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Customs Replacing the turn signal switch on a 1960 Edsel....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lebowski, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That is an broken/incomplete switch. That is why it does not work, at all. It also makes it harder to ID.

    Your cancelling cam, which has the electrical contacts in it, is missing.

    Try: C3OZ-13341-BR
     
  2. IMG_7334.JPG
    Thanks! i took the canceling cam off to take the pic. The cam doesn't have any contacts in it. Underneath the cam was a thin black plastic ish piece. I put it back in place for this pic... Does this help with ID?
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    751461644_tp.jpg
    I count seven wire terminations:
    upload_2017-4-19_20-57-39.png
    The part number that I gave you is a revised number. I believe that, despite its slight physical difference, it should work for you.

    I think the original part would have been C1MF-13341-A.

    C=1960's
    1=Year of the decade
    M=Mercury
    F=Full-Size
    13341=Part number for turn signal switch
    A=Revision (Could be A, B, C, D, etc.)
    Anything after A=Modification (Could be 1, 2, 3, etc.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
    PurdueSD likes this.
  4. Thank you! i think that's the 64/65 model year switch that macs offers, looks like the closest thing... i'll check it out a little deeper in the am. Again thank you!
     
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    PurdueSD likes this.
  6. IMG_7360.JPG IMG_7359.JPG
    Gimpy, the turn signal lever connects to the machined shaft of the switch. Unfortunately the shaft on my mercury is smaller than the mustang switch you suggested. I'm going to talk to a friend with a mill and lathe and see if there's anything he suggests. might have to end up cutting them in half and trying to weld the halves i need of each together. Dang! I really do appreciate the help though! it was going so smooth until the very end...
     
  7. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    You just need him to put a Helicoil in the threaded hole of the bigger one, to accept the smaller turn signal lever, and maybe turn down the end of the big one no match the small one. That's simple lathe work.

    If you got it from Summit, they are good on returns, just don't tell them you took it apart.
     
  8. no the depth is different on the end with the nipple and it's like 1/8th inch bigger around... the location and angle of the lever threads don't match either
     
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    That's weird. I will rummage in my parts bin and see if there is an intermediate part, in-between your original, and the superseded part number.
     
    PurdueSD likes this.
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    Can you check to see if the width of the end with the machined flats is the same diameter (on the non-machined area, the part that still has the curved sides) is the same on the two.
     
  11. they are different, the batteries in my micrometer just died, but tape measure math says...

    new shaft 3/8ths
    old 5/16ths
    @gimpyshotrods
     
  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Also, can you get a shot of the old one, and the new one, in the same place, like this:
    [​IMG]
    Specifically here:
    upload_2017-4-24_12-52-0.png
    I am looking to see if Ford (or the aftermarket) revised that bushing out of the design
     
  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    Yeah, my battery just did that too.
     
  14. The washer/spring removed out of the old:

    IMG_7362.JPG IMG_7363.JPG
     
  15. My old one had been apart at least once before me it looks like, so i'm not confident where the washers and spring actually goes... they had it on the bottom.
     
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    Still digging. Welcome to the world of endless FoMoCo revisions....
     
  17. ...just because i'm curious, how are you so informed? old technical drawings/references or something? Thank you!
     
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
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    I have had a bunch of Fords. Sadly, this is nothing new. I have seen as many as FIVE revisions in a model year....

    My mind goes straight to using the original pin, with the end with the flats ground on it, wrapped in shim stock.
     
  19. Hey, now your thinking like me ;)

    I was thinking about welding on it and then seeing if i could get it machined. Maybe some jb weld and shims though! I had to grind on the new switch to disassemble where they rolled over the shaft on the retainer clip... so i own it now anyways
     
  20. I'm always encouraged to see someone at least try the "repair" approach before instantly jumping to the "replace" approach. Glad it worked out for you.

    For cleaning things like electrical contacts you might also want to pick up a can of DeOxit 5 cleaner.


    https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DeoxIT

    This stuff is practically a miracle in an aerosol can. Not cheap, but a little goes a long way. Safe for use on plastic too!
     
  21. bedwards
    Joined: Mar 25, 2015
    Posts: 279

    bedwards
    Member

    Thanks for that. I am going to order a can. I have some contact cleaner, but it doesn't play well with plastics.
     
  22. Figured i should update you... first off, thank you! I have a completely functioning set of lights now. What we did was wake a entirely new shaft for the 64 mustang switch. The new one we made incorporates the (mustang sized) square milled end with the mercury size pointy end. About 20 minutes of lathe and mill time that I a friend help me out with... Took her out tonight and she worked perfect. Thanks again!
     
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,263

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am glad it worked out, and without excess pain.

    I am sorry that Ford is so goofy with part revisions.
     
  24. Denton Ford
    Joined: Feb 19, 2018
    Posts: 1

    Denton Ford

    I just found this thread and very interesting ...i have 1959 Ford which I am trying to get signal lights and horn working on 54 vicky seems very well versed in this ...could i get some help as well ??
     

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