History Quick Change Information

Thanx,

Do you know where they were made or anything else about the company?

Bruce

 

Jamie is in Balm Fl.
Close to Riverview.
He still rebuilds,fixs rearends of all kinds.
Splines axles etc.
He does not do computers,does not have a website.
He does work everyday.
I have his contact info,email me for it [email protected]

 

Thanx Randy,

I have talked to Jamie in the past. I will be contacting him, again. I hate to interupt his day with my stuff, but I do need to set up a time that we can talk.

I shoulda gone to FL this Winter. Coulda fixed my suntan and gotten more book info. I wonder if I could write that off as a business trip?

Bruce

 

Pat Warren,, Have Hailbrand Blue prints somewhere as well

 

Not sure if this is an actual quick-change, or just a cosmetic cover. It does seem to have a fill plug. Didn't think to check for driveshaft location at the time. It was at the '09 Pileup. I think it has become a well known car as a fake patina build, not an actual survivor.

 

Thanx Joe! I forgot that you had posted until I saw Randy's response.

I'll be getting in touch with Jamie as soon as I have time to jot down all the questions I have for him.

 

Real or Fake? From what little I can see, I think the cover bolts on through the side bell. My guess is Fake, but what do I know?

Anyone else?

Now, if it is fake, is it traditional fake or OT fake?

 

Fake-O because we can't see the input shaft down low at the front of the banjo.

 

Thanks for posting the brochure, we are in the process of repairing a V/8 Pat Warren rearend. The "live axle" unit is what we are putting together, and are looking for sideplates and what I think is a 1 1/2" axle.

 

Just putting feelers out. I have a decent Frankland finned rear cover and am looking for a Supercover, the wide one with more capacity for our Bonneville car. TIA Trent

 

Need some quick help!!!!!!!! I am in town and my Bells are at home. What size are the fasteners that hold the side bells on? For a Frankland Champ.

 

Early ones were 3/8" later 7/16"
6" long

 

What is the proper way to measure and setup the double splined axles for a quickchange with a differential? I'm used to the old truck style axles that you can just bolt in, and they stay where you put "em, but there must be some sort of locking bolt arrangement to keep the double splined axles apart...maybe I just answered my own question, but I'd like to get it right...Thanks.

 

Should be nothing to measure and set-up unless you have something abnormal that you are working with.
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The single bearing should be pressed on to the axle shaft, the shaft inserted in the axle housing to seat in the bearing housing bore, and a retainer and seal holder bolted to the flange on the axle housing to capture the bearing.
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Presumably you have a splined hub that goes on the axle, with a seal surface on the OD, that is retained by a nut. The hub will butt to the inner race of the bearing and the axles will &#8220;stay where you put them&#8221;.

 

Thanks for the reply, these axles have splines on each end, (look like a torsion bar), 31 spline to the diff, and 24 spline to the drive plate that bolts to the full floating hub...I don't think they should butt up inside the diff, hence a locking spacer bolt? Should have clarified these are full floating truck style hubs.

 

Put me in line for the book, please, and I hope it includes engineering drawings, photos of the shops and machinery used to make these devices, and good biographical information. This is the best history thread here in a long time, and thank you for all of your good work.

 

Ah, so

There must be some provision to lock the shafts to the drive plates.

Pictures and/or what is this out of?

 

I'm using a Highland quick change out of an early modified which used the old Ford truck axles, changed out the old legs, almost 40 pounds each, and the axles, maybe 15 pounds each, for lighter modern tubes, and will get gundrilled axles as soon as I can measure things up. Probably will be 80 pounds lighter when its done.

 

Hugh, The aftermarket full floating axles come with a 7/16 tapped hole tapped in each end. On the inside you install a bolt and lock nut, that way you can adjust the end play and keep the axle in the drive plate. This one is 31/24 spline. I would buy from Lefthander or Coleman.

 

Thanks Marty, That's what I guessed, so I can deduct the bolt length when measuring and get it right. Built cars from scratch that were less work than this quickchange.

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Marty, I think I was a generation two back on that one. Thanks for setting it straight.

 

Marty beat me to it. That is the correct way to do it. You can put bolts in one or both axles. Someone once told me to round the corners on the bolt heads so they couldn't catch and unscrew. Seemed like a good idea and I've done it that way ever since. Never had one back out.

Total end clearance should be about 1/16", pushing both axles against one side plate and measuring from the flange to the axle shaft.

 

Bruce,
Do you have any experience with the new Winters V/8 unit? We are using one in this Bonneville Roadster I am building. I hope it will hold up to a blown flathead and even more power down the road.

 

Thanks for the info guys...looks like a neat project Marty.

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Marty,
Not exactly. We used a Winters Midget rear in a late model with floater axles etc. It held up to 600 H.P. okay. Went back to a 3/4 ton unit because nobody else was using 6 spline gears.

I would bet that the V8 unit will hold up just fine in a salt flats type car. There just aren't the shock loads.

One of my friends ran a 230 mph Camaro with a Vega rear end. Never had a lick of trouble with that.

 

I do have sidebells, but they are Jones magnesiums. Got the set up from a roundy rounder. Frankland rebuilt it for me- I kept the Winters spool in it. Will pick some gears for the back after it's installed in the Falcon gasser -rick

 

I kow when it sold in 2002 the Indy car had the original Offy in it. The Camp was his only one, His Driver was a rookie and wouldn't listen to Ted. He was hell bent on Being top Qualifier at Indy. Ted told him he would have no trouble qualifying, and that's all he wanted, to save it for the race. The driver crashed it into the wall qualifying. Ted swore if anyone ever got hurt in one of his cars he would stop racing and he did 26 years.

 

Was searching for some more info on the HEMI QC, found this: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/hemi-rear-end-230554.html It says it used a Dana 70 R&P, and HEMI stood for Harrison Engineering and Marine Improvements.

 

Levie is my grandpa I'm Levie Jones the second.
I don't know much about quickchanges but my dad does. He helped in the machine shop.