Red roadster? I saw it for sale and thought the title on a body sounded awful fishy. And.. who was the member on here who got their ass in a sling over a glass car titled as an old car? I'd be real leary of that deal. It just didn't all add up to me
Wow! Not one answer from someone who's actually dealt with CADMV, except for Gimpy. And, Abomb was right. You don't want to try this out on CADMV! They WILL confiscate the paperwork, car and probably you if there's any hint of wrongdoing! Call Donna Leek (530)346-8781-office or (530)320-5708-cell. Tell her all the pertinent info and ask her opinion. If she says it's doable, cut her a check for $275 and forget about it (the best $275 you'll ever spend on the car). If she says 'no', take Gimpy's advice and run for the hills!!
X2 on this. Titling a hot rod in CA can be done, and a fiberglass one, too, but it has to be done properly. As has been recommended, call Donna. If you try this the hard way, you could be in for a world of hurt, expense, or both. I do not know where the myth that the CA DMV VIN inspectors or, even more so, CHP, do not know what they are doing, or what they are looking at. Every DMV, and CHP office has a couple of giant books that indicate the policies and procedures of all of the other states and territories, what their documents look like, and where any and all numbers are on your car. The only way you could slip through is to accidentally find someone who does not want to bother to check.
A 1932 Ford has the VIN (or ID if you prefer) number stamped on the frame. EVERY licensed DMV inspector and CHP officer knows this. The numbering sequence for a 32 will be between *18-1* and *18-203126* with the star being stamped in the frame as well. The sequence that the generic tag has is WRONG, the - is after the 18 and Never in the sequential digits. In this case you are probably better off completing the car and just registering it under the SB100 system that California offers. I had a Fiberglass 32 on aftermarket rails. It came from Ohio where it had an assigned VIN tag riveted to the frame. It was Not a standard 32 VIN, but one that Ohio made up, it actually started with 1932XXXXXXXX. It was current and registered as a 1932 Ford. By Law California had to accept this title and issue me a title as a 1932 Ford, which they did after just getting a VIN verification by a licensed verifier.
I have a Wescott bodied roadster registered in California. The DMV doesn't care about a body "vin". They care about the numbers stamped into the frame. Ford stamped the number 3 places on the top of the left frame rail. Near the firewall foot, on the top near center of the rail below the door area,and on the kick up over the axle. Only the front number will be completd, i.e. star18-xxxxxxstar. The other two will be the sequence number only, i.e. starxxxxxxstar. When you register the vehicle you will state the body type and it will be listed as such on the title. Check with a lien sale company or title company but I think you will find the in Ca. body "titles" are worthless. I went to a title company which inspected the forward frame number, verified it and $150 later I had a correct and current California title.
If there is not a valid serial number on the frame, then you are best off going the SB100 route. Trying any other way is, as I have stated, and will re-state as many times as it takes, a huge risk, as all are illegal. If you get caught, the least of the punishments you could receive is getting the car confiscated. If someone pissed in local DA's Cheerios, you could be up for a FELL-OH-KNEE! Sure, that's not very common, but do you want to be the guy we all talk about who didn't listen?
Well, here's where I ended up...... When I registered my cobbled together trailer the CA DMV gave me an adhesive backed ID tag which shortly degraded. I don't know what CA gives for cars.... The bigger problem, besides the very new looking 'State of Missouri' embossing and the old issuance date was something that I had blocked out from your view.... the engine number. 18-203131 was the number in that location which seemed okay until research showed that 18-203126 was the last '32 built. Five off from the very last car built? fishy..... The seller offered to transfer it into his name on a Texas title before selling it to me but there is too great a possibility of the number coming up as already being used..... not the first fake Missouri title in CA..... AFTER the car is done. No thanks..... The big draw for this body (for me) was the title which could save me a lot of hassle but if it's no good then it's just a used fiberglass body worth much less than what he was asking. I would then still have to go through the CA titling process but I already have a Henry Ford steel '29/'31 sports coupe body/repop frame that I have to do that with. I'm going to take the advice of everyone of you and pass..... thanks for the brutal honesty.
