Technical Wiring: Ignition Coil/Distributor HELP!!!

Hey all! If any of you have kept up with my posts you'll know I paid for a decent hot rod and got a weird crappy hot rod that I don't trust instead. Now it's up to me to figure stuff out and apply everything myself since I lack the funds to get it done professionally That being said, the guy who 'built' my car installed some odd looking coil and no-brand distributor with my 383 Stroker /TH350 trans set up. Now I know the car is on a 12volt setup but everything was done so terribly I'm going to have to install a new wiring harness too! But since I'm doing that I might as well replace the other parts I'm not sure of so nothing goes wrong... what coil/distributor/harness set up would you recommend to make this thing at least reliable??? Please help I have no idea what I'm doing









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I would suggest giving Ron Francis wire works a call. They have wiring kits for just about anything and they could help you get your situation back on track.


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Okay, thanks for that!! I'll definitely look them up

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You're very welcome


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Deep Breath. I see some loose wires, but let's begin with: What is not working? You point out parts that seem questionable, but it doesn't matter right now, if they work.
Purchase a digital multi-meter (at least as good as a Sears unit $29) that has an audio continuity function. (Position on switch which causes beep when tips are touched together), 12v test light, and some 5' jumper wires with alligator clips on each end, which will allow you to identify which wires go where, and a yellow pad to draw out your wiring diagram.
Deal with one wire at a time. Since you seem to have loose ends, figure out where wires come from(continuity test) before connecting the battery, using jumper wires to connect end of wire to other meter tip. Start your wiring diagram. One wire at a time. Before connecting battery, keep loose ends from touching metal or protect w/tape til you get to them.
After connecting battery, switch meter to a low VoltsDC setting, connect black meter tip to a good ground (BAT negative), and test battery voltage. That will be the baseline voltage you will be looking for wherever you test voltage. Should be 12. 6v or so at battery, when not running. You might want to check your test light here too. Then, check voltage at starter cable connector. Same as battery? Then, hot wire from starter to key switch. (Big pink) Same voltage? Test the back of switch to see which connector is hot w/key on (IGN). Same voltage? Does that wire go to coil+ and get hot when key is on IGN? Voltage? That lead should stay hot when key is in START position?
Does the start trigger wire(which looks like white wire to starter solenoid) show voltage when key is turned to START position? (may say SOL on back of switch) Does starter crank?
I did not mention a very cool little tool that will tell you if you are getting spark. It looks like a screwdriver with a bulb inside and a spark plug wire coming out the top. (Fits between plug tip and wire boot) If your engine starts, you know the answer. If not, this tool shows spark is coming thru wire or not. You may want to get the rust off those plugs.
What fuel pump? If electric, it's power will have to come from IGN side of key switch. Test voltage at end of that wire to pump.
Anything that is electrical must have a good ground? It's half of the circuit. Report back.

 

Whoa! That's alot to take in, thanks so much for that! I will do all of this down to the most specific sentence

Once I do that, what would be the next step? What wiring harness do you recommend??

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I doubt that you need one. Check out fuse panels on Amazon. They have some pretty cool little units for not much money.
How many circuits will you have that need to be fused? How many electric devices will you have on this car? Ignition is NOT fused.
To simplify, you could think of it this way. How many circuits do you want to be always hot, on accessory side of key, on when ignition is on (like fuel pump)? You can get a small fuse panel for each type and just supply power to each panel from BAT, ACC side of key, IGN side of key then run wire from panel to whatever you want to power, each circuit fused.

One wire at a time, Grasshopper.

Crazy Steve did Electric 101 thread if you want to learn.

 

Ok, I see. I'm just super lost. Opinions seem to differ, some say wiring harness, others say no wiring harness .. however I do at some point want to hook up some amenities in my car , just thought a wiring harness would help?...

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What amenities? List.
Suggestions for wiring harnesses are to make it easier for builders. I don't see lots of circuits on this car and you seem to be budget limited.
You are not lost. We're just sharing info
Will engine start?

 

Well I want to switch over to power windows at some point, as well as a radio since Long Beach is always good for cruising, and aside from that I think I won't add anything else since I'm really going for a lakester vibe..


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Power windows - probably best run off Accessory side of key - one wire to ACC fuse panel
Radio - switched wire - Accessory panel
- memory wire - always HOT fuse panel or fused wire from BAT or solenoid

I saw turn signal flasher
Headlights
Tail lights
Brake lights
Gauges
Fan?

 

Yeah I have all of those things too.. but again I don't know how to hook all that up . That's why I'm considering an Ez wiring harnes that could have everything labeled?..

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Hi to me it looks like you need a wiring harness kit I used one from painless wiring on my 34 chev roadster it will tidy up your underdash wiring as relays and flasher units are incorporated. Fairly straightforward job on a hotrod.
I saw this on Amazon which seems a bargain reviews are good
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Perform...=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=painless+hotrod+7+circuit

 

I read all the wiring threads since I'm clueless as to all thing electrical, rfaze as come the closest to posting a reply that I sort of understand, 5-6 rereads and it might even sound better. It always amazes me that no mater who wires a car the pink wire is the one that is ID'd as doing whatever. What is so special about pink wine, what if a different color was used? Bob

 

Thanks 37Kid. I had to reread, edit it about that many times.
I bet OP buys a kit and I don't blame him.
We'll see what he does with the original question. Looks like the wire is already there for that.

