I have a stock 59 283 long block, took to machine shop disassembled to have block, crank and heads checked. All checked out good. This is my first engine build so my question is what should I have them do since this is a budget build. Block is already. 30 over. I plan to do entire build except cam bearings. They gave me three prices, they rebuild and supply parts & labor $2000, I assemble $1850, no parts just machine work $1175. I cannot afford any of these options so I need advice and some education. Plan to run in a 5 window. Talked with shop, explained situation and below is what has been done. I owe them $432.34 as of today. They are suggesting the additional items. *rough-bore the block +.060”, $100.00 *resurface block decks, $90.00 *grind crank .010R/ .010M, $135.00 *magnaflux heads, $80.00………………………subtotal $405.00, with tax $432.34 Additional items being considered: *finish hone the block, $100.00 *clean the block, install cam bearings and plugs, $135.00 *cam bearings, $33.58 *freeze plugs, $14.79………………………………subtotal $688.37, with tax $734.83
hmmmm.....last time I did one like that on the cheap, I had them replace the cam bearings, hone the block, clean everything and do a valve job (did not replace any guides or seats). Also replace valve springs, rings, bearings, and all gaskets and seals. used to cost a lot less! What you need to do to the engine depends on what condition it is in, and how long you want it to last after you get done fixing it. If you want it to last over 100k miles, then it probably needs everything possible. If you want it to last 20k to 40k miles you can get away with less.
Must be a slow week there and getting close to the end of the month.... My 355 SBC ran me $1760 in the machine shop in late 2015. Included a .030 bore, general check and clean, crank cut .010 under, balanced the flywheel & clutch plate, new cam bearings, bearings, assemble the short block, install & degreed the cam in. I supplied the pistons, rods, new main cap bolts, cam and timing chain set. They pressed the old pistons off the old rods, I wound up using new parts and the drain plugs in the side of the block had to be coaxed out. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. AND it was line honed. The did a good job of getting the flash off the new pistons before putting them onto the rods. Everything I supplied for the build came to about $2500 between the heads, intake and everything I already mentioned. What new parts are they supplying?
Pay your bill for what they have done, pick your parts up and put in your garage until you research the various costs of rebuilding and save up some cash. If I remember correctly a 283 can go +060 on bore, no problem. Speedway, Summit, Jegs all offer rebuild kits at various price points depending on parts choice, Not sure on 283 parts. I do not know current automotive machine shop prices today, but I'm sure a reputable shop is in $100+/hour range. If this is your first build, buy some SBC build books, several available, talk with someone who's actually built some engines, lots of details involved in engine assembly. There is no room for error, a small mistake leads to junk. I have built many engines in my time and the last 2 engines I used were purchased SBC chevy crate engines, one 355 from a speed shop, dyno papers, broke in, ready to drop in, And one GM 350 from Jegs, $1495 w/ free shipping, IMO, the deal of the day and for the beginner, you can't go wrong. Again IMO you are going to spend $1500 anyway to rebuild a SBC correctly at today's prices. If you want/need to build one yourself, read, research, get some experienced help to try to avoid problems/mistakes. Everyone starts somewhere and wish you well, there appears to be several experienced engine builders on here, try to contact one in your area for help/advice.
I would pay what I owe there thank them and pick up my stuff. I would carefully inventory my stuff and shop around. Try Competition Products. They will beat any and all in parts. And they are an American company. From race to stock no problems. Have used them for years. And they also have broom /clearance sheets. Check em out.
Unless you need to use the 283 for personal reasons you should go with a 350 crate motor. As stated above they are cheaper than a rebuild. Even 283 rebuild kits are more that 350 rebuild kits. The best thing to do for a budget minded person is to buy a running used motor. Clean it up and run it! If you are like most with a hot rod you will be using it less than 5000 miles a year. Even if it uses a quart of oil every 500 miles you will only spend about $40 for oil in a year. Much cheaper than a rebuild.
Thats not too far off on pricing. If the bore is not too far out, you can just hone an re-ring it and save a lot of money.
The last engine I sent to the shop cost less than $500 to have the block, heads, oil pan, valve covers and timing cover. hot tanked. The engine was bored .030, valves were ground, new cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, crank turned .010 under and new pistons installed. I supplied the parts. This was 3 years ago but am sure prices can't hae gone up that much
283 Chevys are great little engines. "Checked'' ought to have a sheet with the findings, right? Setting up to check crank and cam bore alignment is 1/2 way to line boring. Any less than perfect and it should be done at that time. Setting up again would be double labor. Same with deck surfaces & bore. Hopefully, this means your crank will go in the block as is with new bearings, and only a clean up final bore for whatever pistons you end up with. Please keep us posted. Build a couple big blocks and the prices you speak are fantasy btw!
MGK, lots of good books on building a small block, and youtube if full of stuff. It would help if you can find a friend with mic's, and some experience. Great time to learn. But, as guys said, unless you really want the 283, by the time you pay for a valve job[and you should consider hardened seats], pin fit on new pistons, bearings, rings, timing set, cam and lifters, you could buy a crate motor.
I remember a couple years ago my Dad had the 283 from his '63 rebuilt. He spent way more on internal parts than if he had a 350. Your research will probably show the same thing. If you don't care about the actual engine size and just want a SBC, save the 283 for later and find a 350 core. The parts cost savings (Jegs, Sumitt, etc.) will more than pay for the cleanup you have to do over again. Around here 350's are almost given away. Everybody that used to rebuild them now just buys crate motors.
Those prices are not out of line. I had a 327 rebuilt 1½ years ago, pretty much from intake to oil pan, fully assembled and it was more than your prices. I paid a premium, but my machinist/engine builder was a dream to work with and would take the time to talk to me and educate me on what was being done. He even came over to my house to start it for the first time. Cheaper to buy a crate engine --> YES, but my 327 is original to my car.
I'm pretty much ant-crate motor. They work for some people, that's why so many are sold. For what I spent on my SBC, I could have had a comparable crate delivered to my shop and could have saved myself a lot of time and effort. But, hell... it was fun.
Put it back together with the old parts and run it is the cheapest option. As has been said, I would go with a genuine GM NEW long block crate engine for $1568.24 and free shipping. They also offer different level packages with accessories.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/10067353/10002/-1 Free shipping and depending on where you live no tax
Just read your edited OP, prices look to be in line. Remember, it's best to have all your pistons and parts before machining. This way, the rough and final boring can be done as he mic's the piston going in that bore. Forged pistons are best, find out what he's selling you. Rod bolt & a fastener upgrade kit is cheap peace of mind and worth it IMO.
If the .030 over bore is straight, why bore it .060 over? Hone it lightly, put your pistons back in with new rings, and run it. Why buy pistons if you don't need to.
just had my 350 done cut crank $80 cam bearings, hot tanked, checked, honed( bores were in spec) rods checked, valve guides, hardened seats, resurface heads,and valves fit $350 including the guides, seats and cam bearings springs $35 elgin RV elgin rocker arms $40 comp cam push rods $35 elgin cam and lifters $115 bearings, rings, gaskets, and oil pump $150 runs great (the heads had already had the guides replaced previously wich made it cheaper to install new ones) the dude even threw in a new set of valves he had leftover from a previous build that didn't want the 194 sized valves
Why is it that something is always "cheap'ed out " on? Damn! Ya, I'm frugal too, but, some things are just setting yourself up for disaster..... Do it once, Do it right.
Read this COMMON list of Automotive Machine Shop Prices... http://www.besracing.com/machine-shop-services.html http://www.steveschmidtracing.com/machine-shop http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/pricelist.html#
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