Was watching on YouTube and a guy suggested using bar soap (bath soap) to lubricate metal cutting bandsaw blades - he even said it could used on milling cutters, drill bits, etc. I don't mind using liquid (Mystic Metal Mover) on the lathe, drill press, mill even the horizontal bandsaw; but don't really want the mess on the vertical bandsaw. Has anyone heard of such a thing? Could it be that easy??? Thanks
Beeswax sticks have been used for years....particularly in cutting aluminum. What you don't want is a cutting oil which may soften the rubber bands on the bandsaw's wheels. Any case...what could it hurt to try the soap?
I just use 3 in 1 oil and have for many years,never tried soap but what would it hurt to give it try. HRP
DoAll Tool Saver Tube http://www.dgisupply.com/product/RAM4000001/?tracking=|searchterm:DoALL A bar of soap is better than nothing. This stuff is great.
I don't know if lubrication is the best term, but the idea is to keep the chips from clogging the blade. Do All tool saver or other brands will work. Then soap is a similar type of substance that I think would work and maybe cheaper and easier to find.
I swear by this product. Bandsaw blades last several times longer and it's not messy. Super easy to use. http://nikxstikx.com/ns/NIKX_STIKX__HOME_.html
I keep a spray can of lubricant by my band saw, and give it a shot every once in a while if it is getting hot.
Those "sticks" look like the ticket... While reading about some similar products they said they could be used on belt and disc sanders...does that ring a bell with anyone or was I maybe reading about woodworking applications??
Please excuse the thread hi-jack but I need some info from guys with more knowledge than I have with bandsaws... I am restricted to about 218 SFPM on my saw.. ( This is the slowest speed that I can get). What .500 wide bi-metal blade configuration would you guys recommend for cutting steel from 16 ga. up to approx. 3/16" thick ?? ( Misc brackets & patch panels, etc ). I am having trouble with blade life .. Again ..Please excuse the Hi-Jack..... Bob..
Yep ' Beeswax ' stick in a round cardboard tube is the hot ticket and use it on your belt sander belt too, they last forever DND
The way I understand it is you need "x" number of teeth in contact with the metal, so the tpi will depend on the thickness of the metal. From what I've read the thinner sheetmetal (i.e. 16 gauge) can wear blades quickly (breaking teeth off the blade from using too few tpi) Sorry this is no answer, but there is a "formula" of sorts for choosing a blade based on what you plan to cut...
Hi Grey Be sure you go to a hi quality blade shop and buy the good stuff, as the cheapy's flame out real quick Ask the man what he recommends for the type of metal you are cutting My saw is set up for alum only at hi speed using 6 tooth blade can cut 1" thick 7075 like butter DND
A lot of this is just trial & error with your saw and the materials you are cutting, you will know when all is well as it just feels right DND
I worked in one shop that had a Doall with a spray mist set up on it. We cut a lot of hard steels there.
I saw one of the episodes of Stacy David's show recently, and he mentioned about using a bar of soap on the tools when working with aluminum. I didn't think about it much at the time, but there may be something to it.
I have used soap on my bandsaw. Course i havent used it much and have only used soap, but it seemed to be working well. Cut some 1" plate with it.
Lube: Lenox also makes their own version of wax tube for hobbyists. In regards to Gray Ford's question, you didn't tell us what saw you have, speed sounds good. If your saw is set up right, tension is right, you are selecting proper blades, you are cutting at the correct rate and using lube you should get decent life from any decent bi metal blade. For a constant pitch blades you need more tpi (like 24-32 tpi for 3/8" to 1/16" steel) For a variable pitch you could drop to 10/14 or 14/18 I have a both a horizontal saw and an old vertical metal cutting band saw, both happen to use standard 44 7/8" blades, so to keep life simple and repeatable (on any given Sunday afternoon), I just buy Milwaukee 2 pack rakers at the Depot, or even bimetal blades from HF, which are ten times better. If you want better blades, or you need a size that local stores aren't going to stock, you could order Lenox or Starretts, or even more expensive blades from a place like MSCdirect.com, they can weld custom sizes for you as well as stocking common sizes. A lot of metal worker really dig Lenox. If your cutting more sheet metal than bar or tube you might want to try some higher tpi blades, then drop for thicker stuff. I've gotten hundreds and hundreds of cuts through 3/8's steel with the $26 "made in the USA" blades that HF sells, with cutting oil. I think it's an 14/18 variable pitch.
We used those for years in a trailer shop cutting large rec tubeing.Dramaticly extends the life of your blades and will quiet it down somewhat if you're cutting light material.And it's cheap Sent from my SM-G930W8 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I ran the toolroom in a mfg. company for many years we bought the Doall stick by the box. Most all the brands will work I'm sure.
Your manual may differ, bit on some metal cutting bandsaws .004" deflection with your finger on the middle of the blade. In other words, super tight (if you play guitar, go up two octaves). I know with my saw because any tighter and the blade won't move. It's also important to have the guides tight to keep the blade from deflecting. Woodworking blades just snap at that kind of tension. These things need to be tuned just right or it creates all sorts of problems. What kind of saw do you have?
MSC is where I buy all of my blades. HUGE inventory and good prices. You should call them to discuss your needs. .
My Ellis miter saw manual states to positively do not use lubricates. I have found no problem with not using any lubes. The blade does have a wire wheel to keep the blade clean.
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