Looking for pics and info on building a custom headliner using abs. It's going in a 36 ford pu with a 5" chop. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No ones ever made a headliner. I was thinking of covering the inside with plastic and using spray foam for around the curved sections. The plastic should make it removable. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A friend of mine did something like that, but I don't have any pics of it. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It seems like it would be fairly easy to make 2 or 3 sections out of fiberglass, then glass them together
I would need to use the foam as a form for the fiberglass. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks chopped51 for the pics I might be able to pull something like that off. I'm running a overhead console and instead of trying to curve it to the doors I'll try to make it flat Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used a sheet of ABS to make a headliner in our chopped 39 Dodge truck. I cut it oversize, started by putting on the outside of the top, and then heating and bending it slowly to start to get the curve. Then moved it inside to heat and bend to fit the curve inside. Slowly heating and bending all around, the back corners were the most difficult. Don't have a great picture, but this might help. I then covered it with a foam backed headliner material.
Scroll through this thread skipstitch does a really good tutorial on how to do custom headliners: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...amples-of-coupe-headliner-installation.38449/
Thanks D Russ that turned out super. I think that were my problem comes in is the big curve in the back like on unkamorts. If I go with a flatter panel then I lose headroom. Unkamort how did you do yours ? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got a large sheet of clear thin plexi glass. It extends from underneath the header panel above the windshield to the bottom of the rear window,and was 48" wide. After that was tacked into place with some screws I marked where the rear window cut out needed to be made from the outside. After that I glued the fabric side of the (fusion bonded) material to the plexi. At 54" it was wide enough to make the trip to the tops of the door frames. Your right about the area of the upper rear cab corners. If your looking for fault thats where it can be found... I wasn't overly happy with that. A couple of well planed sewn seams there might have cured my ills but I'm not set up for that, so I folded and glued the material.I also replaced the tack strip at the center interior crown of the roof just in case, but it hasn't sagged at all. Its' been in there for 2-3 years. There are cardboard replacements for the 38/39 trucks... at $300+ it just wasn't in the budget. Hope this helps.
Forgot to mention... I modified a pizza cutter with some vacuum hose to make certain the bonded seams stuck firmly to the plexi.
Well thank goodness elections are over for now. There's plenty of plastic election signs all over the place. I talked to a guy from the county he told me I could take down as many as I wanted , so he doesn't have to. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I use wood in the center and shape pieces of chipboard around the curves and then cover with foam. Can't seem to find any pictures right now but it works really well.
At risk of offending the Traditional Police ('nuthin'but love guys)... I used material exactly like that for my door panels. Lite as a feather and water proof. I sealed all the edges with silver tape and hogged out the original metal panel screw holes to accept plastic retainers.
Thanks everyone for the ideas. Here's a pic of my dash, trans tunnel and first layout of door panel Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tried my make a one piece shell but it didn't work out. This is what I came up with so far. Also finished my center console. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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