I have a small job to do and I'd like to know is this really a lacquer primer that will sand and block like bulk lacquer primer that you thin and spray with a spray gun ?
I use the high build version. Works ok. Not as good a "real" primers. I have done areas as big as a fender with Duplicolor products. I get what I feel are acceptable results on a 10 year old daily driver/beater vehicles.
I use SEM products, regular and high-build. My local auto body supply store stocks it. Regular old Duplicolor primer also works pretty well.
I don't know what else it would be besides lacquer based primer. The stuff in a rattle can is thin, it has to be. It's going to act just like thin lacquer primer but I'd bet it shrinks even more. Give it plenty of time to shrink out and before final blocking just like the old days You can get 2k catalyzed primer in a rattle can too, but once you break the catalyst the clock starts ticking on the pot life. Its more money but it has better results and you don't have to wait out the weeks long shrink time with high built up lacquer.
Not necessarily but I understand what it is your saying. For what I'm doing it'll cost me more money to load up on material's to fill a paint gun. I just want a primer that I can sand in 24 hrs time without clogging issues.
It says right on their site that it is a lacquer primer and looking at the SDS it looks like the components for lacquer. As 31Vicky said it pretty much has to be to be in an aerosol.
My point was, it doesn't dry like regular lacquer primer. Also, it doesn't smell like it. I used some on my trailer fender brackets, and the next day, you couldn't even scuff it with 220, dry. Had to wet sand it. I thought you couldn't even buy lacquer primer in some states? For anything nice , or for a spot repair, I think I'd buy a qt. of catalyst primer, and save the rest for next time.
I have used rattle can primer for a base on motor cycles with really good results. You are correct you need to let it cure a little longer than what you mix and spray with a gun. it is because in the can it has to keep so it isn't using the same thinner ( reducer?) that you would use in the shop.
I conducted a botched experiment with rattle can Lacquer a year or so back: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-week-rattle-can-lacquer-paint-job.992366/ The failure on the body I did it on wasn't the primer as much as the rust converter with the weather. I still have pieces I sprayed and sealed with the Dupli-Color lacquer that are holding up perfectly. Small jobs seem to work out just fine as long as you lay it down nicely. Get a spray handle and a fan nozzle if you can.
Rattle cans just don't work well on a large area. It is best for spot repairs or just something to protect the material until you can get to it. Works OK on a bike because you are not covering large flat areas.
I concur. I did OK on the door panel I made for that Dodge body, but even then I got a little spatter when the can got low. My advice is switch to a fresh can when the one you're using gets light and you hear the marble making a crisp *tink* on the can as you lay your spray. It works pretty decent on grille shells too.
I've had really good luck with sem rattle can primers, also the bondo brand primer works great too. I mainly use them as guide coat, but in a pinch I've used them as a primer and it works beautifully. You just need to remember it's not designed for big repairs. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You nailed it on the head. What I'm working on is a 32 Ford firewall that is down to bare metal after repairs. This vehicle will never be a 100% concourse vehicle or ever be painted. It will remain with it's 70's weathered paint. But here's the catch, people (myself included) like detailed engine compartments. So the firewall only needs to be a little bit better than the rest of the vehicle to have a major contrast to make it appear better than it is. Some of you may say a 32 Ford firewall isn't small. Well look again, it's broken up into several small area's that need priming and guiding for low's.
I don't know if you can find a paint shop that does it but I used to buy lacquer primer that a a paint store in .Waco Tx mixed and put in the spray cans. It wasn't cheap in 1973 but I got real lacquer primer that was the same as the gallon cans after I got my hands on a compressor and spray gun . I used up a lot of cans on the 48 before that.
Your timing couldn't be better. I was just at the automotive paint and body supply store. Times are different now in California. Lacquer is a foreign word to them now because of new way's of painting.
You're going to fill low spots with rattle can lacquer primer???? Get yourself a gallon of this AG 47 - It's 18 to $25.00 a gallon depending on where you get it. Very nice to work with, sands super easy and no pin holes. I think it should be 2.5 times as much money compared to the other stuff out there. If your time is worth anything and you want a decent job of it use something decent.
No, body filler has taken care of that. Spot putty will be used (another reason for lacquer primer because it lifts enamel primers) where minor low's are found which usually occurs along the edges of the filler to bare metal.
Notice I was specific in brand and product. That's because that stuff is the bomb and you dont need spot putty, you dont get those lows and it sands almost like icing but you can get decent fill with it. Finish sand that filler with 400 if you want to. You can just about Block it like primer. Icing is $30 a quart and you can't really fill much with icing. That stuff is $25 a gallon. Rattle can primer is 10 a can. All you need to do is get it on without spreader gouges.
AFAIK, the "spot putty" that you can still buy at most auto supply stores is lacquer based. Years ago, we would thin it and spray it. Be aware that anything lacquer will take quite a bit of dry time because it shrinks so much as it cures. I have also heard that there is now available roll on primers for spot work. Body shops use it to keep from having to dirty a gun and tie up a booth for a small repair. Check with a professional auto body supply company.
Thanks everyone for your concerns. The original question and reason for this post was to find out "is this lacquer?" I don't work in the automotive industry therefore I'm not on top of what's new out there nor do I wanna learn it. It makes my head spin worse than working with lacquer with all the does and don'ts of it. I'm doing this the way I did the one and only car I ever did over 27 years ago (exception being this project, the firewall will be rattle can) shown to me by a Hot Rodder from the 50's. By the way, isn't this a traditional forum ?
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