

Sure. You're not in Richmond anymore?

 

Unfortunately, but the whole "having a job and getting paid" made the move to the sweatfest that is Houston a lot more tolerable.

 

I broke a Scat crank this time.

There I said it.



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Dan

Old friend........ say..... Moldex please!

 

MOLDEX PLEASE!!!!!!!!


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