Technical SBC ramshorn exhaust manifold ( Update )

Ya i guess so, pictures sure are deceiving sometimes. Looks like you have similar room. Your steering shaft is below those long studs now that i go back and study. Close for sure...

One other thing to consider is you chose the 2-1/2" rams horns and mine are 2". That may kill it for ya...

Why not use a front mount on the 327 instead of the side mounts? Just curious...

 

I just want to tell you guys how much I appreciate all of you taking this much interest in my predicament.

I'm giving this a lot of thought right now . I have a doughnut to work with but it's 2 1/2" . I'm thinking that 2 1/4' would probably turn quicker. Bill

 

I started out in that direction , but couldn't come up with something that would work with a mechanical fuelpump. Bill

 

I have a 300 hp 327 in a 1939 Ford Coupe - Muncie 4 speed and for now, original steering box and column. This car did have the 2 inch Chevy truck ram-horns. I now have the 2 1/2 Corvette ram-horns - original pieces that my Dad never put on this car - he did not have a welder and limited fabrication tools in the early 1960's.

The passenger side is no problem. Driver side is tight and this engine is mounted about 1.5 to 2 inches higher than normal because the tailshaft of the 4 speed sits in the stock Ford location. If the engine was mounted lower - the space between the steering box and rams-horn would be extremely tight.

I have a 1/2 inch thick 3 bolt flat collector flange that matches the bolt pattern on the Vette manifolds - I plan to do exactly what gimpsy above described for my '39. The original Vette ram-horn has at least 1/4 inch flat surface to match with the collector flange and I was planning on a dead soft aluminum collector gasket and really mount the exhaust system to minimize shaking. I have urethane trans and side chevy motor mounts vs the OEM mounts and this really keeps the engine/ and trans from moving around. The OEM flange and biscut will not allow a quick 45 degree turn I need to clear the steering box. I am planning to reuse the stock steering column and banjo wheel - but cut it and add a Signaw 525 or Flaming River Vega box (30% STRONGER) . This is the reason I have not finished the exhaust - I have not changed out the steering yet. My opinion is it should work well - if you look at mounting surface on a block hugger header - it is about the same - but have not tested yet. Let me know -

 

You can check on a header pipe from a big block truck.
It should have the 2 1/2 inch pipe.
Maybe a trip to the salvage yard.

 

I had a set of Honest Charlie front mounts on my 327 in a 1939 Ford w/ Muncie 4 speed. I first changed out to new OEM rubber mounts. When you work the clutch - tail shaft still moves, then - side urethane engine weld in mounts mounts and urethane trans mount - no movement. From my limited reading - front mounts are not that secure unless engine is adapted to original trans that has 2 side mounts. - Yes the manual fuel pump was tight with the front mounts .

 

I'm trying to digest everything that this thread has presented to me today. Correct me if I'm wrong , but on the passenger side , wasn't there a gasket between the manifold and the heat riser and wouldn't that be similar to what could be done on the drivers side? Just thinkin' Thanks , Bill

 

Yes.

 

I just built the exhaust system for my 46 with a 283, with ram horns. used 3/8" flanges with a gasket. No leaks!








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Sounds good - I will give this a try.

 

We've owned a muffler shop for forty years so we have a little experience. Your observation concerning the heat riser flat gasket is correct, except that most passenger side SBC manifolds had a flat surface for that gasket to seal on. You probably can use a flange and flat gasket, but as you know there will be only about 1/4 inch of flat area for the gasket to work with. So if you go that route, use a good metal lined gasket, I don't necessarily like copper or aluminum, as they tend to distort during use. Sorry at the moment I can't come up with a good part number for the gasket I'm thinking of but it is made like the manifold to head gasket, with perforated metal covering the complete gasket. If you use a normal "o ringed" gasket, you will be depending on the paper portion of the gasket to hold the exhaust pressure, as there won't be any surface area on the manifold for the ring to seal against. The suggestion of the mandrel bends sounds good, there will need to be some aggressive bends unless you can reroute your steering out to the frame and back. (We've seen some unusual methods of connecting the column to the box, the worst being a flexible cable from some early sixties model!) So, doable and from our end, we would suggest getting the steering worked out first, then make up the exhaust to fit. BTW, if you hadn't already figured this out, you need to replace those long studs. K

 

I have them in just for reference. Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. If you should happen to recall that part # I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Bill

 

I've had these on the shelf for a long time from a 400 I built for my GMC, about all I can say is I have always bought Fel-Pro when I needed a complete gasket set. They are a steel core with a graphite coated asbestos (?) and I didn't check one but they look to be a tick under a 1/32 of an inch. I looked for a p/n but came up empty, but didn't Fel-Pro used to list right on the box everything included by part number?

