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Technical Brake issue

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JDart270, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. JDart270
    Joined: Jun 13, 2016
    Posts: 9

    JDart270

    I have a 1950 dodge meadowbrook, i have adjust all the shoes, bleed the brakes and adjusted the pedal. If i hit the brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor, if i let off and hit it immediately it goes 3/4 of the way and stops with full brake. [​IMG]
    After hitting it the second time and letting off after a second or two brake fluid gushes out the 2 little holes on the master cylinder cap.
    [​IMG]
    What am i missing to get full brake pedal everytime?
     
  2. Try this: Adjust the brakes out until the shoes are hitting the drums and the wheels will *just* not move.
    Then, bleed again, but use a hose (clear fuel line works a treat) run from the bleeder up to around the top of the tire into a container. Press, hold until the bubbles run uphill, then release and again. Hyundai, in a recall, wants the tech to do this 10 (ten!!) times a wheel. Your choice, but I'd recommend a few (three to five, minimum). Brake fluid is cheap. BTW, do NOT use DOT 5, it sucks air and makes bleeding near impossible (my opinion, I come by it honestly and with many tears on this subject). Keep close watch on the master. You will know instantly if successful, as the pedal won't move but barely when you're done. Then, readjust the shoes, and Bob's your Uncle.

    This pre-assumes (don't even Think of telling me) that the components are in good nick and/or properly rebuilt.

    Cosmo

    P.S. I DO know this vehicle, in the guise of a '52 DeSoto I did brakes on a few years back. These ARE a bitch.
     
  3. SanDiegoHighwayman
    Joined: Jun 26, 2012
    Posts: 951

    SanDiegoHighwayman
    Member

    pressure bleed [ w a tank ] BEST -- or pump bleed [ w pedal ] ??

    edit -- OR [ 3rd option ] "Vacula" [ vacuum - suction bleed ] ?

    I'm bettin there's air in the master --
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2017
  4. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,734

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Pedal to the floor pretty much has to be air in the system. Air compresses, fluid doesn't. I suspect that the air is expanding when you let off, which is what pushes the fluid out of the MC, but not sure about that.

    Isolate and test. Does the MC hold pressure if you plug the ports? If so, connect one line, bleed, and re-test. Connect the others and re-test.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    SanDiegoHighwayman likes this.

  5. Pump with foot. Even with the Hyundai recall (Genesis, change to DOT 4, circa 2013), you pumped by foot.
     
  6. c1067
    Joined: Dec 28, 2012
    Posts: 8

    c1067
    Member
    from ohio

    I've successfully converted several systems to dot5 with no issues whatsoever. I've found good old gravity bleeding to work.(it is a slow process.) Followed by opening 1 bleeder at a time and have someone slowly push the pedal only 3/4 of the way down. This way you don't have to worry about the master hanging up. Repeat until you see no more air, and or until you get a perfect pedal


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. SanDiegoHighwayman
    Joined: Jun 26, 2012
    Posts: 951

    SanDiegoHighwayman
    Member

    well, my "antique" pressure "ball" bleeder from the 60s was always the best to sort these kinda difficulties ;) but, it's blown it's bladder now [ actually some time ago ] so I have a "Vacula" [ air line powered ] that's alMOST as usefull -- only time I've had to "pump" brakes was to *center* the switch to shut off warning lights.

    My "ball" bleeder had adapters to fit various master cylinders that screwed right ON to the MC just like it's OE cap [ made it real simple to use ] those *under the floor* MCs are a REAL PITA to deal W

    good luck :eek:
     
  8. JDart270
    Joined: Jun 13, 2016
    Posts: 9

    JDart270

    Thanks for the responces, i should have mentioned i have bleed with 2 person team, a pressure bleeder i made out of a weed sprayer and finaly what was the bes was a one way ball valve i found. Cosmo your idea smakes complete sense, im not getting any air out of my system at the moment but i had the thought of an air bubble stuck somewhere and that might get it out if so. Also 2ed question on the front should i bleed top or bottom bleeder first?
     
  9. I'd do a split:
    First, top. Then, bottom. Last, top, after a couple minutes, allowing air to rise, if it were there to rise.
    Doing both at the same time may not work well, BTW.
     
    JDart270 likes this.
  10. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    XX2^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
     
    JDart270 likes this.
  11. I appreciate that some say they have used DOT 5 without problems. However, keep in mind that DOT is decidedly NOT recommended for any ABS system, due to air suckage issues. Further, and for the same reason, altitude will cause you to lose braking power (if not complete loss of braking, which is what happened to me at 10,000 ft) due to the inevitable air bubbles expanding due to loss of atmospheric pressure.
    Given the above, what was so wrong about DOT 3 or DOT 4 that made you change?? It's only the braking fluid that is used in 98% of cars on the road today (go ahead, ask me which ones don't use DOT 3 or 4 :))

    Cosmo
     
  12. JDart270
    Joined: Jun 13, 2016
    Posts: 9

    JDart270

    Kool thats what i was doing because i was unsure but it helps witht the confidence
     

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