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Projects My rough '28 special coupe build!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 35chevy, Jul 30, 2016.

  1. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I got bit by the Model-A bug a while back so I picked up this car. It is pretty rough but not too far gone. I was told that it was taken apart and has been sitting in this condition since the 80's. Unfortunately, from what I was told, the missing pieces were hauled off for scrap years ago. I'm just saving up parts for it now as I finish some other projects and make room for it in the shop. I picked up a 292 y-block, a 3 deuce intake, and a T5 to go in it. The plan is chopped, 32 rails, 18" and 16" wire wheels, etc. If you guys don't mind, please advise me on who makes the best fitting subrails, subrail extensions, cowl panels, and wood kit. Thanks guys. IMG_2903.JPG IMG_2904.JPG IMG_2901.JPG IMG_2906.JPG IMG_2907.JPG IMG_2909.JPG IMG_2908.JPG
     
  2. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I picked up this container today. I'm going to cut the top off of it and set it up somewhere behind my shop. I'm thinking molasses maybe... I should be able to fit all the body panels in there. IMG_2910.JPG
     
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  3. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,172

    waxhead
    Member
    from West Oz

    Subscribed. What are your plans for the coupe??
     
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  4. I'm in, this'll be cool.
    Great tank for molasses, or citric acid.
    I use molasses, and it works great.
    If I want to strip fast, I use the purple 3M strip discs.
     
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  5. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    As for now, I'm going to try to bring this old body back into shape. I am going to take it apart and soak the panels to remove all the rust. Then, new subrails, cowl panels, fix the bottoms of the door posts, new door bottoms, quarter panel patch panels, new panel below trunk, and get all the wood back in it. As for the long term plan, I want a open fendered, mostly traditional style car. I have seen people modify these cars and turn them into standard coupes with a metal top, but I plan on keeping it a special coupe, with the leatherback top, chop the top, black paint, 32 frame, Y-block engine, 3 carbs, 5-speed trans. I may run 16" wire wheels in the front, and it already has 18's on the rear. The transmission will probably be the only part on it newer than the 50's other than the rearend. I may try to find a early bronco rearend, but I'm undecided on that.
     
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  6. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Subscribed! I have a sport coupe on which I'm trying to fit a special coupe roof...


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  7. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    Subscribed also!!! I have found 2 different threads on special coupes lately. I used Bert's Model A for my wood kit, cowl panels, quarter patches and fender well patches. The cowl panels I got went right in with no problems fitting them in. The wood kit had an excellent fit too. I bought both body wood and top wood from them. I imagine the sub rails they sell are good too. The staff there is always happy to answer questions and will tell you how well the parts fit. On some things they offer two more items and will tell you which ones fit well and which ones do not. Good luck on your coupe. There is a link to my build in my signature below.
     
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  8. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I was actually sitting here reading your build thread... I love the way your car is turning out, and your frame is very nice. That might make me rethink the 32 rails... It looks great! Thanks for the heads up on Bert's, I'll check them out. Honestly, the rust in my car isn't a big deal, it's getting a nice top on it that is worrying me the most. I have to find the panels above the doors, because mine are terrible. From the way it looks, one of them was off the car and sat on the ground and rotted away. Thanks for stopping in, I look forward to talking to you more.
     
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  9. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    I had some patch panels made for those parts. I replaced every thing from the tack strip down above the doors. My parts were at least there and could make a pattern. My friend that made the patches said lots of hours to make complete new ones. I was on a budget and fixed the ones I had. Keep an eye out at swaps and in the classifieds. Maybe run a wanted ad. Bert's may have some original ones. Call and ask. They are in the middle of moving this month so it may take some time. Check on the ford barn too. Tread lightly over there. Those guys are purists.
     
