So with all the new places to pump oil, I will need an oil pump. And a drive for the pump. I decided to go with a belt driven external pump because that is what I have used in the past. I started with the original pulley and some Gold Wing cam drive parts. Turned the pulley to 1 1/4 OD and bored the Gold Wing pulley the same. Slid them together and brazed them . I wanted some flanges to keep the belt from walking off. And neglected to notice that the Honda flanges were in with the parts I already had. So I found some scrap and cut rings from that. I brazed them to the now 1 1/4 iron shaft and drilled 5 holes in each next to the Honda teeth and brazed them there also. I used 1/6th for the rear because that's what was around and it's plenty for this. I used 1/8 for the front as I may want to drill and tap it later to install a V belt pulley to drive the water pump and maybe an alternator. Here is before (sort of) and after pictures. The Honda parts were very reasonable on the Bay.
Hi I have tripped over a full 3 port oldsmobile engine currently on EBAY USA for 1500 dollars The guy will split the head for $500 Seems to me to be expensive as he offers no guarantees with it and it is rusty as only an engine stored outside for many years can be However for the man who doesn't have one ..............
Herb Looking through the posts in 1349 you say you made some billet aluminium rockers . Do you happen to have a drawing kicking about . Sort of cheeky to ask but why invent a wheel when someone has already done the hard work!. Looking on the VW sites there are standard tappets or ball types available which did you end up using . I have already bought a plate of 7075 ally 1 inch thick and was going to get some waterjet cut out. I am also looking at PUSHRODS" 4140 Chromoly 3/8" x .035" Wall with some inserts in the ends
Hi Mosquit0- On something like that I am unlikely to make a drawing, just ''design'' by eye--but I will look in the archives of the cave, You are correct as to pushrods. Thin wall 3/8" 4130 tube/ aircooled VW ends.. as to the rockers, this pix might give yo an idea as to the shape. the channel on the top of the valve end sloped downward, to oil the center bronze bushing-- Done with a 1/2''ball ended endmill. I know that I have top and bottom views also--but can't find them. Material was 3/4 2024 alum. sorry about this duplication of part of the msg. The ''new improved'' HAMB system and I just do not get along! Herb give you a pretty good idea as to the shape.the channel on the top of the valve end sloped downward, and exited into the bronze center bushing-- . Done with a 1/2''ball ended endmill. Sorry about the duplication of this, the ''new, improved''HAMB system and I just plain do not get along. Herb
[Thanks Herb I think from the picture I should be able to work it out from here . Am I right in thinking that you have used the VW adjusters on the valve heads and the original chevy adjusters for the pushrod side.
VW adjusters at the valve end-yes, but no valve adjusters any where else. Send us a photo when you are finished ! Herb
So the current thinking might be to make a set of roller rockers . Played about with the lazer cutter and knocked up the following item in plastic. I did this some 12 months ago I bought a set of Ford transit rockers to provide the rollers. Not at all sure its worth the effort of rollers but what the hell. I have got them so do you think its worth a go? Alternative is to make a set much as yours. This is only for a moderate engine and at the moment I do not anticipate high revs. In a very early post you suggested NOT to pressure feed the bottom end . about 246 ish post for a moderately hopped up engine May I ask why not? Rather carelessly I have already cross drilled the crank and got a bit of the way with the oil pipes. I have yet to do the pump decision making . Suggestions appear to be a mid 50-60s chevy 6 pump Does this give enough capacity and or pressure. I am using the babbit mains and will be fitting Model a rods again babbit'd. This is all placed into a 28 block . I have been also looking at the idea of replacing the standard followers with a phosphor bronze bush and replacing the cam follower with a VW item. I read the idea of Model B followers but no one appears to make them , Mac sell A followers for B motors but they have the smaller head. VW do them in 30 and 31mm diameter. I will order one up and have a look see if its do-able fix. VW bits are easily obtainable over here and not expensive
Morning All Been doing a bit of wood butchery with my pet chainsaw to make the back and scuttle / dashboard for the speedster I am sorting out at the moment. They fit onto a frame and will then be fabric covered on the sides. i
There are a couple of Chevy engines on prewar car in Denmark if of any interest Looks like a 28 and an earlier engine
Are you going with A pistons as well as rods? I never made it up past your place last month, shame I was keen to see your projects Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have just bought a set of 261 with a + 40 thou oversize from the states. I will need to get a set of rings. Looking at the advice from Herb and others it appears to be a safer option with the block.
