I have a 57 plymouth belvedere. The motor is a stock 301 and I replaced the points,condenser,cap,rotor,wires,plugs, over the winter but haven't tried to start it untill now and I get no spark holding the spark plug in the wire about 1/4" from the exhaust manifold. I have 12v at the battery and I have 12v from battery negative terminal to the coil + terminal while cranking. I put the old coil back in and same thing. How do I check the coil to see if it's good. Thanks for the help.
while holding the plug wire 1/4" from the engine like you are now, with the key on, touch a jumper wire from the coil (-) terminal, to ground. It should make a spark at the plug wire.
check your point gap again. If the vehicle ran before you did the work,there is something you've overlooked.
With the key on and using a jumper wire from ground to coil (-) no spark at the plug but I get sparks at the jumper wire when I touch the wire to the ground terminal battery or frame. I did recheck point gap and it's good.
Here's a good introduction to the workings of conventional points-type ignition systems. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hot-rod-technical-library-basic-ignition-systems.983424/
double check that the points wire is not grounded. Disconnect wire from coil make sure the points are open. Put test light clamp on positive battery post and test the wire. If the light lights up, you are shorted to ground. If not rotate the engine so the points close, the light should then light up.
Run a point file or "sandpaper" through the point faces. They can get a layer of skunge on them quick if they sit for a while. Next put the original working condenser back in. The new manufacture condensers are junk and not to be trusted. Back in the day a lot of mechanics would leave the condenser alone when replacing points if it was otherwise running well.
"I get no spark holding the spark plug in the wire about 1/4" from the exhaust manifold. " If I'm reading that right, and you do not have the plug making contact with the manifold, or any other source of ground, then it will not spark, because the circuit is open. You have have to complete the circuit to ground for there to be a spark. Hold the plug against the manifold and try it again, watch for the spark across the plug terminals.
A tool like this makes testing for spark way easier. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-ignition-tester-ac664/10051080-P The dark background of the spark box interior makes viewing the spark much more reliable And removes the risk of a used plug conducting the spark down the back side of the ceramic insulator.
Ok when I get home from work I will try with the plug touching the manifold that makes sense. I do have the old condenser so I can try that as well. Thanks. Will let you guys know.
Make sure that you have continuity between ground and where the negative wire to coil comes out of distributor when points are closed. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After installing points, I always wipe em out with a dollar bill. The texture of the paper works good for removing any grunge or oil that may be on them from installing. It even works good for a motor that has sat for awhile and lost spark.
So I checked continuity from the negative side of the coil and ground and had nothing. Cleaned the points and with sand cloth and re tested and found to have continuity now. Still no spark. Put in the old condenser and bam I have spark an car starts. I bought 2 condensers and both bad but the origanal works. Any recommendations on where to get a reliable condenser.Thanks for the help.
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