Thanks in advance for your help. Background: I'm building a late '50s style '32 coupe and decided to use a '56 Ford Vicky emergency brake t-handle and assembly. I shortened up the '56 assembly to fit under the dash, then used a F100 spring and equalizer along with Lokar e-brake cables attached to the Ford 9". I put on new brake pads and springs when I rebuilt the brakes. And I have adjusted the rear brakes for a slight drag. Problem: When I pull the t-handle to lock the brakes, it takes a lot of force to get the brake handle to the first stop notch. And the rear wheels won't lock. I checked each cable section in the system for binding, and everything seems to move freely through the cables. I took off the drums and used a large screwdriver to move the parking brake lever (pic2). The lever pushes a link (brake drum bar) that in turn pushes against the front brake shoe (pic1). It takes a lot of force to move the lever, and there is lots of play in the link. So it takes a lot of force for the link to finally push the front shoe (pic3). I barely got the front shoe to move. I was wondering if the long spring around the e-brake cable is too stiff or too long. But it is new from the rebuild kit and the same length and size as the old one prior to the rebuild. This all worked before the rebuild and the use of the new components. What am I missing? Any recommendations or advice? Thanks again, Richard
Have run into this when installing lokar ebrake cables on 8" rears in several 40 fords with the stock type handle. The spring on the cable was almost coil bound when installed-since then I cut about 2 inches off the coil 1st-no more problem
Do you run the emergency cables direct from the T handle to the Lokar ebrake cables? Yoy will need some lever something like 5 to 1, here is pic how I did on my Willys .
see above--the stock 40 handle has the leverage built in-just put one in a 37 woody with a 40 handle--works great. The handle you are using may be just a straight pull thus no leverage.
Tomastudor & olscrounger -- Thanks for the insights. No, I'm not using a lever. It's a straight pull from the t-handle through the equalizer to the lokar cables. So it sounds like I need to use both your suggestions to fix the issue - shorten up the springs inside the brake system AND use a lever of some sort. Any suggestion for a lever from a 40's or 50's Ford?
Not trying to break balls but its a parking brake. Thats the correct terminology not an emergency brake. Gary
maybe on NEW cars these days but -- back in the day - the E brake *could* be used to stop the car, IN an emergency, when the service brakes failed -- could ALso be used to execute a "square turn" among other things IN an emergency [ hand operated, you turned the handle 1/4 turn so the ratchet wouldn't engage and pulled and released as necessary to control or stop the vehicle foot operated, you lifted, or pulled the hand release and operated the foot pedal as necessary to control or stop the vehicle Today's NEW cars, some of them at least - you push a button to engage the "parking" brake AND you HAVE to come to a complete stop beFORE the reverse will engage gimmie back the old days, when one HAD to KNOW how to drive
"Not trying to break balls but its a parking brake. Thats the correct terminology not an emergency brake. Gary" At least for the pre-war cars era, it was called an "Emergency" brake. I'm not sure when the sales guys figured out that it might be bad for business if they said the word "emergency" while trying to sell a car while pointing out its safety attributes. Better for business to call it a "Parking" brake !
Vehicles up to 2006 (my retirement) had to pass hill holding tests (parking) along with some type of dynamic stopping distance or deceleration requirement (emergency braking), so the park/E brake really does have double duty, and should be part of any brake system, especially those with single system master cylinders.
On early cars they are an emergency brake to me and can easily be used as such if needed (have done on a 40 a few times). On a 40 it can be used and controlled easily with the handle-same on our 55-newer cars not feasible due to their design.
Best EBrake I ever had was an old combat boot laced to a chunk of iron bolted to the frame up into the car . Get in a jam jerk back on the lever and stops on a dime ! I had same issues , shorten the spring on the cable inside the drum as already said and it will be the best park brake you could ask for .
Bought an '09 mustang floor mount emergency brake assembly, then tried a '47 ford emergency BHA, couldn't find a good, comfortable location in my '30 coupe... fat belly, short arms... Called a buddy, and in 2 seconds he said try a '50's to '60's merc... a pull to stop, and twist to the left to release T handle... For $12 i picked up a '53 mercury emergency BHA... should be very similar right up to the mustangs... The most out of the way unit I looked at... needs a pulley for the cable end to turn 90* and run down the inside of the firewall... happy... .
Warm day... mounted the stock '53 Merc P B handle's bracket to the steering column mount's cross brace... another small bracket bolts through the hidden by hood cowl sides and the firewall... the pulley is at an odd angle, I'll check it when the cables show up...
I used one in my 37 years ago worked like a champ , I can't remember what the front cable was , but rear was a Mustang , car had 9 in with rear discs and would lock the wheels well , remember this is a parking brake not Emergency Brake , good Luck if your looking to lock the brakes moving at any speed . Just sayin !
An update for all who helped me. THANK YOU! I got this to work by doing two things: (1) I trimmed the cable spring inside the drums by 1" as noted by olscrounger (he suggested 2" but i found 1" was enough), and (2) added a lever into the system. I couldn't get a 5-1 ratio as suggested by tomastudor, but found a 4-1 ratio worked perfectly with no excess pulling required. So here's the completed project: 1. Pic1 - '56 Vicky t-handle shortened 1" to fit under the '32 dash 2. pic2 - bracket from t-handle to hold cable on the way to the lever 3. pic3 - lever attached to bracket which is mounted on the bolt for the left ladder bar, and, 4. pic4 - bracket between lever and brake cables to drums. Thanks everyone for the assistance. I had more hours in this thing that I imagined, but it works great!!
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