Hot Rods Adding antifreeze to a non-running car???

Hi guys, I have the carb torn apart on my 390 Galaxie, so I cant start it. Temp is supposed to drop down -15 or so. I had water in it but, drained, added 1 gallon of antifreeze and let it run for 15 minutes back in the fall. Not sure how cold it is set for, but would like to add some more. Could I disconnect the belt on the water pump and turn it with a drill? There is no thermostat. I know it will be a PIA to get in there with the radiator in the way but I have a 90 degree attachment for my drill that might work.

 

Just like a steer ... All you can do is try
There won't be any heat in the engine to the the thermal flow to the water pump so it may take a long time to circulate.

 

Could use a cheap hf drill pump. Think they have them for a few bucks usually.

 

I thought I could make up an adapter that could bolt on where the fan goes and give it a spin. Might take me 20 minutes, but that's Ok.

 

Where would you hook it? In the heater lines? I had a problem with it pushing water out the overflow in the expansion tank until I found out that it was not supposed to be full of coolant. If I take the cap off you cant even see any coolant. Radiator doesn't have a cap. I suppose I could drain some out in a cup and test it that way.

 

Can you drain the block on it?

 

Not sure there are any drains I can get to.

 

Does a 390 have pipe plugs at the very bottom of the water jacket on each side? If they're not stuck (unlikely) you could drain it. Or if it's one of those 2100 motorcraft 2barrels spend about 15 minutes and put it together and bolt it on if the car will run otherwise.

 

Loosen at bottom rad hose, drain, mix stronger solution and refill.

 

Nope it not a 2100, Its a Holley 650, but its need a rebuild. Got to be away to do it with running the engine. My dad use to have a hot water hookup for his Dump truck. He had quick connect hydraulic fittings in the his pickup and on the 350 Cummins. Would start up the pick up and let it pump the warm coolant through the big truck. Worked pretty good. Lot cheaper than leaving it plugged in all night or using three cans of ether.

 

Don't forget to remove the thermostat if you try it. Otherwise the coolant won't circulate.

 

That's not going to get it in the block.

 

No thermostat...never put it in.

 

Buy a oil heater that fits into the dipstick hole.

 

How about a heat lamp

 

Diesel block heater from local auto supply?

 

If there is no way to get your carb to run for 20 minutes maybe you could borrow one from a buddy?

 

How hard would it be to replace one of the freeze plugs on each side?

Knock out the freeze plug and no more water.

 

50-50 water-antifreeze mix protects down to 40 below. A gallon of antifreeze in your car should be that strong or stronger even if there was pure water in it before. Nothing more is necessary. If you want to top it up use 50-50 water-antifreeze mix. It won't make any difference if you start the engine or not. You are already protected by the antifreeze you put in before.

I am taking into consideration that Utica New York can get pretty cold.

 

If there is any doubt in your mind drain the rad by the drain plug, valve, or by disconnecting the bottom rad hose. On old cars the plug or valve is usually seized up and it is easier to pull the rad hose. Or just drain off enough to test.

 

When I put the antifreeze in months ago I figured would be ok. But I have quite a bit of money in this engine and don't want to hurt it. I picked up a dipstick oil heater at Tractor Supply tonight and stuck it in. That should add some heat to it. According the what I found it had a 20 at. Coo

 

Sorry bout that. Sent before I finished. 20 quart system stock but I have went to a three core aluminum radiator instead of the 4 core. So maybe a 16 quart system. 4 quarts of pure antifreeze should provide a 25/75. Maybe -20?

 

Couldn't you just stick a hydrometer in the coolant and test it? Maybe it's OK as is.

 

I think if you have some antifreeze in it it would at worst case get a little slush in it.
But if you want to add more drain it down add more and make you a drive for a pulley for your drill and put a belt on it and spin your pump.

 

You'll be surprised on how much water is actually inside the engine.

 

Great idea. Pulley on my drill.

 

If you want to get anti freeze into the motor open up the T stat housing, pull the stat if it has one and fill the block with anti freeze there. A gallon unmixed will keep it from freezing.

 

If you can find a belt pulley and bolt with some big washers, put the bolt through the center of the pulley with a washer on each side. Chuck the bolt in your drill and use a belt around the water pump pulley and the drill pulley and let it pump to circulate the antifreeze mix. Just make sure the drill is spinning the correct way to pump the antifreeze.

 

Your antifreeze may slush up and not circulate but I dought it will brake any thing.

 

Any little electric motor will spin the pump. Or if you have a generator, just put a short belt around the gen and pump, and motor the generator. But as said above, pulling the bottom rad hose will drain the system. You could spin the pump with a drill and a rubber disc for an angle grinder, just use friction drive. You might need a reversible drill though.
That oughta keep you busy for a while........Haha.