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Technical Bad brakes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Steve20, Jan 14, 2017.

  1. Steve20
    Joined: Jan 14, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Steve20

    Looking for some advice. I have a 31 Model A Tudor Sedan and I'm having brake issues again. I drove the car for two years after the initial build with no problems. When removing it from Storage I found the pedal "soft" after some pumping of the pedal it improved for awhile. I ended up replacing the manual Master Cylinder and that fixed the problem for that season. At the beginning of this past season the problem returned. I have re bled the brakes several times which helps for a short while but now after the car sits a few weeks the problem returns (no brakes) All the fittings are dry and the reservoir is always full. Could I have another bad Master Cylinder or am I missing something?? And what could cause this failure??! Please help. Any advice would be appreciated
     
  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Had that same problem with my 48 every time I let it sit for several months. I never narrowed it down to brake fluid or brake cylinder cups so I don't have a specific answer on which but it happened a number of times over the years when the truck sat up for a while.
    I'm not down as a fan of synthetic brake fluid but the other selling point after not eating paint or plastic on the Corvettes and Fieros that it was used in from the factory was that it was good for long term storage of said vehicles with the sporty car owners that put their toys away when the leaves turned brown and didn't bring them out until the flowers basked in the sunshine.
     
  3. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,354

    chevyfordman
    Member

    I had the same problem with a 48 Chevy coupe, narrowed it down to a very small leak, only way I found it was by putting pressure on the system until the one drop showed up at a slightly loose fitting. That took a few years to find as I was always bleeding with a vacuum bleeder and the leak just wouldn't show up. And I'm talking about only one small drop finally appearing. Also make sure that your rear shoes are adjusted up good. Good luck
     
  4. Steve20
    Joined: Jan 14, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Steve20

    Thanks for the reply. My problem seams to show up very shortly after bleeding. Seams to be getting worse all the time. I would of thought if there was a leak it would be noticeable but I'll take a closer look. Hopefully something shows up. Thanks again



    Sent from my STV100-3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

  5. Steve20
    Joined: Jan 14, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Steve20

    Thanks for the reply. It's very frustrating. I'll check out the synthetic option

    Sent from my STV100-3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  6. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,177

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    No to synthetic for your system - possibly hose(s) collapsed inside

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  7. Steve20
    Joined: Jan 14, 2017
    Posts: 15

    Steve20

    Thanks for that info. Much appreciated

    Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk
     
  8. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,291

    jnaki

    Hello Steve,
    When I had my first 40 Ford Sedan Delivery, it ran great and stopped well. But, after driving it for a week, it began to show signs similar to yours. (this delivery had a 348 in it and was street raced every chance the previous owner had. When i bought it, it had a flathead and a 3 speed LaSalle) I checked everything and it looked like an old used system, but had no leaks. At rest, everything seemed to work well. My brother suggested that I replace the brake shoes/springs on all 4 wheels. I did this and it still was soft and springy. A local brake shop suggested that I have the drums "trued." He assured me that a new surface would make the stops so much better. I watched him true the insides on his machine.

    After this was done, I could not believe how much better the delivery stopped every time I stepped on the brakes. The brake guy checked everything after I went around the block. No leaks, no rubbing, stops quickly, what more could I ask for in this old sedan delivery? The brake guy said that new shoes by themselves don't always do the trick, they had to be lined up with a clean smooth surface.

    When I first had some early disc brakes on another car years later, a different brake guy said that I had to have my discs "trued" to match the new pad and give the pads a new gripping surface. Since I had the 60's experience, I had this new guy do the same on the smooth disc. Again, it worked well for thousands of miles. Just a different outlook and result. YRMV
    Jnaki
     
  9. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There should not be any pedal loss during storage. This indicates a problem and should not be tolerated. More info/history on your system would be helpful.
    Make sure the pedal fully retracts, (allowing the master to fully retract) and with it's own return spring, with about 1/16" push rod clearance.
    Internal or 10 lb external residual is needed if drums are older than mid '70s. A 2 lb valve is usually needed for calipers located above a low mounted master cylinder.
    Clean all fittings and connections with isopropyl or denatured alcohol and check carefully for leaks by standing on the pedal.
    A good bleed is very important. Make sure the pedal can fully stroke the master before bottoming out on the floor. VERY important!
    Make sure any drum brakes are in good condition and adjusted properly. If front discs, make sure the calipers do not contact any suspension components when the wheels are turned fully each direction.
    That ought to keep you busy for awhile! :)
     
  10. bigalturk1
    Joined: Sep 23, 2010
    Posts: 367

    bigalturk1
    Member

    As you may know, the residual valves for a master cylinder mounted beneath the floor are 2 pounds for Disc & 10 pounds pressure for Drum brakes, a friend had a rear (10lb.) go bad on his 40' Ford
    (Hardly used). He swapped it for a new one & it omitted his problem... I would have never guessed!
     

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