Hot Rods How to wire MOPAR (2) field alternator

My buddy is wiring up his car and is using this (2) field alternator, the ground and battery power are self explanatory. NOTE: The field connector on the left has a ceramic insulator.

My question is which terminal gets the exciter wire and which wire goes to the regulator?

Does the MOPAR alternator have a built in diode for the exciter wire or should I solder one in?

 

Both brushes are insulated so it doesn't matter.

 

Thanks....now I just need to know if a diode is required on the exciter feed.

 

not sure what you mean by "exciter feed". That sounds like a Delco term? What regulator are you using?

 

That is an Isolated field Mopar unit ,it is normally used with their Electonic regulator . I think they changed in 1970 from a grounded field with the old mechanical regulator.
Here is my take on this , It has been a long time. These varied output by adjusting input . I think it would be easier to use a regulator. I do know if you ground one of the leads it will charge full blast.
I think you can not use this like a one wire GM alternator with a built in Regulator . Once again its been 25 years since I've worked on these. Best of luck.

 

I'm used to working with a one wire GM alternator with internal regulator that requires a diode on the ignition exciter feed to prevent power back feed when key is turned off.

So with the MOPAR unit would I only need to run the ignition feed (12v) to the feed side of the regulator and the other wire to the "field" connector -and- leave the 2nd field wire alone (open)?

Or is the regulator grounded on one side and linked to one field terminal, with 12v to the other field terminal?

 

One field wire on the alternator is fed by ignition the other field terminal goes to the regulator which grounds that wire to complete the circuit so the alternator will charge. You need to use the Chrysler regulator from the 70's to 80's
(triangle plug on the regulator)

 

I'll ask again, what regulator are you using? Chrysler changed from mechanical to electronic regulators around 1970, they are wired differently.

 

He didn't purchase a regulator yet but will use electronic regulator with triangle connector.

Thanks e1956v....I just need to know if an inline diode is required for the ignition feed side..can't hurt?

 

No diode needed.

 

THANKS GUYS!

 

Were not finished yet...I got this alternator from Pomona swap, not thinking about regulator at the time.






What regulator should I be looking for?

I intend on fabricating brackets to mount this to the Hemi I am running in my `47 Chrysler to keep the Mopar vibe.

 

This is the style we used, had to buy the triangular connector also:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Mo...ash=item2ef404f4d9:g:MPAAAOSwvg9Xdw6k&vxp=mtr

 

that's the newer style with the isolated field, designed to work with the newer electronic regulator. The older round back style alternator with the grounded field, is designed to work with the old mechanical regulator.



If I were trying to make a Hemi look right, I'd use the older style. I have the older style GM alt with the external mechanical regulator on my Chevy II, after all. it works fine.

 

Mopar didn't use a diode because they had an ammeter, unlike inferior makes that use a cheap idiot light. With an idiot light you may need a diode.

Just get the Mopar electronic regulator. Only 2 wires and the last time I bought one they were only $12 maybe a little more now.

Here is a wiring diagram for any car that used that alternator. Go ahead and cookbook the wiring together the same way. Don't make things harder than they are.

The important point is that the regulator and alternator field are connected to keyed power, and the other alt field connection goes back to the regulator.

 

Reviving this old thread: As to the "electronic" on the right, is the ammeter and ballast resistor required in all applications? I was just going to use a voltage gauge.

 

Ballast resistor is for the ignition not the alternator. You can use a volt meter, it makes no difference. Except of course the volt meter is wired in different.

In other words the ballast and ammeter have nothing to do with the function of the alternator or regulator. You can omit or change them and it will not affect the alternator, although the ballast may affect ignition performance.

The distinction is between the gauge and the idiot light, an idiot light may need a diode to work. But you can forget that if you have a volt meter.

 

The blue wire in the electronic picture must switched and not to the battery or it will run the battery down. This wiring can also be used on late model Chryslers that have the regulator in the ECM. If the regulator part of the ECM goes out you can use the electronic regulator and not have to replace the ECM much cheaper.