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  10. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,695

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    All the sheet metal except the top pieces are available thru the Model A parts dealers, I've used Snyders Antique Auto with good results. Glad to see people keeping the Special Coupes, I built a 28 ( my avatar) in the mid 90's with a flathead and have a stock 29. I'm building a 30 Sport Coupe with a flathead now, been working on it off and on for years, other projects keep getting in the way.
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    Thanks for the replies. Here's my engine. It's a '59 292 y-block with 113 heads and a Edelbrock 573 intake. I have a truck bellhousing with side mounts and a T5 transmission to go with it. IMG_2912.JPG
     
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  12. Sounds like a fellow HAMB'ers [Rob Lee] car here in Omaha...it's a 1930 with a Y-block. They sound sooo good
    Dodgecruise14robleescoupe.jpg
     
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  13. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    That's a good looking car! Everyone says the Y-block is the best sounding engine ever. I was going to use a flathead, but I decided to use something with a little more power.
     
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  14. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    Hey guys, I haven't posted a update in a while so I thought I'd post a pic of some parts I got in this week. All the parts in the pic were missing other than the roof panels that go over the doors. These roof panels aren't perfect but they are much better than my original panels and can be repaired easily.
    I have a small scale molasses rust removal test going now. I've had the rumble seat hinges soaking for a week in a 9:1 ratio mix of molasses and water. If the results are good, I will clean these parts next. IMG_1120.JPG
     
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  15. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    For those of you who have never used molasses to remove rust, here is my Molasses test. This stuff is nasty, I can't believe the funk growing in just one week. I'll give these rumble seat hinges one more week before I pull them out and see how they look. IMG_1134.JPG
     
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  16. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    Glad to see you found some parts you needed. They look better than the ones I started with. when it comes time to start putting in the wood and so on let me know if I can help with any pics. I did get my coupe on the road for the Hill Climb. I haven't worked on it too much lately but will be starting on the top and interior shortly.

    Waiting in line.jpg
     
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  17. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    Your car looks great. With all this rust, and missing parts, I will definitely need help with some things.
     
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  18. The molasses ain't rocket science.
    Pull those parts out, blast em with a pressure washer, watch in amazement at the rust come off, and because there will probably be some rust left, throw em back in for another week. Repeat process, untill rust a gone, then neutralise with baking soda.
    They flash rust, before your eyes.
    It's all petty easy stuff, and works great.
    I did a bunch of stuff, and never bothered with getting ratios correct. Worked a treat.
     
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  19. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    My small scale molasses test is working great. I am going to go ahead and start building my tank so I can get started soaking body panels this summer. Here are some before and after photos of some pieces I soaked for two weeks.

    16387261_1390457787641182_1435890359623782923_n.jpg 16473499_1390457717641189_7240428595326785868_n.jpg 16406599_1390457714307856_3871201213182847459_n.jpg
    16387987_1390457690974525_7692494327483639656_n.jpg 16426147_1392376794115948_1402189619206045006_n.jpg 16426190_1392376790782615_1770999379571227898_n.jpg 16406569_1392376834115944_8792712425469408093_n.jpg 16473119_1392376837449277_2249171924427627555_n.jpg 16508400_1392376787449282_5629869486742069447_n.jpg 16473777_1392376780782616_2675920900284834812_n.jpg
     
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  20. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member


    I didn't think about needing to neutralize. Thanks for the tip. I used this stuff on these parts and it takes the flash rust off quickly.

    6dfa3a82-2631-469a-ad51-bb6f7c88611f_400.jpg
     
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  21. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,577

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had never thought about neutralise the molasses either ,just pressure wash and dry quickly then treat with a phosphorus rust inhibitor. Etch prime ,then any double skins you can't get to do what ever it takes to get some etch in there using your imagination.
     
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  22. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I saw this cowl and sub-rail section for sale on Facebook, so I made a 5 hour round trip to pick it up last night!
    This cowl is a lot better than the one on the car! I'm happy with this purchase!

    IMG_1608.JPG
    IMG_1604.JPG

    IMG_1607.JPG IMG_1605.JPG

    IMG_1612.JPG
    IMG_1610.JPG

    IMG_1617.JPG IMG_1614.JPG
     
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  23. Doctorterry
    Joined: Sep 12, 2015
    Posts: 686

    Doctorterry
    Member

    Cool build. I've never heard of the molasses thing. You reduce it with water?


