To start off, I just read every thread using the "Search Function" Regarding the Inilite and MSD and Mallory HyFire 6 ez. I have two questions: 1) I ask what type of coil to use, with or without internal or external balast? I've had some to say they run it with an internal balast and some that say not to use a balast at all. 2) Is it as simple to say the modual is either good or bad or do they sometimes work and then just quite? Here's the deal, 350 SBC, .040 over, comp springs, roller rockers, tunnel ram and 2 450 holleys. I was having a problem with the points dizzy. I have a Mollory Unilite setting on the shelf, I'm also using the Mallory HyFire 6 ez unit, so, I put it in and loved the way it fired up so fast, not turning the motor for long, the motor ran great and had awesome throddle responce. After running for about 10 minutes it started to stumble real bad, sounded like it was only running on a few jugs, then it would pick it's self right back and run normal for a short time, then it became more frequent. I've always thought they either worked or didn't work. Any suggestions, Thanks in advance Gary
Use Mallory's coil for electronic ignition. You DO need an external ballast resistor, be it a ceramic edition or the proper resistor wire. If you do NOT use that, you will harm the internals of the distributor. Mallory has an excellent Tech/Help line....use it. dj
i use a stock coil with a ceramic GM ballast resistor which has worked well, I also use a 7.5 amp fuse to the coil because PorknBeaner suggested doing that to eliminate spikes to the module and blowing it out, he suggested 1 amp per 1000rpms you plan on turning your motor
I have always suggested the Mallory Promaster coil (part#29440). Definitely run a ballast resistor. Mallory also makes an in line plug in protector for cheap money that will keep you from blowing unilite modules. Unilites also work best when the car is properly grounded... Block to frame, frame to body, battery to frame, battery to engine, all clean connections. A bad ground can send a voltage spike to the module and pop it, causing you to buy another one. Also, If I remember correctly make sure that you have a minimum of 10.5 volts at the coil during cranking. Some GM cars had a resistor wire and when you add the resistor block (ceramic from a late 60's Chrysler product) it drops the voltage too low to start the car properly. Good luck, Matt
From Mallory's instructions; NOTE: The purpose of an ignition ballast resistor between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use an ignition ballast resistor will eventually destroy the Ignition Module
I'm running a used Unilite on my sbc for the past year & I used the matching Mallory coil, external ballast resister & surge protector. So far, so good.
Ok here's the deal, first off the Help Line wasn't worth the time I was on hold, turns out the module was damaged, the new modules instuctions say you must run the balaster either interal or external, I'm using a new coil with a built in balast resistor as per the instructions. Runs perfect, starts right up and performs well at higher rpm. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll let you know how it holds up. PS: Seems like I have heard good and bad, about 50-50 on the Unilite, Right now everything seems good. Gary
I just ran into the same thing. I have a Unilite on my Ford the coil was the big yellow Accel with at ceramic ballast. I wanted something more in character and ordered the Mallory round chrome coil listed as universal by Summit. Got the box and said, use only with breaker point ign. Summit picked up the old coil and I swapped for a MSD 8200, comes with a resistor, but said to be used with electronic ign, do not use resistor. Wired it all up with and without. No noticable diff yet. Coil is not getting hot and engine runs OK, no resistor. MSD coil was cheaper and came with resistor.
Also, carry a jumper wire with you to jump out the resistor if the car ever quits and fails to refire because of a bad module. This will give the module 12 volts and get you started enough to get home.
Put a resister in there or you'll burn out the module sooner or later. Believe me. I know. $10 and 10 minutes. No reason not to.
i have a unilight in my Falcon, its been there for at least 10 years with its original module still in it. i am using a mallory canister style coil with external ballast resistor. i recently had running issues and turned out to be dirt in the carb. i havent had any module issues at all.
Big fan of the Unilite myself and the OP is right...Mallory's Tech Site sux...Here is a excellent site for Unilite help. http://www.centuryperformance.com/mallory-unilite-and-e-spark-testing-spg-150.html I did have fits trying to track down a intermittent problem on one a few years back, Turned out the insulation was worn and the wires were rubbing together...inside the grommet that goes through the distributor itself!
I have a unilite 3748201 and ballast resistor and running "msd"blaster in 327/350 hp, headers, edelbrock performer, holley 600 in 61 Corvette named "obie", for oh be good. Yesterday stopped like a quartz watch w/o battery for me. No spark not at plugs or coil. Had her towed home. That evening she fired right up and drove 1 mile w/I problems. Seems time for new coil and ballast resister. Recommendations?
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