So I pulled the gen last night and took a little saw blade like I was advised and cut into the notches on the copper plates that the brushes ride on the commutator?? Still working on terminology. Then took oooo steel wool to the copper and got it to a nice bright finish, threw it all back together and in the car. Now my question is where do I stick the voltmeter to test its ouput? I've been poking all over the place and all my readings are like 6v at 2k. Amp meter is showing just a little before 12 o'clock so maybe a hot lead has run to ground and shedding some power? Any thoughts would be amazing!
Right at the battery posts is a good place then you are testing the whole system. MAKE SURE to get the polarity of your meter leads correct way around. Neg black to neg post, Red to pos post. I don't know specifically for your Hudson but on SOME old makes you have to "Flash the coils" (google it) to get a taken apart generator to generate.
Uh, if stock your car is 6 volt and Positive, not negative ground. Don't cross polarities or you will burn out the regulator
Always loved these ! Tops of the rear fenders always reminded me of the '53 Olds 88's. Neat rare rides for sure. Thanks for sharing this...and preserving this one from the ubiquitous "crusher" ! Jonnie www.legends.thewwbc.net
So I got a better voltmeter and it's showing 7 volts coming out of the generator so I think I polarized it properly! Thanks guys! And those old pictures are awesome. I'd love to see one of those cop cars they mention
So I've also been rebuilding sections of the harness as I go along. The cloth wire is really frayed in some areas and I worry about arcing and burning the car down as well as having shorts
I got a lead on some bullet connectors from ynz for .30 and they have cloth wire so now I'm not sure if I should redo what I've done so far in cloth or just keep the modern jacketed wire. Would it affect the value of the car?
My car is getting all new wire too. But I would rather wire it with modern wire than use that old style stuff. Most of the wire will be covered, be it electrical tape or convoluted tubing, so I really would rather have reliability, than oem appearance. If you restore it to concours condition, then use the old style stuff. YnZ is good for all the old components. Also, your car probably does not have turn signals, so you will need to add wires to the front parking lights. The back stop lights are already separated for turn signals.
I'm actually fortunate enough to have turn signals! The left one flashes nicely but the right one doesn't so I just have to flick the switch up and down. And yeah I was just turned into ynz and the price for the tips I need you can't beat it.
I just put signal lights on the 51 HenryJ and when I was working on the cloth wires they were falling apart inside the sockets etc. I used some old dual wire socket inserts and bought one to finish up. Quite a bit of the insulation is failing so I will start to replace it. The car came with the same button connectors.
Yeah theyre super brittle! And then when I cut the plastic wrap around the looms the wires look like new.
Thanks, I helped my best friend build it for his twin brother about 20 years ago both Vietnam Marine vets. The twin that owned it lived in Fla and had to come to the Norman a few times a year for postal training so he just kept it here in Oklahoma. He was at a rod run doing burnouts and threw the drive line. He had it at a shop in OKC and someone smashed out all the windows. I could not see it sitting outside and rotting so I went and picked it up. He never made it to come and fix it and my finances never had the extra cash to buy the glass and have it installed. Last year he sent me the title and told me it was mine because I had saved it from rotting to the ground and his health isn't very good and probably will never make it back to Oklahoma. I am still holding out hope he gets better and comes back and claims it. I tell him that a few times a year. I have fixed the drive line and it has a throttle body chevy v6 and a Mustang 2 front end under it. We also narrowed a 9 inch in the rear.
That's an awesome story, I was wondering what happened to the glass, that sucks! well at least you're looking after it so the earth doesn't reclaim it. And it's too bad the cars so far away I work for a glazing contractor and we cut a little glass on the side
The front end looks Jet -- but it's a 2-door. Aero Willys? Gary Reynolds posted this over on the "Vintage Pics" thread. Isn't that a Jet on the end?[/QUOTE]
Don't know if the 308 would fit. The 202 takes up all the room as far as length. If 308 is only an inch or two longer, it might fit.
And I know I've mentioned charging issues before but it's still not working right. Last weekend drove it like 20 something miles turned it off and restarted it twice. But today drove it like 5 miles to the store and back and it was totally dead. Just wondering if the voltage regulator should have a wire coming off it going to the battery? Or perhaps the charge travels through the ammeter?
Well you do have a point there, that car is really badass. I pushed the firewall back in my datsun truck so I could get a 350 in it. Fair amount of work and planning which I wouldn't wanna do to the old girl. Although I have put a lot of thought into turbo charging the flathead due to the low compression it has and the convenient location of the exhaust manifold flange. Plus at 2 or 3 lbs wouldn't need a inter cooler I don't think.
Coupes were made in 53. I am working on one at the present time. #2C264598 When putting a 308 in the Jet, the firewall must be modified. They used the firewall out of a Wasp to make it look factory. When you put a 308 in , you are adding a lot of weight. Add a dual range hydro, and you are talking even more wt. LHud
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