Anytime.. the numbers will be on the drivers side don't grind the paint use sand paper to find them they were only stamped in by hand and if it was later in the week or the guy was feeling lazy they won't be deep. It should start with A........ if you get me the numbers I can look it up and tell you year and month it was made. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ok. I must be wrong or just dumb luck that all the frames I have looked at and worked on had them "15-20" of them.. with my 3 model As when I bought them the DMV vin paperwork was the same number as the frame. Just seams odd that if it was the motor number and you change motors you then have to go back to change the registration. Maybe the motor number and frame numbers were the same, and the frames that were not stamped was a bad day at work for someone. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Scott, the s/n will be located just behind the drivers side front body mount. Model A engine # were stamped into the frames after assembly and before the bodys were installed.. Good luck with the numbers hunt. ........... Jack
Looks like a great project and I'll be watching for sure. That front backing plate looks like a Chev item to me. Here's a photo of a 1936 one for comparison... Here's a closer shot of the backing plate... It looks like a close match to me. Glen.
That must of been done on a friday! Or he was hung over.. is that all you can find? The star is the end.. So what year is your cowl? Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have 2 Model A frames. Neither one has stamped numbers. I also have a 40 Ford frame that is clearly stamped on the drivers side near the front cross member. Joe
So from what I can see in the photos the first one looks like a 48-52 box and the second is a 53-55. This can be done with any ford box pre 30s-55. Maybe other then ford but I'm only a ford guy on old stuff like this. They do make new ones you can find them in speedway and other places but you'll pay some money. If so see any old car pics or racing where the steering comes out the side that's what they did. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You're welcome. Yes they sure look similar. Mine don't have that spring around the drum that can be seen in your last photo where your thumb is touching. As I mentioned, mine are 1936 chev which were the first of the juice brakes for Chev. It's also the only year that the 5 x 108 (5 x 4.25) PCD was used… apparently. So if your stud circle measures that, you've got '36 Chev drums. Glen.
Looks like to me you have your work cut out for this, but I am sure you will work it out....Welcome to the HAMB
The vin number is located on the driver side top of the frame near the hole where the cowl mounts Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have never personally seen a Model A frame without a serial number. Ford started stamping the numbers on the frame in late 1926 on T's. The engines were stamped 1st and when it was installed in the frame that same engine number got stamped on the frame, but not always in exactly the same spot. On Model A frames it can be anywhere from just in front of the cowl to about where the driver's seat would be, on top of the left frame rail. Nearly all are hidden by the splash apron and/or body. Then rust does it's damage and they get real difficult to see some times. It should start with a "star" then A***** then a "star" at the end.
The state of Florida does go by engine numbers, although you may be able to get a law enforcement officer, DMV personnel, or a notary to sign off on frame numbers if they are there. The easiest for you if no frame numbers, is to get a model A engine in there and have the above mentioned people come out and sign the paperwork that states confirmation of the engine numbers. After that, apply for title and register the car. After you receive the title you can fill out another form changing the model A engine numbers to a new motor number. I did not have a model A engine or frame numbers on mine. I ended up having to sue the state of Florida to issue me a VIN #. Kinda spendy!
Now that I'm home, the form for motor change is HSMV 82103 and the VIN verification form is HSMV 82042.
Your frame rails look pretty good to me. One looks like it has kink in it but that can be pulled back into shape. Model A frames are not straight front to back, they "open up" between the middle and rear x-member. Please do not cut it up for welding practice. There are many gearheads who would gladly take that frame off your hands (even give you money) and build a car with it. Any model A frame with almost legible numbers is worth something. Good luck on your build, Ron
Hey Lake, first off- I would stick with a steel frame. The 2x4 fir frame is too flexible! The radius rods are hollow the whole length, both front and rear
The ends of the rods, both ends, are sleeved then the perimeter is welded. Those are wide fives. 35-39 Ford car
Thanx for the correction, Mike. Lake, a lot of people run 40 brakes with wide fives including me. The drums are the difference. 36-39 drums have wide bolt pattern then 40 up smaller pattern. Most like 40 style so the wide five stuff is relatively cheap still.
I got round back spindles at the swap meet. Everything just bolted up. There are square back spindles that fit too but I don't know the difference or the years they switched
36 to 39 rear drums work with 39-48 backing plates. 37 to 39 front drums work with 39-48 backing plates. 36 spindles and front hubs are a one year only thing IIRC. They are a bit longer. I think the 36's stand out because they are finned. You COULD run them by either converting the 36 plates to juice OR finding some unobtanium Lincoln plates (not the common repops). Best thing to do with them is find someone who needs them for their stocker or gowjob. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/36-ford-wide-five-drums.299669/
On the subject of Model A rear rods: they are most likely too weak to handle the Ford 300 and an open drive. You will probably want to get a later set of bones and run a torque arm or a ladder bar type setup. When I was originally starting my build, I had a 300/3.03 to a 47 ford truck rear with reversed passenger car bells. I used a C4 vette drive shaft to tie it together.
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