Technical Tie rod ends on radius rod question

I plan on using tie rod ends on my radius rods up front and mounting them directly through the frame and not in a bracket. I've seen this done and when people do it do they weld in a tapered bung of some sort inside the frame or just drill a hole and stick it through with a nut in the back.
In the pic I am holding a tapered shock mount that I was going to weld into the frame from the inside for more support. Is this needed or is there a better way? Thanks


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If the taper fits the tie rod end properly, it's a great way to do it.

 

When I was planning my present build, that's how I was going to do it. Looking back, I now wish I had followed through with it. Go for it!

 

That's the thing, it doesn't. I was gonna ream it out to fit better but I thought I would try to gather other options.


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I would weld a diamond or long oval shape plate on the inside first to re-inforce the side of the channel and distribute the load. I'd then weld the bung flush with or slightly proud of the outside wall.

If boxed, same but with an access tube for a big enough socket.

 

At the expense of being critical here...And I try not to do this but like many here I care about people and their project being the best it can be... and of course their safety.
Although I am not a 3P-Zero-S (period Perfect POS) expert and lean way to the drag racing side of things I will ask these questions..1 are the welded tube adapter and the tubing compatible materials?2 why not just use a high quality rod end, ad a nice bung to the frame and grade 8 bolt it?. The first question is important because if that is a chromemoly tube adapter and mild steel tubing or visa versa you run the risk of it cracking off for two reasons 1 moly is not a good mig process candidate because of the carbon content and the filler material in wire welding is also not compatible.. also the heat from the Mig process is a big factor. If I am wrong about this and someone here with more street rod experience can correct me I sure would appreciate it.

 

Ream it to fit the taper and it will be good to go

 

When you say rod end and bolt are you referring to a heim joint and bolt? Just making sure I am understanding. If so, I thought about that but I am trying to keep it more period-ish.


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I am trying to keep it more period-ish. ---ok good enough

 

I'm with X38, weld an additional plate in to reinforce around the bung. By itself it could tear out of that 11 gauge frame rail. Definataly need a bung of some type, just a hole won't work, you would never get it tight and even if you stacked enough washers on it to it would wallow out in no time. Lot's of force there every time you hit a bump. Use a 7 degree tapered reamer in the bungs for tie rods, you want it to fit right and tight. Speedway sells the reamer if you can't find it locally but kinda pricey, might find someone with one to borrow or even hire to ream your bungs .

 

HiHelix is right but that "shock mount" pictured looks like the ones Speedway sells. If so, I believe they are not chromoly. However, you say that the tapers don't match? If it's Speedway's, it should.
You might just look for another bung that fits the taper correctly. Or buy the correct reamer and weld a nice plate inside the frame where the rod end goes, then drill and ream it. Don't worry, you'll find plenty of opportunities to use that $80 reamer if you keep on messing with these old cars.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-7-Degree,2918.html (be sure it's the right one)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frame-Mount-Plate-for-Tie-Rod-Ends-Pair,215975.html

 

When I built my T bucket I just cut the eyes off a pair of steering arms that had the same taper and with a few minutes of grinding had them to where we (my buddy) could weld them into the tabs I had made to weld to the frame. Easier to order the bungs than hunt down donor steering arms these days though.

 

Speedway's tapered "shock mount" bungs are too thick to fit a castle nut and cotter pin. Cut off steering arm eyes work the best as Mr48chev says. Never really noticed a shortage of cut off arms tho.

 

I had originally built my RPU using heim rod ends.
I decided that I wanted to switch to tie rod ends instead for a cleaner safer job.

The fronts are 1/2" steel plates welded into sleeves in the frame.

The rears had to stand out from the frame a little so I made cones with welded in bungs and welded them into sleeves through the frame.

The bungs I made were tapered to the proper 7° with a tie rod reamer from Speedway.

I have a lousy Internet connection right now so I can't easily post pictures.

But you can see good pictures in my build thread here. Just scroll down the page.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/26-t-roadster-pick-up-build-thread.460009/page-25

 

tie rods usually 7* taper

 

As I said right above.

 

Hey thanks for the input guys. I'm gonna ream it out and do it that way. I will hole saw a hole and make the tapered shock mount flush with the frame so the shank doesn't go into the frame too far. Thanks fellas


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There's an outfit called welders series they have a slick tierod mount kit. I don't know how to post a link. Google.

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Hey thanks, haven't heard of those guys. Here's the link
https://welderseries.com/blog/#!/Through-Frame-Hairpin-Mount-Kit/p/51209625


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There was someone on here that was selling the bung.

Old looking sleeve:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...later-ford-tie-rod-ends.978537/#post-11021999

Here's some:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/thru-the-frame-tierod-bungs.985008/

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frame-Mount-Plate-for-Tie-Rod-Ends-Pair,215975.html

 

Yep the Welder's Series bungs are what I used. Really nice product.
Don't forget that that pricing on their website is in Cdn$, so that's 45USD$ and change, you cannot beat the price.
Might want to order them before Tuesday in case the American dollar tanks in value mid-week.....just sayin'.

 

Go for the Welder Series. I've got a set of the hair pin mounts and they are nice quality! The guy has a lot of good pieces and you're supporting a fellow hot rodder!
https://welderseries.com/blog/#!/Through-Frame-Hairpin-Mount-Kit/p/51209625/category=12959481

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I've used a thru the frame tie rod mount from R Jays Speed Shop in the past. Allows a socket to be used from the inside of the rails to tighten the nut. Very high quality and not expensive.

 

I have always used the weld in bung. Just make sure that the axle is at 7* caster before you mount the wishbone ends to the frame.

 

I don't like using rod ends on street cars for two reasons, 1) they don't really look appropriate, but 2), more importantly they aren't really designed for the rigors of thousands of miles of street use and end up wearing creating sloppy handling and a bit of noise.
As for the bungs I usually TIG weld them and have Never had a problem with the Chromoly to mild steel creating any issues, use ER80S-D2 filler or even 304L (the SS rod will add some ductility to the weld). But you can most certainly MIG weld Chromoly to Mild Steel without any issues if you use the proper wire and watch both the initial heat and the cooling process so that the area next to the weld does not become brittle. Normalize the area after the weld if it is a high stress component. I have a freind who is a certified Aerospace welder with certs in Chromoly and he was the one who taught me.

 

I had the same issue with mine from Speedway. I had to re-ream mine so the castle nut would fit properly. Just double check your stuff. I like the idea of thickening up the material on the frame right there too.

This is an inside view of mine welded to some 1/4" plate.

 

You need to determine where the end of the split bone will be once you position at 7 degrees caster. It may be below the rails as it was when connected to the ball on the k member. Tie-rod ends work fine for wishbone ends. They endure the same forces as in tie rod or draglink installations.


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I tried reaming out those bungs with a rotary file - no dice. I went to the wrecking yard, cut the arms off of a late model stang and used those. Turned out pretty good. Thanks for the input guys.







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Cut

TIG'ed to tubing - perimeter and plug. (Skinny Socket fits inside - Crown Nut? Use HD thread lock)

TIG'ed to inside of frame

Later TIG'ed to outside and inside to boxing plate,

I'll find /make a plug for the inside hole later...

 

I did mine so...
Fully boxed frame. It's going trough and TIG welded both sides. Custom big nut has been made (sticking out )