After a buddy of mine showed me the damage to his '33 Cabriolet caused by one of the bear-claw door latches not securely locking, and the door swinging open at speed, and then fixing (I hope) the busted hinges on the passenger door of my own '34 (ancient glass body), I've been thinking of how to "fix" this on my car. My friends car HAS deadbolts, electric door lock solenoids that push a pin through the door jamb, but they're manually operated, and he said they forgot to lock them (note, this is the second time that's happened with his car. I'm not commenting on them not using them...). I know how easy it is to NOT do the right thing, so I've been thinking about how to make 'em automatic. How about a switch like a neutral safety or a brake light switch on the shift arm at the end of the column, that engages the lock solenoid as soon as the car is out of "Park"? Doors would be pinned shut every time it's out of park, the doors couldn't come open unless it is back in park. There's probably a commercial product for this, but I figure somebody's done it, or has used something similar, so, any advice on whats worked, or where to go to get this (other than my buddy's salvage yard?)
I've thought about the same thing. Did your buddy forget to fully lock the door? The one worry I had with automatic locks on the doors was what if they failed with the door closed? On a roadster it wouldn't matter much but how would you ever get the door open on a closed car?
Just like power locks in any car, I thought a manual lever or rod to pull the bolt back. On my buddy's car, he thinks that the cable has stretched (from door handle to the bear claw) and they don't fully close. I know they had to slam the doors a couple of times to get them to latch.
Slamming doors to latch has everything to do with alignment or faulty latch and nothing to do with stretched cables. There's a few different ways to do what you want, it depends on what you have available to act as triggers that make it the best. Personally I'd keep levers manually operated and make a reminder indicator operational. Like a seat belt chime that drives you insane or a dash light - That would be easiest and least prone to failure. If it were to fail it's still safe to drive.
requires memory but... I reversed choke cables, cut off the handle, drilled a hole through the door and jam [A pillar] , I then mounted a pair of 50's air conditioning door openers under the dash with only the handle showing under the dash... the choke shaft is not that rugged so even though it keeps the door closed crossing RR tracks, it could be pulled open in case of a fire or crash... '55 olds ?.. HAMBER "Pete" gave them to me 20 years ago ! thanks pete
I was trying to make it idiot proof. ;-). Since it's a roadster, and fiberglass, getting in, or out, in an emergency shouldn't be too much an issue.
I like sloppy's cable idea. A lever could be fashioned that pulls by cable, put the lever and it's axle inside the cowl. Pull the cable, the leg would enter a notch in the door jamb. While the idea of an in-gear actuation sounds kool it may be over thinking the issue. All in all, I do agree that these latch mechanisms dumped on the market are simply fuckin junk. The latest I installed (under protest) were actuated by some frail wires and screw clamps to go around the window mechanisms and track. Yeah, that roadster had power windows, no, it isn't HAMB material. It's something I think about now and then. At the same time, working on "The World's Finest Motor Car" and it has suicide doors and factory latches. Not once does the fear of popping open enter my mind. A solid latch, a deep receiver in the jamb, and unless the wood was rotted away and parts missing (like the whole spring assembly) it would never pop open while driving, even over the worst tracks or rough roads. Message getting through? Anyone picking up on what I'm saying? New "bear claw" or solid OEM-style latch? I'd be in the long line of the latter ( I'd hope it was the long one).
You'd have to look at the shift mechanism to see what could be mounted. Something like Lokar's neutral / backup switch (p/n a-68154) could be used to activate your door lock solenoids. You'd have to make or modify a bracket to mount it. They probably draw more than that switch can handle, so use the switch to activate a relay, relay switches the solenoids. I'm assuming a simple always on solenoid setup here. With more ingenuity, you could build a ratcheting mechanism that would be solenoid activated. Think "Bic pen" clicker thing here. Solenoid pulse clicks the mechanism, latch engaged. Solenoid clicks again, latch disengaged. You'd still need a switch and a relay, but wouldn't have a constantly energized solenoid turning electricity in to heat while you're driving. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's a bit high tech for H.A.M.B. Friendliness, but you could hide something like this under the dash out of sight: http://www.rx4speeding.com/Speed_Activated_Switch_SAS_12V_SAS_24V.html Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would think there is probably something available,pick up a street rod magazine and check out all the ads. I have simple latches that are guaranteed to work as long as you remember to use them. HRP
Never done it, [1] you might make a manual devise like a lever and cable that is opperated by the sifter going into and out of park... [2] maybe it could work with reverse in the 3 pedal cars ? [3] what about an auto lock that locks when you close the door ? ...but won't lock without your, arse [weight] in the driver's seat... engineers to the front...
OK let the stuff hit the fan, beings that we are now going hi-tech why not an electro magnet? I prefer Highlanders long line & I would be in it. Good fitting, working stock latches. Rough roads easy fix don't drive in Cal.
I have installed that Micro Switch system in a customers car with The Locks pictured , easy to remember when that Red Light is glaring at you , works like the dome light switches in the A-Pillars of more modern cars
One of the fellas sent me a pair of these about 5 or 6 years back. They look kind of high tech. I am actually using them for door latches on my A because I don't have any door latches for it. You can buy them still, I am short on time now but I'll get the info if anyone wants them and post it tomorrow.
150,000 miles on a '32 three window with stock latches, never had a problem. It's important to move the inside handle to the lock position, then the door can't come open. First make sure your shit isn't all worn out. If it is, rebuild it instead of replacing it. There's nothing wrong with the original design
HOW about as soon as you turn on the ignition have a time delay activate door plunger solenoids then with a manual bi pass switch to open !
LOL, there's a "Lock" position on the stock latch? I honestly haven't even checked for that. My '48 Diamond T pickup has a "lock" position on its interior handles, I guess I should get to know my car a little better, but the fact that it doesn't HAVE any is my only excuse! It had little stub shafts that flopped around, with interior handles on those, but no solid shaft before I put exterior handles and full shafts on. I haven't had the interior handles on since I put them on. Now I feel pretty dumb, but I don't mind being schooled by Pete Eastwood...
This, and the photo of the aluminum paneled door with the barrel bolt remind me of the interior of my "36 Speedster, and the typewriter parts shifter. ;-)
I bought a set from Carolina Custom. They have manual, electric, and even one that locks them when the car is over to MPH. http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages...in_kits/suicide_door_safety_pin_kits_page.jsp
This is why I don't worry about the suicide doors popping open. Look how well the latch can engage the catch. Sometimes things don't need any additional thought, yet we all know that worn out and broken parts change the whole paradigm. Quick edit: this is in a Duesenberg, but Packard, Lincoln, Cadillac, and yes even early Ford stuff can be fixed to work safe.
Why not hook up the starter relay to switches in the doors. Doors not shut properly, engine won't start. Could use the earth wire off the relay, run it in series through two switches in doors. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Why not buy some latches ffrom Chrysler products that are rotary safety latches already. I'm sure there is many a rotten 42-48 four door Chrysler, Plymouth Dodge or DeSoto out there to scavenge these from. Get the door post pieces or posts and pieces too. NObody wants that stuff and it is good solid engineering as always from Chrysler.v
The Jalopy Journal