Not intentionally trying to be brutal, but some of us have either seen first hand or through another the BIG azz aches situations like yours have created.
Call Donna and talk to her about what you already have and what you want to do. She should able to tell you "go"/"no-go" pretty quick.
Yup. I have seen folks who did not take sound advice have to lawyer-up, and plead to a lesser charge, after losing the car....
Regardless of what state you're in, having that body with a dummied up title and s/n can put you in a position where you have to prove in federal court that it wasn't you who violated 18 USC 511 which covers both vehicles and parts, and carries a sentence of 5 years plus a fine that usually starts at no less than $10,000. Whoever's trying to sell this is just begging to go to jail for a long time. When it comes to screwing around with motor vehicle serial numbers, any state will be a real sweetheart to deal with compared to getting crossed up with the Feds.
That title is a fake and a poor one at that. People that try to pass that shit off as real need kicked in the balls a time or two.
Minor adjustment. The '32 Ford passenger vehicle (not big truck) if equipped with a 4 cylinder engine will have a number between *AB5000001* and *AB5062386* or *B5062387* and *B5178484* (approximately). Note that the * is a 5 pointed star in the real number. Charlie Stephens
Donna Leek owns Professional Registration Services. She's in Grass Valley, CA. but can handle any DMV transaction in the state. She handled my '54 Ford. I bought the car with no paperwork, at all. I gave her the 'bill of sale' and a photo of the VIN tag. Everything was done by email and over the phone. It took about 2 weeks but I received a new title in my name, was able to retain the original blk/yel license plates and received 2017 tags for them. It cost me her fee of $275 + $122 in DMV charges. I spoke to DMV before contacting Donna and they wanted a VIN verification, reams of paperwork and over $700 in back fees! In addition, it would have been several trips to DMV. Like I said. Best $275 you'll ever spend on the car!
North Carolina has adopted DMV rules that are akin to the ones the Nazis must have run--ANY vehicle brought into NC that wants a tag has to be inspected by DMV--and if there is a whiff of issue you are in trouble if you want to drive it and....they are one of a couple of states that joined to sue places like Alabama Title company and others like them--a NC DMV guy bought a glass Ford with shady Alabama title and that started it all--NC claimed in the lawsuit that they were robbed of NC tax $$ by the "scam' titles etc I had an Alabama title deal done on a 1964 barnfind Plymouth--it was LEGAL when I did it--NC issues me clear new title etc--all good--YEARS later a DMV guy drives up in his LTD, gets out and starts questioning me wanting to see this 64--well I said--Sold it to a guy in Mass years ago--LUCKY for me I told the whole tale --then went to my shop attic--pulled down the old records or everything--I even had the receipt for the money order I sent to Alabama!! I had it all and it all agreed with what I had told him in the driveway--keep in mind this was many YEARS after the fact--he left, said he would be back that they were going to confiscate my now long gone Plymouth but I never saw him again--whew!! I hate guys with crew cuts and Wingtip shoes!!!!!!!!!! North Carolina makes it hard to get anything that is not perfect done here--and to what end?? The car crooks are all at the dealerships and easy to find
That is the way to go! I have a pal in Norway that does this for a living--importing cars to Norway for customers--he handles it from Ebay find--to inspection--shipping--DMV, tags taxes etc until it is sitting in your frozen Norway garage--his service is WELL worth it for his clients---I would give that lady the loot and make it easy on yourself
IF you wanted a body like that just make sure you have a stock frame (or beat frame) with a clear title (or clear numbers at least)........something like you posted when you go to the DMV they WILL want to see it and then the game is over. BTW my '54 Ford Panel has a "new" vin tag (original numbers) on the door jamb, it's an official blue piece of metal riveted to the jamb. I bought it that way but why Ford decided it was a good idea to put the vin on the glove box lid, I'll never know. Mine is still on the frame but who's going to look there.
Hey it is now time to register my 32 Roadster. Talked to Donna Leek a few years ago but none of her numbers or email get any response.
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