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  24. Rusty Karz
    Joined: Feb 11, 2005
    Posts: 299

    Rusty Karz
    Member

    Use hot water about 10 to one. Takes a long time to work but it does work. There are several You Tube videos on this.
     
  25. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I reduce it 10:1. It takes forever, and it stinks something terrible. But, there's almost no work involved. Right now I have a 5 gallon bucket of the stinky stuff brewing. I plan on mixing up enough to do some body panels soon. I picked up some '56 f100 brakes and I put the hubs in the molasses for around 3 weeks. I don't need them right away, so I wasn't in a hurry. There are a few black spots left in some pits, but I wasn't going for perfection on these hubs. It helps if you pull the stuff out and wire brush it every few days and flip the parts around. Leaving them to sit in the same spot for the entire length of time usually leads to some stubborn spots. I just left these and walked away for three weeks. I finished them off with some phosphoric prep and etch. The backing plates go in this week. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2018
  26. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,373

    evintho
    Member

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  27. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I recently picked up some carburetors. I have three ECG carbs, and Three ECG-6 carbs to choose from. I've also spent a little time repairing bolt holes in my intake. They were originally 5/16, but in years past they were drilled to 3/8, then stripped again. I repaired the 3/8 holes with helicoil inserts, and used some Dorman 3/8 to 5/16 studs to keep from opening the holes in the carb bases to 3/8. I drilled a hole on the drill press through some flat stock to help me hold the bit straight, and an old EZ-GO golf cart steering rack spacer made for a perfect tap guide. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  28. 35chevy
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 74

    35chevy
    Member

    I know It has been a while since I posted an update. In May 2018 my shop burned and I lost everything but the shell of this car. The car was sitting right in front of the shop and I almost lost it. I lost some paint off the rear quarter panels and trunk and one of the rear tires was burning when the fire department hosed it down. I lost the Y-block, intake and carbs, all the garnish moldings, the panels above the doors, and several other pieces I had bought for the project. I have spent the time since getting a new shop built and trying to get back in gear. I’ve got the car in the new shop now, and I’ve bought some JW garage 32 rails, Steadfast MFG rear sub rail kit, new rear body panel, several patch panels, more garnish moldings, a pair of 55 291 Deaoto hemi engines, and a complete 40 Ford chassis for the x-member, suspension, and brakes. I’m currently trying to decide on a transmission. I have done some rust removal on a few pieces, and I pulled the body off the frame and pressure washed it inside one out before putting it in the shop. I hope to start posting a few updates soon. It will be slow with trying to finish the shop, and with other projects I have going, but I’m headed in a positive direction!
    EF63786B-965C-4673-B8BF-8E28504BCF9D.jpeg B1047246-ED0B-4BD4-AFE6-E26D4491ACF4.jpeg 16EDCD34-E075-4E9B-9E8F-5EE1D498C770.jpeg 4E7453BE-42F2-47D8-A494-81DE1C944243.jpeg 290E4F23-CD21-4A60-8FBC-6754F1B760A7.jpeg 84BD8585-EE3E-40FA-B778-5E436EA23003.jpeg EE1C73C7-7E0C-4DF6-8746-16AE9B8EA4EC.jpeg EF2A0EC2-078A-4EDA-8B41-C6F79B8F6638.jpeg E411C678-9662-427D-AF96-BD5A5F74A4CD.jpeg 95FE8DB3-433F-44FA-9221-8B1261EA0567.jpeg AE3C8273-4214-484A-8B35-4E07875B07C1.jpeg 5900B22F-4A03-4940-B98D-BA9B4F8BD7DE.jpeg 167DDA9C-66E6-4A6A-AD65-D812D10087AE.jpeg C6B69CF7-BBE0-4225-A2F9-67ACD284DE20.jpeg
    3B892106-4259-479F-AD53-46B076E3AC8D.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2020
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  29. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,752

    The37Kid
    Member

    Just found this thread and was reading along following the progress, WOW! what a shock to see the fire! Hope nobody got hurt, looking forward to the progress. Bob
     
  30. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,349

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Oh my, so, so sorry about the fire. But it sounds like you are well on your way to a nice build. Still subscribed! Gary
     
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