Mosquito--I wrote out a reply Monday and posted it (I thought) but some how I screwed up and it got lost. Sorry. My reason for saying not to pressurize a low RPM engine, is that I don't think that all the work is necessary, or worth the trouble. Drilling the crank certainly doesn't make it any stronger, but it is a risk that must be taken if you are going in for a ''hot'' engine. Either way, I would say that welding counterweights on the crank is beneficial, and combined with the necessary balance job will make for a smoother running mill. Yes, that Chev 6 oil pump is the one that I used, and I would try to ensure that the oil is squirted at the rod bigends--you may have to do some modification to the interior of the pan plumbing to get this--don't worry too much about the main oiling, there is plenty of oil splashing around. If you want to do anything for the mains, a small feed to the center main is beneficial, it is the heaviest loaded --feed the top of the main. Feeding the bottom of a main is the wrong place to do it. 261 pistons are the ones to use, especially if you can find real GM ones. Use all cast iron rings--no chrome, or sheet metal oil. I don't like using them on an old block-- they didn't have the alloys in the iron that modern blocks have. Have fun, and keep us posted. Herb
I forgot about the roller rocker question. I don't think that they are necessary on an old, low RPM build. don't forget that they make the fastest moving end of the rocker heavier, and that means more load on the cam/lifter oil film. Another thing. When you bore the block, offset the new bores as much as possible--1 from 2 and then 3 from 4-Keep as much head gasket area between these as possible--no sense making that spot any narrower. You just want the bores to clean up on the adjoining sides, and the most metal be taken off the far sides (away from the joint) Is this understandable? Make up a ''torque plate'' and use when doing the bore and hone Herb
Sound advice there on the boring. I finally have my head back from the shop. Shiny new (ford) valves. I am a little worried about putting A pistons in but it won't be a high revver so should be ok. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
[ Hi All So here is the blank cam follower I have knocked up on the CNC.. Following the initial attempt I decided that it would be better to make the top beam a bit thicker . 11mm thick and 19mm wide . Interesting this weighs within a gram the same as a stock follower.at 88g The second version is 15mm thick and is another 20g. I think I will use this heavier item. By the time I have waisted the sides a bit towards the tip, radiased the tips and dug an oil hole like Herbs I think its going to be not a lot heavier than standard. I have decided to use some A series (Mini ) early rocker tips and the screw adjusters Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app[/QUOTE]
Herb, I know that i posted this pic in another thread, but it got me thinking (could you smell the smoke)- What was Winfield's reasoning on the unique cam lobe profile on his "2 up 2 down" engine? Really interesting, how they seem to kick out... or is that just my eyes playing tricks?
How could that stay together? What is the advantage of two up two down? They are all two up two down just different twos. What is the firing order?
So Dave, wouldn't that also be an issue for the Chevy 4 head that could be resolved with the 2 up 2 down design? Normal T is 1243- Winfield changed his to 1324, and apparently, he came up with 2 camshaft profiles as well... anyway, the cam profile has always been a closely guarded secret. I'd love to see how the modified crank/cam would further wake up the early Chevy 4 (and further frustrate the T boys)
I suppose it would! Don't know that I'd want to do it for anything but a dedicated race car, though. As I think Winfield put it, "it vibrated a bit."
Yea, I read that, too- but also read that the crew who restored the engine said it runs great with no vibration! It would be a fun little engine to build for TRoG or Scarry Larry's dirt track event
As long as you were building a crank all the rod length, piston, chamber size issues could be dealt with too. Full pressure? Insert bearings, flywheel, clutch........ By the time you were done with the cam you'd be out running more than Ts. It sounds like fun to me. A case where the stronger '25 block might come into play.
Been away for a little while guys, but I had a pooter meltdown and had to buy a new one. What with trying to get all the stuff off the old hard drive, and trying to get Win 10 usable by an idiot like myself took my son a while. But I'm back--like it or not. The main question that is unanswered is the cam shape on Winfieleds engine. If you make a small cardboard cam lobe approximately that shape, and a small round "roller", then do the same thing with a cardboard flat tappet, and a normal cam shape, you will see. If you want anything even approaching radical timing with a roller tappet you MUST have a lobe shape like that--and if you would try to use a roller on a conventional lobe shape you will get the same lift (as a flat tappet) but get a valve opening and closing diagram that shows much less total area. Conversely, if you tried to run a flat tappet on the Winfield lobe, likely either the cam or the tappet will break on the first few revolutions--if not before. Guys sometimes say "I"m gonna run a roller tappet on the stock cam" and I try to show them why it's a bad idea. They probably try anyway, and the engine makes about 2/3rds the power it did when stock--so the go away disgruntled, and tell everyone that those damned engines are POS's. Try things with cardboard, as I said, and be aware of the upward movement of the tappet with both kinds--flat and roller. Then try both with the Winfield cam--in a half turn, you will see what's wrong. The last bike that I built, also the last one that I sold was a 83 inch Indian Chief in a 101 frame, called a "Chout" in the old days. Near stock bore,but homemade steel billet flywheels with 5 3/8 " stroke--all that you can fit into the crankcases. The cams were homemade also, but copied from a design from back in the 30's called a Shunk cam. Very definitely "peanut" shaped, like the Winfield. All Indian V twins (except perhaps the first couple years), used roller tappets. Was going to insert a pix of it--but can't find it. Hope that those shots aren't gone forever---- Herb
Do you mean that CAD doesn't mean Cardboard Aided Design? Damn! -That must be why all my projects are taking so long to finish.
The Jalopy Journal
