Hot Rods Chrysler brake drum Am i doing something wrong?

Scarebird front discs, Ford Explorer rear axle, dual circuit 1" master cylinder (probably late 60's Mopar).

Today's brakes, for today's roads, with today's drivers.

 

No clip, axles held in by the bearing retainer inside the drum, which has to come off first. Never saw a Mopar along the highway with an axle sticking out, lots of GM's with the clip type retainers though.

 

Mr Mopar, the tapered axle and single bolt brake drum/hub axles in this conversation (and also used at least from as early as the early 1930s) are of similar construction to the modern 8 3/4 rear ends, the drum has to come off before the bearing and axle can be removed and the bearings are held in place with bolt on bearing flanges. The drum and the hub/drum/flang are one piece and the axle shaft is a separate part. The axle has a tapper and threaded end, and the hub also has a tapper surface keyed and wedged onto the axle tapper with a single nut. To remove that brake drum, the wedge of the hub taper and the taper of the axle needs to be broken, hence the puller and the big hammer, shock and abuse.

The modern flanges axles were introduced through the 1965 model year. Early production could have been the old separate hub and axle, or the modern flanged axle. By mid year, nearly all were the flanged axles. If no nut was present on the end of the axle, it is a modern flanged axle shaft
The modern axles that were held in with the "C" clips were the rear axle assemblies with covers on the rear, the 7 1/4", the 8 1/4", and the 9 1/4". The only Mopar axles that had pressed on axle bearings and bearing retaining flanges were the 8 3/4 and the 9 3/4 Dana, but all the modern axles had bolt on brake backing plates, which confused a lot of guys. Gene

 

You don't have to take the hubs off to do a brake job if you take off the brake drums. This requires drilling or chiselling the rivets that hold the drums on. With the drums off you can work on the brakes in the usual way, and put the drums back on with nuts and bolts.

Something to keep in mind if the hub is too much for you.

 

And when you finally get that drum off, smear some Nevr Sieze on that taper when you put it back on, it will save a lot of cussin' next time.
When I was 16 and doing my first brake job, I had a Chrysler with tapered drums, no tools, and even less knowedge. I made a puller with help from the blokes at work, put it on, lit a fire on the ground underneath it (no gas axe), got it warm (not stinkin'hot) , whacked the end with the BFH, and "pop". Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...

 

Just had to walk away from it today.Try again tomorrow.Bruce.

 

Bruce, as Squirrel illustrated you need to use the big T handle and use a Big Fuckin Hammer.
I tighten then back of, tighten and back off, then keep at it, hammering, it will pop.
Using the socket, is okay but not jarring enough, maybe with a good and powerful impact possibly might work.
They go pop then come off....

 

Respectfully, that is not a good idea. Never put oil or grease or never seize on a tapered connection. You need the precise metal-to-metal fit and anything in between compromises the mechanical strength of the connection. Tapers should be clean, smooth and dry. They do come apart, as you yourself have proven.

 

Done this a few times, it works.
I usually smack the "dogbone", then smack the puller screw hard inline w/axle, then wander off and do something else. Couple minutes/hours later; same thing. Sometimes you'll hear a 'bang' and it'll come free when you are off doing something else. But it will come off. Just takes sone more time than others.

Cosmo

 

Bruce,Just remember: Rome wasn't burned in a day.

 

Bruce can you show us a picture of your BFH.
Maybe it's not big enough.

 

Yep, done this on several old Mopars.

 

Bruce, if you have a heavy black impact socket, use it instead of that light walled one - really makes a difference.

 

I've thought about doing this on my Hudson. If you think about it once you bolt the wheel on it's just like any other car and the lug nuts hold everything on. I've been into old cars all my life and I've never understood why they riveted the drum to the hub.

Sent from my A520L using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yes that is a pain in todays world to have them riveted to the hubs.
At the time, they were the top of the line brakes.
I know of a "how to" thread to replace the stock pilot house drums with a more modern jeep drum.
Grinding the rivets off is mandatory, replacing them on assembly is optional.

 

Flat six Fix.I was using an impact gun.Thanks Bruce.

 

Cosmo.I have calmed down after yesterday.. Today I will give it another try. Thanks Bruce.

 

302GMC.I do.I will try that.Thanks.Bruce.

 

Good Luck Bruce!

 

Like Michael Jackson sang..... Just Beat it!

 

Look at the picture of Bruce's drum I don't see rivets. I think he has one where the studs are swaged. Bruce tapered axles should come off hard I would be concerned about the side that came off easy. A woodruff key is not enough to hold the kind of torque put on an axle ask the guys that have trouble holding blower pulleys on a crankshaft. You need to find the dog bone to use a hammer or a bigger inpact.

 

Here's the thing. Sometimes they come off easy, sometimes they come off hard. If you get a hard one you have to do everything exactly right and it will come off. Half ass it and it will stay there like the pyramids for 1000 years. That is a good puller but the impact wrench is half assing it. The OP knows what he needs, at least he has been told. The rest is up to him.

 

Yep. What Rusty said.

 

The 1st Dynasty tombs at Saqqara were built 2920-2770 BCE, making them 4937-4787 years old. Khufu's Horizon (aka: The Great Pyramid of Giza) was completed around 2560 BCE, making it about 4577-years-old.

Just sayin'.

 

Yeah... We need to know if your "F'n" "H" is "B" enough.

 

Agree on the hammer size! Gary

 

For our civilized friends across-the-pond, that is a VLH.

 

It has extra holes in it that you thread a bolt into and that pushes the drum off. Probably a 5/16 fine thread bolt as I recall.

 

I built my own puller using a 68 ford front hub. I had the back of the hub turned down flat and welded a 1-1/8 course thread nut on one side I had the machine shop turn down the end of the 1-1/8 bolt to fit inside the axle nut. I installed the puller hub on the axle hub using lug nuts after extending the large bolt into the backed off axle nut. Tighten the large bolt against the axle end. It doesn't need to be overly tight. Use the lug nuts to apply equal force around the hub in a star pattern and the hub will pop off. I used it on a 58 Studebaker Golden Hawk Dana 44 rear end and it worked well. I got the idea from one of the Studebaker parts vendors.
I have used the type of puller that the original poster has and this one works much better. Simple, easy to use.

 

In case you have never seen the puller dealers and mechanics used back in the day here is what one looks like. I added the wheel adapter in the 60s for pulling rear hubs off VW buses cars and dune buggies. Notice that it bolts onto all 5 wheel bolts and has a hole for the wheel alignment pin. This puller has never failed to do the business.