Ok Guys I Know This Has Been Discussed A lot...Cant Seem To find Any old Threads On This .... I Bought A 1957 Rear End To Swap Out My Original Torque Tube 1952 chevy coupe. To Open.... I Know It Should Be A Direct Bolt In... What Other Mods Needed To Start The Swap ?? Thanks Guys
It is not a direct bolt-in. If you take a close look at where the centering pin (aka: the bolt that holds the leaf pack together) is in relationship to the axle centerline, you will find that it is not directly under the axle. It is under the pivoting perch that your current axle attaches to, which is forward of the axle centerline. If you simple mount the '57 axle on that pin, your wheels will be abnormally forward. You will need to figure out how much farther forward the pin is, and drill a new hole in each perch on the '57 axle, forward of the original '57 one. Mount it in that hole.
Here's a picture of a commercially available conversion kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/1...-sedan-rear-end-conversion-kit-rck4954-19408/ If you look at the spring perches, you will see two locating holes, one dead-center, and one forward. You will need to duplicate that hole orientation. I forget how forward it is, but that is easy enough to measure.
Same thing I have, so many years ago that I don't remember the exact distance the pin is offset but you will also need to get some ubolts built, not a big deal. The springs spread out ever so slightly if I remember correctly but work fine. I rigged up an emergency brake system using the original pull handle. Just a suggestion, replace the flex hose to the rear axle. Hope this helps a bit. This has been under my car (1951 Canadian Pontiac - same frame as Chev) since 1977 or so and has worked well.
In this case, the pin hole is re-drilled 1-1/2' forward, and 1/2' inward. We did our 51 Bus Coupe with a 56 housing using those measurements. You could re-drill the hole the 1-1/2' forward, and leave it at that, then see if the leaf springs seem to "lean" one direction or the other (inward or outward), and go from there. We used some new overload shocks with coil springs surrounding the shock, meant for 55-57 Chevrolets, and that took care of any tendency for the car to sway back and forth (the stock springs are kind of narrow, the torque-tube taking the brunt of rear end stability). We also used slapper bar type traction bars set with a close contact on the snubbers. The stock leaf springs worked fine doing this. If you have the extra $$$ for the aftermarket leaf spring kit, then go for it. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
51 Pontiac does your Pontiac have the same rear axle as a Chev? I need to know this because I need gears from a Powerglide Chev with torque tube, if Pontiac is the same that expands my field of search.
Yes, the lower levels of Canadian Pontiacs had the same frame as the Chev, same torque tube rear end to the best of my knowledge and same front suspension. They did have a flathead 6 engine however with a different bellhousing but I believe the same transmission. I originally put a 235 in the car bolted to the stock tranny and rear, swapped to a 235 and powerglide with the '57 rear and now 350/350 combo.
I think if you are going to be putting significantly more power down, you should ditch the OG leaf springs as they are narrow and noodley since they only had to locate a torque tube rear end. You will have significant axle wrap otherwise unless you engineer a torque arm etc. the effect will be further magnified if you decide to use lowering blocks also. Chassis Engineering has complete setups with new shackles mounts and springs. I know a lot of people stick with the stock springs, this is just my take on it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I put a '57 Chevy rear in the chassis of my '50. I am using c10 truck arms and a panhard bar for location. This would be a really hard swap to do with the body on frame however. Other alternatives are 4 links etc. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Inward from outside to middle ...or middle (driveshaft side) to outside?/ I understand the forward hole . However I assume its from center hole forward 1 1/2
Go forward, towards engine, one and one half inches. Then go inward. towards driveshaft one half inch. As said here somewhere, you may not need to do the one half inch inward. See how the rear end sits on the springs, if the springs are pushing or angling outward, towards the wheels, with the spring locator pin in position, then be sure to do the one half inward step.
Ok So Should I Prefit The Rear End On Springs Before I Drill Any Of The New Holes? I Know I Will Still Need To Drill Forward To Center It Up Correctly..
Yes. Before drilling anything, toss it in there and see if you can get the pins into the stock holes, side-to-side, easily, if not, put one in and make a note how far off the other one is, cut that number in half. That's your offset, per side. Drill forward, and sideward accordingly.
Lowroder, you have to drill the new holes one and one half inch forward, for certain. That will center the tire in the wheel opening ( front to rear ), as you said. BUT, if you just drill forward and not the one half inch inward and do the fit, you may not have enough room to drill a second hole inward, if you need to do so, being that you have already drilled a hole, in the forward position only, on the pad. Going forward one and one half inches, then 1/2 inch inward gives you ONE drilled hole ...... if you do it forward only, then NEED the inward hole drilled separately, now you have two drilled holes. Problem here is, with two holes drilled so close to one another, in your two step process, the holes may interfere with one another. I hope that makes sense to you, tougher for me to explain in writing, instead of being there with you.
ok so if I don't go with this adaptor piece to keep my original tranny...whats a good trans for this rear end it has a 3:36 according to the tag on the center bolt section
good info keep it coming i have a 52 hard top 3 speed would like to convert it powerglide with 55 thru 57 rear end
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