Building a small block chevy 350 with a Lunati voodoo cam, already know I'm going to use the Lunati 301 break in lube, but what filter? I see Moroso has some for 27 microns on Summit.. any recommendations? And also, what oil (brand) should I get? I want to do this right. First timer here.
NAPA filters are made by Wix, so either one is a good choice. My choice is Comp Cams break in oil or Brad Penn break in oil. Read here for all the oil question you can think of, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...gine-noise-exhaust-etc.1041084/#post-11787671
NAPA Gold or Wix. Regarding oil I use Royal Purple HPS. Brad Penn is good as well the only reason I don't use it I just can't buy it locally.
Not sure which springs your using, but if there the dual spring variety it's not a bad idea to remove the inner for break in.
I used a Royal Purple filter and Valvoline VR1 when I broke in my 355 with the Lunati cam. Any good filter will do the job. I picked up a few Wix XP filters from Summit. This is what I will be using going forward.
For break in, get what's cheap, you're going to change it after you break the cam in anyway...arent you? Cut it open and look? I agree with the WIX and napa for long term use. Be sure to search the threads for break in, how to set the time , prime the carb etc. There are a couple of good ones out there.Good Luck.
Recently picked up an AC Delco filter for the missus OT. Usually use NAPA gold, but convenience got the best of me. I was surprised it stated 'made in the USA' on it. $4 might make a decent, cheap, break-in filter like Rex mentioned above.
I would respectfully disagree. Break-in is not the time to try and save 10 or 15 bucks, you should have the best stuff you can get in it when it takes its first breath. That 10 or 15 bucks you saved will most likely end up costing you 300 bucks worth of cam, lifters and gaskets plus more oil and a filter for the next break-in. I used to build engines for a living, I've been there.
I use a 30 gph wix race filter with no by-pass, but I use monograde oil and no by-pass in the block. If you are using a multigrade and a bypass, you can probably get by with a lower flow rate. I wouldn't use a K&N personally, a couple engine builders on Speedtalk have had them fail on the dyno. I don't think they are that great a filter. Just so people know, K&N belongs to Rank group out of New Zealand. The same parent company as F#@m, a little "food for thought". Edit: I change my oil a lot, and I rev the wee out of stuff. For the record, I am more concerned with flow rate and burst strength than microns. Your "mileage" may vary...
Baldwin makes a good filter too, or they used to a few years back. With all the outsourcing, all this stuff can change from one day to the next... Jomar and Moroso are good too, but they are re-boxed Baldwin race filters.
Wix,K&N and brad penn 10w40. Don't use good headers until you run it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes or whatever your cam calls for.
What about oil if I use the Lunati 301 ZDDP additive? The ones I see recommended already have ZDDP put in them.
I don't cheap out on the oil, either, so I agree with you there. I didn't mention oil because I didn't want it to turn into another oil/Zddp discussion. There are a few of those if one wants to search for them. I used to like the System 1 filter, so I could take it apart and inspect it, but I think you get better filtration with a paper filter, even a cheap one. Good Luck.
Here is the kicker you need 2000 rpm to break in the cam. 2000 rpm with cold oil will open the filter bypass valve so you haven't any filter until the oil warms up.
Just for the hell of it, here's a comparison page I found while looking for something else this morning. Various filters vs Napa Gold. Kinda interesting: http://www.fleetfilter.com/comparison-wix-filter.html
WIX Why Not ask the Place thats Rebuilding the Engine he will tell you what Type of Oil to use Just my 3.5 cents or when the Cows Come Home
You should have gotten a little card with the Lunati cam. Part is the warranty you send back, the other is how to break in the cam and what additive to use, etc. I used a Comp Cams additive since I needed to get it locally.
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