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292 Y Block Sump Line

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sdsweet, Nov 11, 2016.

  1. Sdsweet
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Sdsweet
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Need some help. I did a lot of research and can't find the answer.

    Does anyone know the size AN fittings for the oil sump line from the oil pan to the oil pump?

    I saw a picture of it in a Google search but in the article it never talked about it. I would like to change mine because the original line is dented and leaking.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

  3. Sdsweet
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Sdsweet
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

  4. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That stock fitting is compression, not AN. The nut is a 1" x 18 that compresses a rubber-type bushing over the 5/8" OD feed tube inside the pump housing. An AN conversion may be possible or available.
     
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  5. Sdsweet
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Sdsweet
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Thanks V8 Bob. Here is pic of what I found that peaked my interest 1479077062175.png

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    loudbang likes this.
  6. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    No reason that wouldnt work but it too would require pulling the pan and would cost a lot more than fixing what you have.I have had pretty good luck with working damaged Y block sump lines over a mandrel and getting them round and to size again.Slow, but cheap.
     
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  7. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,709

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    AT least that red motor has the Gearotor pump instead of the two gear pump. & (at least recently) Mellings stocked rebuild kits for these pumps, so even if worn, don't discard these as they are REBUILDABLE!! They are hard to find!
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2016
  8. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Big Block Toyota.
     
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  9. Tedd
    Joined: Jul 7, 2007
    Posts: 124

    Tedd
    Member

    That picture is one of mine. The oil pump must be threaded to a 3/4" NPT and the AN fitting itself is #12AN X 3/4"NPT. There are some tubing adapters out there that will adapt the 1/2" tube to a #12AN if trying to retain the original oil tube going into the sump. It's then just a matter of making up a piece of #12 line to connect the pump to the tube assuming you're working with a front sump oil pan. My own preference is to simply build a new oil pickup for the oil pan with an exposed #12AN male fitting at the outside of the pan (as shown in the picture). This gives more length for the connecting hose. I also prefer #12 over #10 on any suction side of the oil pump due to cavitation issues rearing its head when using the smaller sized lines and corresponding fittings. Ted Eaton.
     
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  10. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    Big Block Toyota? Call it fat fingers, should have been Back To Top. But it worked none the less as it got this back on the 1st page where people who know more than me were able to see it.
    -Dave
     
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  11. Sdsweet
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 8

    Sdsweet
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    Ted,

    Thank you for the response. I am currently rounding up all the fittings to complete this.

    I have another question. My oil pan was missing the nuts on the two studs and I can't seam to find the correct ones. I read somewhere that they are fine threads but I put a 5/16- 24 but it only went on one turn. Would you know what size it is?

    Thanks
    Shawn

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  12. Tedd
    Joined: Jul 7, 2007
    Posts: 124

    Tedd
    Member

    Assuming the studs are the originals, they are double ended with 5/16-18 on the seal retainer end and 5/16-24 for the pan nuts. If you don't see a shoulder on the stud separating the two different threads, then it's possible you have 5/16-18 threads on the whole length of the stud. That would make this something that has been fitted to the engine on a prior rebuild. Ted Eaton.
     
    Sdsweet and y'sguy like this.

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