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Hot Rods 1947 chevy truck front disc upgrades

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fafaniruzik, Jul 9, 2016.

  1. fafaniruzik
    Joined: Sep 16, 2009
    Posts: 93

    fafaniruzik
    Member

  2. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    I'm happy with my speedway kit. Worked out well with no issues.
    They come drilled for 5x4.75 but if you call them I believe they can swap the rotors for just about any 5 lug you want. I took mine to work and milled them for multi patern since I wasn't sure of what direction I was going with the rear and. (Truck pattern vs car pattern)
     
  3. fafaniruzik
    Joined: Sep 16, 2009
    Posts: 93

    fafaniruzik
    Member

    Running a trans am rear. So bolt pattern should be 5 x 4.75. But that's good to hear about it fitting well. I hear mixed reviews about the CPP kits.
     
  4. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    Quite honestly I would be surprised if both the speedway and cpp weren't made by the same place. Not having seen the kits side by side it's anyone's guess. I like the fact that I can just go to my local parts supplier and buy nearly every part with the exception of the brackets, should anything go wrong.
     
    Chavezk21 likes this.

  5. fafaniruzik
    Joined: Sep 16, 2009
    Posts: 93

    fafaniruzik
    Member

    That could be, but the speedway kit was a little cheaper without the booster than the CPP. Was justcurious if anyone had experience with either. Was planning on purchasing one or the other this week goes with new lowering springs for the front
     
  6. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    FWI. I bought the under floor power booster kit form summit racing. It was their house brand. The quality was just kinda OK. Didn't come with a proportioning valve or any lines like the CPP kit did. By the time I bought all the other goodies, I should have bought the speedway or the cpp kit. Only real problem I have had is the pedal height it's WAY too high. Only has about an inch of travel from off the brakes, to fully stopped. Think I'll machine up a shorter push rod to get it in a more comfortable position. It's down right silly how far up the pedal is.
     
  7. fafaniruzik
    Joined: Sep 16, 2009
    Posts: 93

    fafaniruzik
    Member

    Sorry for such a late response to this. But is your truck that you bought the booster setup for 3/4 ton?
     
  8. jetnow1
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 2,152

    jetnow1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from CT
    1. A-D Truckers

    3/4 ton and 1/2 ton are virtually the same from the cab forward, just a little heavier steel in the frame
    on the 3/4 ton so the booster should fit the same. Of course the rear of the frame is very different.
     
  9. fafaniruzik
    Joined: Sep 16, 2009
    Posts: 93

    fafaniruzik
    Member

    Good to hear. I was reading a manual. Seems the 3/4 ton frame is just a hair thicker. Might have to drill the frame to mount the pedal assembly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
  10. Timbofor
    Joined: Dec 4, 2014
    Posts: 192

    Timbofor

    On the OE brake setup, the master cylinder is the same, regardless of 1/2 3/4 or 1 ton chassis. Mine is a short bed step side 1/2 ton. The kit although a tad sketchy, used the original mount holes, plus a couple I added. I use a transfer punch and a step drill. They work fantastic for drilling frames. I'm currently having troubles with the pedal not returning all the way up to turn off the brake light switch. Shouldn't be an ordeal to fix.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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