what are the advantages/disadvantages of the regular and copper anti-seize. Is one preferred over th Esther in certain applications? Does it matter? All responses appreciated.
The copper-based stuff is more electrically conductive, and also shouldn't be used on stainless or aluminum. For automotive use, use the 'regular' anti-seize.
I understand that the major difference is that the nickel based anti seize is for high temperature applications up to about 2600 F. In the power plant where I worked we only used the nickel stuff made by Chesterton. I used it regularly on stainless fasteners to keep them from galling together and seizing. I never had any problem with it except that it tended to get on everything and is quite messy.
someone on the HAMB posted about Anti-Seize a while back..... "You could paint your house with 1 can of it." It's one of those "spray-the-monitor-with-your-drink" sayings
Worked building machinery for the wood products industry, anti seize was in every assemblers work station. Always seemed somebody was "mysteriously" the recipient of a small smear of this stuff showing up on tool handles, locker handles, etc. Another popular prank (unpopular if you were the recipient) was putting a dab of Prussion Blue in an inconspicuous spot in someones work area, the smallest amount would seem to go forever.
Commonly used in the electrical industry for assembling metal wire raceways where electrical continuity is important. I've seen it used in some marine environments also, for basically the same reason. Not used much anymore, as most metal raceways that would have needed it have been replaced with non-corroding plastic.
That's interesting but where would you suggest that I find a Magnesia to milk it? Maybe more importantly how do I tell difference between a male and female Magnesia?
Most of the female ones are hard to get along with and seem to have obsessions with clothes, shoes and OT vehicles.
I worked for GM for 35 years and as can be expected in any large factory there were lots of pranks played. Phones in the plant were black and the earpiece was a natural for a small application of Prussian Blue to get even with a foreman that was a dick. I had some great bosses, but there's always one...... BTW, it can be easily washed off with rubbing alcohol if you ever get it on your skin.
I use the nickel base for ammonia refrigeration gaskets and bolts. Don't use copper base it will cause the ammonia to attack it and leak.
Ive used copper on the spark plugs on my 4.6 ford, never had any issues with them sticking to the aluminum heads
Norm51 is right on. I worked 45 yrs in large electrical power plants and every thing used it. I use Silver Goop on spark plugs in aluminum heads. Expensive but worth it.
I usually use the silver stuff on dissimilar metal applications. Espically on aluminum and steel also on any exhaust bolts l put togeather.
Anti Seize with Aluminum offers good corrosion resistance. Copper based conducts Heat and Electricity, I don't like this for spark plugs as they tend to get hotter. Nickel will handle extreme temperatures and chemicals too. Anti Seize without metal particles are really good for preventing galling in Stainless and Aluminum. Graphite based have good chemical and corrosion resistance along with temperature resistance. Moly based can withstand higher pressures and are also good in areas of movement as they resist wear. There's a lot more out there than just "regular" and "Copper" fellas. Do a little research
all I know about anti seize is you can go for like 40 years without ever using it then a spark plug gets stuck in your aluminum head, breaks off, then when trying to get the rest out of the head it drops into the cylinder.
Falcongeorge, if you are more likely to find milk of magnesia in your shop than anti-seize, you need to either reduce your stress level and/or eat more fiber! Hotroddon, for years the various kinds of stuff you mentioned seemed to be known only by those who worked with them. Even the counterman at the local Industrial Supply only offered one or two types when you asked for them. Now days we have the great InterWeb to search and find info. Now we just have to remember what the hell it was we were looking for!
You think so? Do a little research. I'm not alone, just better informed and more experienced than most...^^
Just funnin' with ya. I ain't got time for no stinkin' research, I'm too busy lyin' on my back doin' the wrong thing the hard way ............
Im too busy shovelling snow and salting the steps and driveway to be laying on my back doing the wrong thing the hard way....
I use nickel based anti-seize on a lot of assembles. I try to be judicious with its use. Definitely with dissimilar metals. I've wondered if it would counter the effect of a NyLock nut to do its work.
Yes. Never use anything on the threads with a nylock. The nylock should fit tight enough to wipe any anti-seize off the threads anyway, so there would be no point in it.
The Jalopy Journal