 

You might have to use a double U Joint and a support bearing to move the steering shaft out of the way of the exhaust manifold. You might need the block hugger headers also. You can also shorten the steering column and move it up higher in the firewall to gain some room.

Attached is a pic of an example. Even though mine was a small block Ford, the idea is the same.

 

here'sthe donut gaskets if there is not a NAPA store in your area.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#...ead+pipes&tbm=shop&*&spd=16576840474945007116

any exhaust shop can push the flair in your had pipe and the flange can also be sourced from the same place as the gasket.

 

I have ram horns on my SBC, I did see the donut with the sleeve on eBay, it is a Corvette item. I didn't have the sleeve in mine until 2 weeks ago, so my donut was blowing out and it cooked 2 wires on me. I took off the passenger side, took it to Pep Boys, rummaged through their exhaust adapter bins and found a short piece of pipe that fit the donut and was tight in the manifold. Went home, whacked the pipe into 2 pieces, 1 for each side. I just did the passenger side for now, pressed the pipe into the manifold good and tight.

 

Muffler shop did my coupe over twenty years ago. Has not leaked yet. They had steel flanges and gaskets. He welded the lead pipe to the flange at the angle he wanted. Been good so far. No donuts. By the way my cop friend doesn't call them donuts anymore. Their called energy rings.

 

I pulled this pic off a Model A build here on the hamb. I am going to use this solution as my steering shaft and exhaust pipe are trying to occupy the same space on my Model A build as well. I am using 2" outlet ramhorns but I think it would be the same for 2 1/2".


I had a friend with a computerized plasma machine cut me some 3/8" flanges (we just scanned the gasket into the machines computer and changed the size of the center hole) . At NAPA Felpro flat gasket # for 2 1/2" ramhorns is 60117, the price is $1.80. It looks like the one pictured in the post above and takes a day to get them from their warehouse. Speedway sells "U" Bends in 2 1/2" for about $11.00. you can cut up and configure what ever you need. There are a couple of threads on here pertaining to that. Hope this helps you with your dilemma.
I am using a Heat Riser ramhorn on the drivers side (no bevel for donut gasket) and a 1968 thru '72 chevy pickup ramhorn, that turns back, on the passenger side. The NAPA Felpro # for 2" exhaust flat gasket is 60083 with the same price of a $1.80
Bob

 

Pretty cool to me every time I see guys jump in like this to help someone with a problem.

 

Did a 40 a while back with a rochester injected 327. Used a 525 box and modified stock column. It had 2 1/2 rams horns and CE motor mounts. It was tight but we moved the box back on the frame about 1" and it all fit BUT jig it up and make sure the drag link clears the pan in lock to lock position-it clears by about 3/4"-have done a few this way. Sorry-no pictures. but I can try to find some-car is in Monterrey

 

That's how I would do it if you want to use the manifolds you have. With only the narrow edge to seal on I would make the flange 1/2 thick and a little larger on the outside for more support. I have machined the turn back manifolds at the head mating surface at an angle to tilt the outlet in closer to the engine block. I don't know if the straight down ones will work doing that.

 

Well, It took me a few days to gather up the parts I needed. I started out making the flange .
I ordered the 2 1/4"street rod exhaust kit plus the tight ninety.

While browsing the catalog I noticed the 2 1/ 2" to 2 1/4" reducers , so I bought them which worked out really well

It allowed me to make a very quick turn right out of the gate



I had to tack in my motor mount so I could put the weight of the engine. So the view is obstructed

I want to thank all you guys for taking an interest in this part of my project .I guess it was a group effort. Thanks to all, I really appreciate it. Bill

 

Thank you for returning to post your solution. Looks good.

 

Thanks for posting the pics, glad it all worked out for you. Got mine tacked together this past week also. What catalogue did you order from?

 

Awesome glad to see photos of the resolution

 

Jegs

 

You do know there is a rams horn that tucks in towards the block and would help you a ton for clearance . I haven't played with Bow Tie stuff in years . If I remember correctly 68-72 Truck manifold tucks in and exits towards rear .


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These Dorman ones have a good sweep to them. I have the passenger one on my SBC.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsear...Pickup&origin=YMM&parttype=Exhaust%20Manifold

 

Thanks
Bob

 

.SPEEDWAY .has anyone tried a set of these