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Technical Polishing aluminum..... and a big block air cleaner question.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Al T, Mar 26, 2017.

  1. Hopefully this doesn't turn into a "How to wash my barn find" thread..... but I'm wondering what is the best product for cleaning and polishing aluminum? I've gone through a few iterations of air cleaners on my '37......... started with this as it was on the engine when I bought the car. Probably provided tons of cfm but looked like crap.

    IMG_3337.PNG

    Then tried this one but got some feedback the engine wouldn't breathe properly with the constricted air cleaner.......... and this air cleaner is kind of way over used anyway.

    IMG_3336.PNG

    A couple trips ago to STL I picked up a Holley 750 double pumper off of Craigslist (I wasn't happy with the Quadrajet that was on the engine) and about a month ago ordered another cast aluminum air cleaner. I had bought one about a year ago off of the auction site for my Cameo and was really happy with the quality...... and under $50 with the filter! Should this air cleaner give me enough cfm for the engine to breathe?
    I swapped out the Rochester for the Holley and installed the cast aluminum air cleaner. I like the look, but now I need to do some cleaning/polishing....... hence the question. It looks like there's a lot of oxidation on the valve covers and other aluminum parts. Any advice on products to use?

    IMG_3333.JPG

    Thanks in advance.

    Allan.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2017
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,934

    squirrel
    Member

    That's a rather small air filter, but it will probably be ok. I'd probably pick the late 60s Vette air cleaner, as the best compromise between good air flow, decent looks, and era correct aesthetics. But with that AC compressor hanging there, it'll never look quite right :)

    http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1969-corvette-air-cleaner-big-block.html

    I think on the aluminum polishing, the important factor is the amount of elbow grease you use....the polishing products mostly do the same thing. Some are more aggressive than others, perhaps someone who's into polishing will guide you.
     
    brad2v likes this.
  3. Thanks Jim. Once the white crap on the ground decides to depart I'll be able to see. I think it'll be OK.
     
  4. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,795

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought one of those pads like the polishers use about 1" thick and 9-12" around and 3 different "bricks" of different compounds and use my bench drill press on a mandril I made. Makes a mess a bit so I've learned to hang some plastic sheets around it ( actually big black trash bags) and normally need to do my T-Bird valve covers once a year to look good.
     

  5. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Use a small air cleaner. They are great for keeping out rocks and birds. The best way to polish aluminum is have it chromed and your done.

    Gary
     
  6. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    With all this I can do Aluminum & Stainless................................................
     

    Attached Files:

  7. BadgeZ28
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,165

    BadgeZ28
    Member
    from Oregon

    Air cleaner filter element is small. Will be fine for cruising, but will not for full throttle blasts. You will need something that provides 500-650 cfm of air filtration. My guess is you are around 250-300 now.
     
  8. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Good to go for around town driving, 2 filters, one on top of each other and a longer air cleaner stud for heavy foot!
    Stacked cleaners aren't the best looking way to go but like squirrel said that A/C is isn't real pretty either.....................................................
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2017
  9. As stated above if you are doing it by hand elbow grease is what will determine the out come. Semi- Chrome is good along with a bunch of others. Your filter on the air cleaner you pictured is probably a cheap paper element one that came with the unit. An upgrade to a K&N type will be a big improvement. There is another company that makes custom filters of different heights but I can't think of the name right now. google custom filters
    Not very traditional I know.
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  10. robracer1
    Joined: Aug 3, 2015
    Posts: 514

    robracer1
    Member

    White Diamond metal polish and some 00 steel wool with some elbow grease and it will look brand new. This stuff is great even works on plastic head light lens, be sure to shake the bottle before using.
     
  11. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    joeycarpunk
    Member
    from MN,USA

    As far as buffing the aluminum if really dull or scratched sand with 600 grit to like 1500 or 2000 grit paper and water then Mothers mag wheel polish or the like will get it looking like a mirror. Alot of hand work and they will turn black from the residue but I've gotten good results with that.
     
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  12. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    joeycarpunk
    Member
    from MN,USA

    Don't use steel wool on aluminum or chrome, it leaves steel particles imbedded in that can later rust.
     
    metlmunchr likes this.
  13. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Use Brass Wool^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  14. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Be Careful when polishing, use protection. Inhaling the dust can be fatal.

    Gary
     
  15. Frank Carey
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 574

    Frank Carey
    Member

    I use white Diamond on my aluminum radiator upper tank and it looks as good as chrome. Probably twice the price of other polishes but worth it.
     
    markl350 and robracer1 like this.
  16. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,125

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    Use a old hubcap for a air cleaner, is what the hipsters do.
     
