A car that looks like this is probably a better buy than a painted car which may have bondo over rot mine
Oh, what the heck. I’ll shove my oar in. First, I assume you’ve heard the term “the usual rust” applied to a Model A. It refers to rot in the cowl bottoms, doors, wheel wells—essentially the lower 4 inches all the way around. With very few exceptions, every Model A either has it, or had it once and it was repaired. With that in mind, here’s how I regard condition-to-value. These are what I consider going rates—you can do better if you look around and take your time. This isn’t out of a book and I’m no guru—these are just the musings of guy who’s been into these for a while. Level 1: Parts Car. AKA “steaming pile.” Non-running, incomplete with extensive rot and damage beyond "the usual rust." Only a metal magician with lots of time on his hands would try to get it back on the road. Nevertheless, the low price induces a lot of guys to beat their heads against the wall trying (especially if it’s a roadster). 1-2K sedan, 1.5-2.5K coupe. 2-3K roadster. Level 2: Project Car. Mostly complete, has “the usual rust.” May or may not run. All body components need blasting/stripping; some parts may or may not be savable. 2-4K sedan, 3-6K coupe. 4-7K roadster. Level 3: Older Restoration. Entirely complete with some repop parts and funky upgrades. Runs and looks good and even has decent paint. Big issue is how “the usual rust” was fixed. Was it butt welded, lap welded, or mudded up with chicken wire? If the latter, you can bet the repairs have already reached the end of their life expectancy and you’re actually looking at a gussied-up project car. 4-7K Sedan, 7-10K coupe, 8-13K roadster. Level 4: Newer/Proper Build. Everything’s pretty much done and done right. Sky’s the limit. (This level doesn’t exist in my world, so what do I know?) Again, these are what I consider the I-want-it-now values; you can do better if you take your time and get lucky. Your geographic region also affects this. Thanks for the opportunity to bloviate over my morning cup of coffee!
Decide what you want to end up when you finish. Make a spreadsheet showing what it will cost to get there for each car/body. Post it here for comments. Charlie Stephens
If you decide you want to take on one of the "parts cars" that ClarkH described above, let me know. I have some like that I will sell (29 spt cp, 29 tudor, 30 spt cp/cp, 30 pu. And Im just down the road from you.
I got this for $8500. All it needed was a few days of love and new rear shocks and the springs greased. Along with a little wire work. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looking at your plans for it it is either buy a fairly complete car and try to sell off what you don't use or look for a real decent body and maybe pay a bit of a premium for it. As several said, weigh in your skills and talents and if body work is one of them that you are good at a less than perfect body is ok but if you aren't all that adept at body work find the best body you can
Here's some very sage advice from decades of experiences on all kinds of cars. This from my musclecar days, flips, hot rods, restoration stuff, even daily drivers. The single most important thing, DON'T SETTLE FOR SOMETHING. In short order what you want to truly do will become a picture in your mind. Focus on that. "I really want a 30-31 Model A cpe...", then stay the course. Don't buy that 28-9 because it's there, you have the $$$$ and you're tired of looking. If it's a 28-9 you want don't shag that 30-1 for the same reason. A great deal on a Tudor shows up. Again, if it's cheap and you're impatient that day you'll hate it pretty soon and it turns into a money pit mess that never gets done. If it's that cheap and it wasn't out there in the mainstream marketplace by all means buy it, then flip it so you can buy an even better start. Plan on flipping parts and cars to build your stash and funds so you don't have to argue with yourself about that new fridge vs that intake get-up when it comes around. And that was really next, in a matter of months you'll be into a network of like-minded folk that may learn to count on you for parts if you offer good stuff with honest descriptions and fair prices. The car you buy might have stuff that you've no interest in but your needs aren't everyone's. There's always a market for good solid gennie stuff and that goes a long way toward the advice above about buying the best car you can. And at the same time, if it's an A cpe on Deuce rails you want someone's always losing interest or perhaps fallen on hard times and needs someone to buy their Deuce rail project. You're not taking advantage you're giving them needed $$$$ so never "guilt" yourself about a good deal. And don't plan on NEW everything. With a few exceptions a lot of new stuff is fuckin junk. The best stuff $3.00 a day labor can buy (!), and I earned the stones to say that. With some focus on your goal and a veritable 'bible' of info right here you'll learn what's good vs what's shit, what works with what and what to avoid, and even more info than I care to type. This will be another point where patience pays off, and a little logic too. Separate opinion and judgement from technical facts, combine all of it and find the common denominators, ask for pictures and post some of your own. Another thing in the mix, while a fire breathing Hemi/Deuce/Model A cpe will be the curtain call don't be shy about bombing around in a 'banger' for a while. If you bought a runner driver than by all means run it and drive it. It's a ball running around in a stocker. You can always have the frame in process but why the hell not haul your friends and loved ones around in the fun season as you build the rest. Not advocating changing your mind, more like don't go without because you're in the process of the running gear. If you need the jack right away and have to blow it apart and get stuff sold, well that happens. But start with the fenders and boards 1st, move on to other stuff as you go, but don't cripple it until the last moment. The more fun you get from this the better. And worth repeating, indeed BUY THE BEST CAR YOU CAN up front. It makes all that other blather I threw at you work itself out. This can be a job or an adventure, or a rewarding mix of both. Good luck, and if you get something and don't show us you're just a dick...
The pricing I see is around 4000.00 to 8000.00 for a good project car. And never settle for junk or something that is botched up. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
the one thing I can ad to this is, if you plan to sell off any parts you don't use remember that junk parts just will not sell. I planned to sell off fenders and stuff....no good no body wants junky rusty parts. Must be that the aftermarket and other original parts just make junky parts have no value. Lesson learned.
I would much rather have original parts with a little rust or dents instead of repro stuff that doesn't fit. I spent just a much time fitting a repro pair of '28 A side splash aprons as it took to restore the original front fenders.
So this may seem like a silly question, but what are the real differences between the 28-29 and 30-31 coupes? I've never really looked closely, I just know that most if the ones I like are 30 or 31s. Sent from my SM-G935V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Biggest physical difference is the cowl area and the beltline that goes around the car- google up some pics and it should be pretty obvious; 1- '28-9 2- 30-31 ( personal choice- I've had 4 of them)
Geez.......? Yeah, I have a technical question.....? How long is a piece of string.... about the same logic to my simple mind..!!!
a Model A can cost as little or as much as you want it to, and what will work with your check book.. that's what I am gettin' at.. buy the best you can afford.. I have one I won't sell for $20,000. paid less than 10, a year ago..
Yup, roof and cowl. To restoration folk there's other changes like the firewalls, gauge panels, etc. If fenders won't be used it doesn't matter but they're different too. 30-31 are sleeker, more sweeping, 28-29 are rounded and follow closer to the tire. Both have their fine points, but as a hot rod I almost prefer the 28-29 roadster over the 30-31, in a coupe the 30-31. It won't hurt to bone up on the differences as stock cars so you know what you're offering when you sell off what you don't need. Our cousin site: www.fordbarn.com There's an A section both in the classifieds and general discussion sections. Lots to learn there and worth your time. Enjoy...
Yes, if you are true A aficionado you will want a copy of Henry's Lady. Probably long out of print, but check Amazon. Also, if you can handle a project and a little welding, you should check out Corn Fed's stash. He is probably being a little harsh on the condition of his bodies.
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