Hot Rods Spalding Bros Repro, for "Too Tall" Ganahl.

Niiiiiiiiice. Gary

 

Looking better all the time.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Brake pedal fab today. the first 3 pics are the mount and pivot. When making brackets that need to be stout, with a 90 degree bend, I sometimes use a section of 1/4" thick rectangle tube. I machined the 3 sleeves, the one with the zerk has a grease groove inside. The tubing I used for the pedal is 7/8 - .134 wall DOM. It's hard to see in the photos, but the assembly bolts directly to the mid-mount plate, that is 1/2" thick. I need to order a new brake cylinder, and a couple of "Bulls Eye" pads. After as many early Ford pedals as I have had, the thread is still a mystery to me. I would like to machine a boss to weld in the pedals to fit the pads, but will probably saw that portion off of some original pedals.

 

Loving this build, and looking forward to the Dean Lowe RPU build as well.

I am not sure if they all are, but some of the early Ford pedal pads are an NPT thread.(can't remember which size, but maybe 1/4 NPT?)

 

Simon, I tried to screw a 1/4" pipe nipple into a stock pedal assy and it didn't seem to fit. But after your post, I took a pedal pad and it fit perfect into a 1/4 pipe bushing. Thank you, and thanks for tagging along with us.

 

Well, I just learned something new! That's it for today.

 

The thread for the Ford Bullseye pads is actually 1/2 - 18

 

They sure are. I just figured that out about two weeks ago. I want to tap my 32 pedals because I like the looks of the bullseye pads. Iv been looking for the same tap. Where did you find yours please??? I looked through my thread pitch set for cutting threads on my lathe. And found out it was 1/2-18. And of course you can't just go to the local hardware store and pick one up.

 

Try McMaster Carr.

 

I am pretty sure that the pedal pad I had was a tapered thread - I'll see if I can find it and check it out.

Edit -found this old thread from Mart that confirms that at least some of them have 1/4 NPT threads ...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-simpler-the-better-early-ford-pedal-pads.293650/

 

I checked McMaster Carr first but no luck. I found it on Amazon.com for $13.98, just got it today.

 

Too bad you can't get Bell wheels with the four mounting bolts like they used to have.

Was the original brake pedal fully hand-fabbed, or was it made from an OEM part? Your fabrication sure is impressive. Do you leave the final reaming until all welding is done on the housing since they might shrink a bit?

 

This shot shows part of the pedal assembly, notice how the round tube pedal curls under the engine mounting plate ? It, as almost every part of this car was fabricated to fit, unlike most of the racing roadsters of the period. Since we are using a clutch and trans, versus an in-out box, I am doing my best to make it fit the construction style of the original. And yes, I am planning on some shrinkage. Also, Pat and I talked yesterday about how to work around having both the brake and clutch pedal in the same area, as they will both be operated with his left foot. This is a case where having 2 left feet would be handy !

 

Can you cheat and put the brake pedal on the right side?

 

To run on an oval track, its natural to throttle with your right foot, and brake with your left. We are going to install a brake handle on left frame rail that has a rod that actuates an arm welded to the pedal sleeve. That way Pat can hold or apply the brake with his left hand, while driving out on the track. It will work out well, if he chooses to drag it, or take it to the Colorado Hill Climb.

 

Marty,

How come you guys choose not to use in-out box like original? Is it so it drivable on the street??

 

Pat doesn't have plans to drive it on the street, but the clutch and transmission makes it so much more usable for today's events, like drag racing at Eagle Field, and perhaps the Colorado Hill Climb. With an in-out box like the original, just starting the engine requires a push start, and would limit the use to oval track vintage events.

 

Roger that Marty. I didn't know if pat was gonna use one but couldn't find one. What's on old original bell in-out box worth? Iv been looking for one and wonder if anyone knows what the cost or are worth? Any ideas?

 

I don't know what they are worth, but I if I spot one, I will let you know. See you at LARS !

 

Yes sir thank you

 

Amazing build

 

Yea I can't wait to see it. Will it be at Lars?

 

That's the plan, I have been wiring on my 53 Ford COE, to transport it down to LARS in style !

 

Marty that is a pretty good size bundle of wire you have got there, plus a hand full of ty-raps too

DND

 

Don, That pic was taken 3 months ago, most of those wires are now connected ! We are down to the short strokes on the wiring.

 

Damn - I had planned on getting over the LARS this year, but just like last year, I have to postpone my trip.

I really wanted to see this tribute car in person!!!

I'd love to see the 3 orange cars together - this tribute-T, and the two #99 cars - man what a day that'd be.

 

The Roadster won't have paint, just raw construction this year. Maybe we can make a video, so it will be more like being there with our HAMB friends !

 

I have been working on the COE, built some fender flairs to cover the outside dual tires. Now it's back to work the one that really matters. After fabricating the throttle pedal and pivot, (the new "Bulls Eye" pedal pads will be mounted next), the front of the belly pan needed some support. To add some protection for Pat's feet, I bent up a cross hoop and a couple odd bent tubes out of 3/4 X .120 wall DOM. After some fitment, and the addition of some mounting plates, and some tabs to fasten the belly pan to were tack welded in place. Now I can add some foot rest plates, to complete the package. Bending tubes is one of my favorite things !

 

I reworked the outer legs of the transmission crossmember. The 1st shot shows how it was, and the others show the change to the curved legs, and the belly pan support. It made a major difference, freeing up space behind the driver's heels. Pat will appreciate the extra room for his feet.

 

Would a CAE work? I've got one complete with torque tube bell and driveshaft.

Steve