Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

Your not coil binding if you are keeping you air gap right. unless you have to many turns of base in it and I'm sure you don't.
Our oiling issue was on the rear main so we was able to tap into the main oil galley and have two oiling holes in the upper main bearing. We did run a M style in the thrust where we ran the V type every where else. M is a softer bearing that we used in everything when making major tuning changes.
I know here I go again I'll hush with the tech lesson.

 

Sounds like you need a stock valve angle Hemi in the Grand Illusion. You already know how to work on them.

 

Here we go making a glass deck lid


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Tony, I wouldn't rum oil thinner than straight 50 weight, and preferably 60 or 70, but ask the others and see what their running.

Quain,

The 392's have the same center thrust bearing.



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Not sure what you're baking there Tony but you sure must have a BIG oven.

 

How in the heck did you find that much floor space in Russ' garage?

I'm curious as hell to see how this is going to turn out. All those other guys with '39 Dodge gassers are going to be lining up to buy 'glass deck lids.

 

So are you going to make a front clip also?

 

No time to post


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Nice mold, should hold it's shape well with your bracing.
To echo Salt Flats, Do you plan on a front clip also?

 

Just another Sockfucker sunday!

 

Isn't that a song by The "Bang"les?

 

Anything from here on in is a winter project for me!!

 

No plans for glass on the front right now. Blacksmith Tom is making an aluminum hood top. The 40 pound doors are next


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I like the easy plan.

 

Learning some things- needs to be stronger around the outside edges



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I have to ask what the orange piping is?

 

This is what makes the Southeast Gassers so cool. Racers like Tony and his friends doing everything their self.

 

Now that's a funny story - Russ has an air compressor that hasn't been started in 30 years out beside the garage - he told us it will be fine, just buy some oil and an air hose. Yeah that thing only made 5 PSI and the new hose I bought looked like good bracing material so ........

The next time the hose will make a complete perimeter loop to strengthen the mold edges.

Yeah it was all fun and games until the gel coat and resin ran Russ' girlfriend out of the house that's why we were in a different garage the next day

 

X2
Can't wait till next season

 

Looks warm and fuzzy around the edges.

good work though, rock out with your sock out!

 

Missed you Jeffy! Was a good time!

 

No need for fiberglass with my Morris Minor gasser project . Probably going to have to add about 450 lbs of weight to get to the D/Gas class. Can't afford enough motor to run with you A/Gas guys.
Your glass is looking good.

 

As far as that thrust goes--we have always filed the edge off bearing half from oil groove back to thrust on rear--makes nice direct pressure oiling to the thrust in two minutes--easy as pie and....Stay off the pedal --keep in neutral as much as possible--stay off dat thang!

 

Spec for thrust is--you need some----.002 is iffy but will live---.004-.006 is great--.007-.012 is racer style--more is yea it will be OK don't worry We take the bearings and sand them on glass plate or other flat surface to gain needed thrust room or to clean up sets like yours--use fine paper, oil or WD-40 and circular motion Those 392 mains are very $$$$ save them for sure oh yea....STAY off that pedal as much as possible!!
Exhaust valve hits on well built engine are from over rev more spring pressure helps but at the risk of killing lifter axles--the only answer is bushed not needles and pressure oil to axle Note on Isky lifters --they are industry standard the smallest diameter out there--so if your lifter bores are worn maybe use the Morels--they invented the bushed deal ( not Isky) and they are a little fatter Morel or Isky stay away from Crower--they still don't understand Mopar oiling and stay far far away from other "name" brands which are Johnsons or imported---- Morel and Isky are the only way to go Many if not most aftermarkets units are Morels USA made John Callies sold Callies cranks and went into the lifter business long while back--he is the man if you have a tech lifter question I am told that regular big block Mopar rollers work in a 392 vs. special units that are crazy high $$--all about the oil band and bar hitting the block other than that duh..solid body with no or very narrow oil band is desirable
FWIW Bob Reed used to turn his Hemi 9100 with not much more than 650 open so it is ALL about that cam lobe design--get new fancy computer designed lobe and youy will have trouble controlling it --get and OLD easy design and you will go same speed and be able to control the valve train--when ordering a cam INSIST on lobes that are easy on the valvetrain They know what you mean!!!!

 

Wouldn't have a pic or drawing of this modified bearing? You saying to cut a notch in the bearing at the oil hole?

 

OK This is a used shell--what you want to do is notice the edge where I put some sharpie in black--then you file that edge off--it makes a channel from the pressurized groove out to the thrust surface--you now have oil pressure sending oil all the time to the much needed area--easy as pie been doing it on all my Mopars for decades Hope these crummy pix help

 

Wow that was easy.

 

You should add about 600-650lbs just to be safe!!