Customs 1935 Ford 5 Window Coupe Sheet Metal Question

Hello there

I have aquired a 1935 Ford 5 Window coupe Running and Driving
The Body has been channeled the width of the frame and It does not have front / rear fenders / running boards/ hood or grille/
it has a dropped front axle in front

here are my questions and concerns

1) would the stock sheet metal bolt on and clear with the current channel (width of the frame)
2) I understand that 1936 parts would work on a 35 so long as i stick to ALL 35 parts... is this correct?
3) i want to make it a tail dragger and bring the front up / would this help in clearing the sheet metal?


well thats just about it

any help would be appreciated

Im sure someone here with a 1935 / 1936 would be able to provide first hand knowledge


thanks
jason


i posted this on the Hamb /
I posted wanted ads here and the hamb

have trade or cash for correct parts IF this will work

thanks
jason

 

You sure its channeled? in 35 the body fits over the frame from the factory. you might just have a car that needs all the fenders and such...

 

Front fenders and running boards bolt to tthe frame. If you want to run fenders and have the hood line up then you will have to raise the body up unless you get creative with the mounts. Doubt lifting the front of the body will help because of the running boards. I am currently unchanneling my 35 coupe.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Body chanelled to width of frame

 

To answer your questions;
1. NO
2. You use all 35 fenders, grill, hood, and all related parts or all 36 fenders, grill, hood, and all related parts.
3. NO
You could maybe add hood tops?

 

Does anyone know of a 1935/36 Coupe that is channeled width of frame but still retains stock fenders / Running boards/ Hood/Grille?

I appreciate the help

 

You must not believe Johnboy 34?
If frame is usable buy a floor and Firewall (or add to bottom of Firewall) and put body where it belongs THAN build to suit.......................................

 

Excellent
I appreciate the advice

Im gonna focus on getting the sheet metal parts
mock everything up
and let the car help line things up

 

This will be interesting considering front and rear fenders bolt to running boards and running boards bolt to side of frame where your body is now. If you get passed that than you can tackle the front sheet metal & radiator area where ALL your front sheet metal gaps line up not to mention you will need a shorter radiator, shorter front fender/headlight brackets, etc. etc.................................................

 

Now this is what i was looking for
Thank You

 

If you really like the info and not being facetious, there's a little "like button" to the right! I need all I can get! There like old Green Stamps, you can trade them in at the HAMB store for valuable HAMB gifts!

 

And that's if the fenders aren't sitting on the tires.

 

And bottom of the grill dragging the Earth....................................

 

First photo gives you a rough idea how the front fenders and running boards attach in the stock location.
Second photo is a stock floor sitting in its proper locations on the stock frame.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I dunno, if you like it channeled and fender-less, leave it alone (although some may argue that fat fendered body wants fenders), and be happy. If you want fenders, it might be better from a $$ standpoint, and time, to sell it and buy a non channeled car and build it. Quicker, less money, less hassle. Not to say you couldn't un-channel it, but, man, it could turn into a headache.

 

Are you sure it is a 35 ? The X stamping on the sides of the cowl, just ahead of the doors, generally indicates a 36 body. The 35 was smooth. Not sure this was all the bodies or may have been a mid year production change.

 

It wouldn't be too hard to block the body up a couple inches if you had too.

 

Interesting
Anybody know if this is a 35 or 36??

 

Love the idea
Anyone opposed to this possible solution?

 

Buying all the front end pieces is going to cost a pretty penny even if you went glass front fenders over metal ones.
Hood top and sides and all hardware
Grill
Grill under garments
Radiator
All front brackets to mount front sheet metal
2 inner fender panels
If you 36 you have 2 horn panels between fender and grill
Headlights & stands
A few more things I have forgotten
And that's just the front, in the rear you need rear fenders
Inner quarter panels
Tail lights & stands
All sort of little brackets
Running boards
Point is your gonna have some serious coin in making it a Custom '36, it will be a cobbled mess if body is not mounted on frame properly not to mention the floor space that will be missing. It's hard enough getting things to line up properly mounted let alone "lifted". Do a search on E-Bay or ask around for a full floor and do it rite. It will be worth more to you and others done the rite way. JMO

 

My '35 has the X stampings and I know of others that also have them.

 

Couple things I think were not mentioned so far. Hard to tell; but it looks like your motor may be mounted a little forward to play nice with stock radiator location. It has to be pretty tight to the firewall on a '35. You may have to undo some of the current lowering, especially the front. With a dropped axle I have pretty minimum grille to ground clearance, no way it could be dropped the amount of your channel. Like any of these projects, it could be done; but it's up to you to figure out if it is worthwhile and if you have the skill to pull it off. Here's some more pictures of the inner fender panel and grille fit to frame along with some engine to firewall shots to help you consider those aspects of the project.

 

All 36 bodies have three hood rubbers on side cowl do they not?

 

Here's one that is partially fendered and chanelled if that helps.

 

I happen to like channeled cars. Have not seen a channeled 36 before but most Fords of the 30s and 40s have been channeled.

If you want the full fendered look you will have to modify the front end and rear fenders to fit.

Another idea is to go full hot rod, make your own grille and fenders. This would be easier and cheaper than modifying stock parts.

Rear fenders will need to be raised and fitted to the body. You could use any suitable late 30s fenders as they will have to be modified.

For the front you could do something like this.



or this


or this