  17. I thought they made clocks out of them. Hub cap may look out of place on a Beamer.
     
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  18. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 1,125

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    depends which hipster you are.[​IMG]
     
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  19. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    I had that same style air cleaner on my 39, found a K&N oval filter the right size but twice as tall. Hood clearance isn't an issue so it would work for you as well.
    As far as polishing I prefer Wenol myself. Won't remove deep scratches but it will make them shine without a lot of work. I've never tried white diamond but Wenol works MUCH better then Semi-chrome or Mothers IMHO.
     
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  20. I agree 100%. I would have never installed the Vintage Air if I had built the car, but it was and would be way too much work to remove. It is what it is........ the irony of the situation is it's not even functional because the condensor was removed to make room for another fan.
     
  21. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    If it's not functional it would be gone if it were mine! To much work? Short water pump, the rite harmonic/water pump/alternator pulley's, not a big deal. Think of the space you gain between water pump & radiator........................................
     
  22. Mother's has always been my go to product. White Diamond gets so many props, I want to try it. IMG_20150605_160920131_HDR.jpg K&N has a whole catalog of filters, they may even have a taller version of yours. The little ones for these dual quad tops cost about $40 each.
     
    mad mikey likes this.
  23. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,934

    squirrel
    Member

    I had a pair of those oval cleaners on my 55 for a long time, I found a 1980s V6 S10 filter element (round) that was a bit taller, and would fit if I squashed it to an oval shape. Not a fan of the K&N thing, at all.
     
  24. K&N filters flow much much more then a paper filter, and are re-usable, wash let dry and like new again.
     
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  25. I've got the same set-up as Brigrat, and that will polish anything with the right prep. Your valve covers don't look too bad, so with a buffer (preferably something that turns around 3400 RPM; most any of HF's bench grinders will do the trick, and less power/RPMs will increase time) and a sewn cotton buff, start with red rouge compound. After you're happy with that, if you want the 'chrome' look, follow up with a loose cotton buff and white rouge. Definitely remove them for buffing, it WILL make a mess.

    For not-too heavily oxidized/corroded parts, or to remove scratches, gouges, etc, I really like 2" Surface conditioning discs (AKA Scotchbrite) on a 1/4" angle-head grinder. The Blue disc is great for cleaning to 'good' metal if there isn't any major pitting, follow up with gray and the part will be ready to buff. For really heavy stuff, use the red or brown discs, but be careful; these will remove metal.

    I'll also note I've been the happiest with Eastwood's buffs and compound. Make sure you use a separate buff for each compound.

    Some before/after pics... left to right: finished, prepped, start.

    Alt  cover finish.jpg Alt  cover prepped.jpg Alt  cover start.jpg
     
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  26. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    For something that manageable, definitely use a bench buffing wheel.
    1-for compound, and 1-for buffing.
    I use Stainless Steel Compound Stick. Heavy Metal Compound will scar the aluminum.
    If it's anodized, that has to go. Yellow Easy Off oven cleaner takes anodizing right off.
    And I wipe on Aluma Bright to maintain the shine.

    2C401B72-EBB7-4D2A-9464-47C32D3190DE.JPG
     
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  27. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,244

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Gloves are a must. Easy n quick? Mothers is the best and easiest to find. Taking them off? Have a buffing wheel? An old one for paint? Wet sand like joeycar said above. I like to start with 400, take it to about 1000, 800 if I have it. Now this is the real "get dirty" part and you'll need an apron. Get some old school rubbing compound like we used for lacquers back in the day. PPG had DRX-16 but a good paste type does the trick. Wheel it out like paint. The spatter is a black and shitty mess and if you don't screw it down to something you'll need an understanding friend to hold it down (2 aprons required). Finish by hand with Mothers or even good ol Nevrdull. I used to do bracket race motor plates that way with a straight line sander and level them so nice it was a pure mirror reflection. Depending on size it was about a 3-5 hour job. Your valve covers might have some deep stains but it won't be seen once all slicked up. Post pics when you decide what to do, and do it of course...;)
     
  28. woodhawg
    Joined: Apr 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,021

    woodhawg
    Member
    1. S.F.C.C.

  29. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,525

    Joe H
    Member

    My friend ran a 454 Chevy powered wagon at the drag strip for years with a standard paper filter. The car would run 11.50's all day long at @ 114 -115 mph. His tow truck was a Ford with a big aftermarket air cleaner using K&N filter. As a test, he installed the K&N on the 454, it was slightly taller then the paper one but fit OK under the hood, so over all size was bigger. The car lost 3 tenth on ET and four MPH! He made another pass to confirm and same thing happened. This was a new out of the box filter, not over oiled or dirty. He tossed when he got home and put a paper element back in it's place. I have heard others tell the same story.
     
  30. chaos10meter
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,191

    chaos10meter
    Member
    from PA.

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