Here you're sure you're right^ Here you're sure you were wrong ^ And still don't know that #1 is up on compression stroke.
Find TDC on cylinder 1. Then check 3 and 5 to see which one comes up to TDC next. That'll tell you if it's a 302 or 302HO. Without knowing that, you don't know if the plug wires are in the right order on the cap. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I BELIEVE that the order in which each piston arrives at tdc is the same,the difference is in if it is on compression stroke or exhaust stroke....if in doubt stick a finger over the sparkplug hole and check for compression
I'm no Ford guy, but will a 351 cam make this more confusing? I thought they could be put in a SB ford and that changes the firing order. Or is it the same as the HO? And to the OP - did you hear this thing run before you bought it? Have you talked to the seller?
Here's what I found , I'm only guessing the best I can but I think the points dizzy was 1 tooth off, the dizzy body needed to be twisted that much, so much that it looked too far advanced but actually timing was still retarded. Still guessing - Now there's a HEI in the mix, so it ran fine in the 96, out came that dizzy and in went points, ran but shitty, now the hei is in and it only pops.
There are aftermarket distributors that are those horrible GM HEI's made to fit Ford's (and many other motors)
The cam sets the firing order. Ford stands for - firing order really different Get the book out. Ford also stands for - finished on right day. Get the Vin and the Book. Ford cylinder numbering. Firewall 4 -- 8 3 -- 7 2 -- 6 1 -- 5 Front bumper Ford firing orders 289 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 302 (Pre-82) 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 5.0 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 5.0 HO 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 5.0 Truck 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 351 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Here's a genuine ford 1996 ford F series With 5.0 under hood sticker . And It's got the 351 or 5.0 HO firing order. Get the book out
My suggestion to move the plug wires back one spot is meant to be a diagnostic tool, not a permanent solution. The permanent solution has been mentioned numerous times, and that is to physically verify TDC one the number one cylinder, and then verify exactly where your distributor rotor is pointed. Once you have your distributor oriented correctly, and your firing order correct, the timing issue is completely eliminated. Now, after this is all done, if you're still having an issue, you have at least eliminated timing as a cause. Then you can look at whether you're getting good spark, and proper valve timing and function. I'm not trying to be a jack ass here, I'm speaking from the frustrating experience of wasting several days trying to get a car running that I knew was capable of running. I can't tell you how many times I went over the firing order, only to find that I had 2 ( I think it was 5 and 7 on an SBC) wires switched in the end...I had checked that numerous times, and missed it...numerous times....
This looks like it might be a petty slick way to locate TDC. I'd expect the damper and timing tab to agree closely, or something ELSE is out of wack. After that, confirming the rotor points at whatever you are calling number one on the cap, and is pretty well indexed should get some better results.
I've seen those, and wondered how well, or why, anybody would use them. There's one on my 283 that's coming off for a set of points and condenser. I will say it eliminates a separate coil, is idiot proof (well, maybe not...) to wire, and the GM originals work great. One thing nobody's mentioned or suggested is that perhaps the plug wires are bad, after being installed, removed, reinstalled, removed again. Unless they're new, simply unplugging the boots and flexing the wires will often break the conductor inside. I had that happen with the 5.0 HO in my '59 T'bird. Ran great in the Mustang it came from, after cleaning, detailing and putting it the 'bird it popped, sputtered, barely ran. Several wires, which looked fine, but were of unknown age, simply weren't firing, and more were only conducting intermittently. New wires, no problems.
now take all the tips you've been given and figure it out. You are close enough to move the plug wires around one hole or insert the distributor one tooth forward or back.
Didn't change anything? The engine may not run great, but moving the distributer should make some change in how the engine runs. If rotating the distributer clockwise for example, cause the engine to run better, continue to go in that direction. Since the engine runs, I would locate TDC once more. Now pull the distributer cap and check the position of the rotor. Now reposition the wires so that the #1 is in the center of the arc that the distributer turns. If the distributer turns say 60* between the two points that the distributer body otherwise contacts the intake, place the #1 terminal at the arc mid point. Now you should have enough travel to properly advance and retard the distributer to the correct position.
No you crack me up !!! You set my hair on fire There's no less than one century of combined experience here trying to help you, Actually it's probably well over 2 centuries. Everyone knows what the problem is and everyone has explained how to do it. There's no simpler way than what's been outlined. There's no black art magic words, no secret handshake, no special way your supposed to hold your tongue when you run plug wires, no crossing your fingers when you turn the key- you really do have all of the information. But you come back here, tell us that everything is correct but your truck won't start. From what you're saying I can just about see it myself your distributor is off at least 1 tooth. This works, but I don't recommend jumping the plug wires one spot to compensate for the distributor off a tooth. That's a diagnostic method for mechanics and it's really confusing for the next person to open the hood even it's the same guy 5 mins later. It works but I wouldn't. One more time , Remove #1 plug. Bring #1 piston up to the top !!!! on compression, it will blow your finger off the plug hole. Verify its up top, it will stop blowing your finger off, I don't recommend it but you can probe the plug hole to feel the piston stop moving . It's gotta be up top on compression stroke. !!!! Look at the timing marks. Note if close or off. Take a pic to remember. !!!! Find #1 plug wire and make a small, tiny, just enough to see dot on the distributor body where #1 plug wire is, right under neath the center. Take a picture. Pop the distributor cap and take a picture of where the rotor is pointing. Provided #1 was up at the top on compression the rotor and your little dot should be together. Take a picture. post those pictures so I can see where you're at exactly and tell you exactly how to correct it.
If it runs but pops through the carburetor it sounds like a firing order issue or spark jumping from one wire to another( bad plug wires ) or a cracked distributor cap....if it idles and pops when you try to rev it that could well be late spark..
How about posting this mystery engine, it might help. First off when I and others are working on an engine our reference to left/ right is while facing the engine and towards the back of the car(engine if not installed). Have you removed the plugs and grounded one or more to see what spark you are getting? Do you have 12V to the dist? Are you getting gas? Have you done a compression check? I start by placing the cap on top of the dist and marking the dist body where the #1 plug post is. Being off one tooth on a distributor really only means you have to turn it a bit more to align it. The dist/ cap doesn't care where you put the #1 plug wire as long as everything is set in the correct order. To avoid any issues you have as to TDC remove the valve cover and ensure both valves close while turning the engine to TDC. Look at the timing marks and see how close you are to TDC. Once all is correct reinstall all and set engine so #1 firing is at 10* advanced on the timing pointer/ balancer and tighten down all components. Have someone in the car to start it while you are under the hood with timing light in hand and see if you are getting spark and whet timing is while cranking if it doesn't fire. Fill in any blanks with others suggestions. DON'T DO ANY OF THIS IF YOU ARE TIRED OR IN A HURRY.
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