The Pink answer is GM cars had pink wire from IGN side of switch.
Any color could be used. Just needs to be one color from one end of the wire to the other, and the same color for anything else in that same circuit. EX: brown for taillights and license light (if on same circuit) VWs had each taillight on a separate circuit. Not a bad idea.

 

Well, from experience with other builders wiring can and seems to be a dark area for many. looking at the PO attempt at wiring I would submit to all that the quality of the system is suspect at first glance and would be subject to future concerns for reliability, not to mention trouble shooting future issues.
My motto has always been "if it is worth doing, then it is worth doing it right!" If economically feasible I would rip it all out and put in a new kit from one of the many vendors available (some are aligned with this forum and provide discounts for Alliance members). Then you will know what you have and how it all goes together providing for a more reliable future.
On the other hand if that is not in the cards, then you are looking at a considerable amount of time and perhaps some frustration in tracing out each wire and making a wiring diagram for reference. Clean up along the way , replacing some wires in certain cases may be required, adding fusible links for safety, soldering connections when needed, grounding where required and generally fixing this harness to provide you with the reliability that you need. Not an easy task for a beginner for sure but it is doable. I would start with the primary circuits first which allows the engine to start and charge the battery then attack the ancillary circuits. There are many diagrams on the web of the primary wiring for a typical vehicle ie. GM/ Ford etc. There may also be some from other threads on this forum via the search function.
keep us posted on your progress and decisions.

 

I use American Autowire for my builds . Have used Ron Francis also. Rip it all out and start over. Follow the directions and take your time. You will know more about your car when you get done.
The coil and dist look like Pro Comp stuff. Import made, but not top of the line for a street car.
Wiring is not some black art. However a lot of cars and bikes have burnt to the ground by bad wiring.
I bought a T bucket years ago for $ 800.00 because the guy could not wire it and was afraid to try. He went to all the trouble completely build the car except for wiring. Then got transferred overseas and I bought the car .

 

Rebel and Kwik Wire make a good product. I have the Kwik Wire 14-circuit harness in my Ford and it went in nicely. I took my time with it. My existing wiring was so bad, it was better to start with a clean slate. Speedway has a couple of basic harnesses too, I've heard that they were good.

 

I'm going to give both these companies a call and see what they can help me with. Thanks!!! Honestly, I have the funds to replace everything here I don't trust, but I DONT have the money to pay someone to do it as well...

Which coil/distributor setup do you recommend to make my car more reliable?? I really want to get this thing going. I've seen Flamethrower dist/coil but maybe you know of a better setup for what I need? ...

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Would you recommend the 15 circuit?

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AAW products are expensive. My Kwik Wire one was $275, Rebel is less than that. You can look at the Kwik Wire instructions before you buy. That's what sold me.

I'm running an eBay special distributor, small body HEI and an external round coil. Came with nice wires too, all in at $125 shipped.

 

Part of the hot rod experience is the learning journey. For some problems there can be easy answers with few differing opinions. Wiring is not difficult but you can't rush it. You need to understand what wire goes where as well as why. A new harness will have instructions but will not be an exact match for your car with your ignition or accessories. You will still need the knowledge to make it work. You can do it but there is no magic bullet. Fix what you have and do a total rewire when you do other major upgrades.

 

I bought the AAW Highway 15 for my 53 belair last year and it was very easy. Customer service at AAW will help you out if you have any questions

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Hey man! So I haven't tested the voltage on anything but I did start researching what in the world every cable in my car does... I cannot believe how simple it is! I'm glad I didn't rip everything out in a fit of rage I also did my research on what solenoids, relays, and flashing units are and how they benefit my wiring! I managed to understand now why my lights are dim and why my engine itself is so powerful yet struggles to fire up! I also managed to understand why the 38 LED Teardrop tail lights I just bought weren't flashing... man it pays off to patiently follow every cable...

Now I still want to do all the testing on the volts etc with the tools you recommended, but I wanted to ask you and the other fellas on the HAMB if you recommend I go with the Flame-Thrower Distributor and Ignition Coil?...



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I personally have had nothing but good luck with the Pertronix Units. I currently run them on two vehicles without any problems. I carry a spare module but have never needed it in 14 yrs on the p/u and the other has only been in use about 4 months on the 40. Had a Pertonix conversion kit on an Accel dual point on a flathead for 10 years, sold it 2 years ago and it is still going strong with no problems for the now owner.
So yes I recommend the Flame Thrower II and Coil package..... been good to me

 

I believe they are good, but coil and module have to match.
Glad to hear that you are learning and gaining confidence. Forge ahead.
Are you getting spark to plugs?


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Rfraze, I remember you helping me on the electrical nightmare I had on my 1956 buick station wagon.I hope you can help this fellow out as you did me Thanks again Bruce.

 

Awesome! Thanks for that... I was hesitant on getting it bc, although all the ratings on the Web are good, I'd rather hear it from someone who actually has it in their ride... thanks for the valuable input!

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Yes I'm making sure to have a matching system so nothing goes wrong. ..
Thanks! A couple weeks ago the idea of wiring and Ignition was driving me nuts! No i can say I feel confident that I can do this!
Yeah I am, but the rust on these looks pretty bad... what kind of spark plugs do you recommend for the 383 SBC I have? I'll just get new ones

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You will get lots of response to that question. Call Summit.
Bruce Fischer got to drive his car. So will you.
Is there spark to the plugs?
What do you mean by hard to start?



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