Trying to cram an 8BA in a 1929 Model A coupe. I have read all the posts mostly unclear The water pumps are too long as is everything else. Can anyone tell me the most economical solutions step by step. It has the 5/8 belts. I know i can get shorter water pumps. What do i do with the distributor and the fan and the generator? would like to keep it mostly stock with minimal non costly changes and will convert to 12 volt. How much will i gain by the front end changes? Dont really want to hack the fire wall and want to use stock tank. Good knowledgeable advice appreciated.
I have 8ba in my 30 Sedan. Fuel pump stand almost touches fire wall so its back as far as it can be. Moved just the radiator forward to clear fan with little plates and longer support rods. It's fine if you don't plan to run a hood and in my opinion it isn't noticeable. Don't know how the spacing is different for 29, but its a start.
I have an 8BA in my '29 coupe. what Wagoon78 said pretty much. Here's what helped me: I run the generator, fan and water pumps all on one belt. I fixed up a fabbed fan mount using Ford stuff and have the generator offset to the right side. If I had to do it again, I would have offset it to the left. Moving to one belt saved about 1 inch for me and made it all work. The fuel pump is pretty close to the firewall but clears. The radiator may be a bit forward (no more than 1/2 inch if that much) and I have clearance between the fan and radiator. Hope the pictures help. Feel free to ask more questions too. Pete
Take good measurements of where your body will sit and allow about two inches for the stock fuel pump from the fire wall and then just move your radiator forward a smidge. It doesn't have to sit exactly center on the cross member. Some guy's have their fuel pumps 1/2" from their fire walls. You don't do anything with your distributor, fan and generator. Leave them in place. There is no reason to move them if you are keeping the motor stock. I moved my radiator forward 3/4" and it's not noticeable at all.
I discovered the same problem you did and went with earlier (59A) front end setup (crank pulley, distributor, pumps and generator. I modified a '54 truck fan pulley and used a Mr. Gasket fan with shortened blades. It currently has 1" fan to rad clearance. Rad is in stock location on the 1930 frame and I didn't have to cut the firewall except that it'll have to have a small removable piece of firewall for access to one head bolt on the passenger side head. It will get the 59A cam and timing gears when I do the engine up. I had to shave some off the backside of the intake to get the "spoon" style gas pedal's cross shaft to clear. Still in the mock-up stage so hence all the missing bolts! Hope this helps! Regards, Dave.
The most economical way would be to modify your firewall so the stock engine sits in there with radiator clearance. No costly mods to the motor.
Aaron D. has it right. You can modify your fire wall or replace your existing fire wall with a recessed fire wall. You can fabricate a recessed piece. I know they make glass pieces never seen a steel one. Sent from my SM-G930T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mine isn't in a 29 but a 30. I heated and dimpled the firewall behind the fuel pump and modified my fan by flattening the fan blades a tad and heated and moved it closer to the engine. The belt runs out of plane but hasn't caused any issues.
I was over at a buddies last night, he has been working on installing an 8BA in his 5 window and had some whiskey going bad so I helped out. He removed the firewall, bought a recessed Bitchin unit. Working on steering column and exhaust now. He wants to run his stock hood so the radiator moving forward was not an option. Only other option was some firewall surgery. I think it is going to turn out pretty cool all said and done. His original intent was to simply relieve that firewall, it got a bit more involved the further he got into it. I think his approach now is the right one. I should get him to join up and post his progress for you.
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