Well cool mate! Sounds and looks mint...beautiful blue sky's and nice views too...... Not like our English summers.. You grow gills to over here Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Fisheye camera lens makes it look like reverse ackerman on stoplight turns. LOL The ride is a cool flashback to Kathy's "Tuffy" coupe first drive with the decklid banging over bumps because the latch was missing. What is the final drive ratio?
Yes there is a lot of banging going on, no rubber bumpers in doors and deck lid, three trap doors in floor and no sound deadener anywhere.. I hesitate to put any deadener in yet as there is still some body work to do. If I remember correctly the ring and pinion are 3.54 with 1:1 gears behind that. I have a couple more quick change gear sets to go up or down from there. The one-two shift is quick, then it's all two-three - two-three from there Like driving a two speed, even with the fairly bumpy cam and four carbs there is plenty of low torque for the little car to pull out fine on the street. You will notice it looks and sounds like it's really moving along but the other cars are either right there or pulling away.. haha
I need to study up on LaS and Olds/Buick trans gear ratios. My Olds gears in the Buick case with 3.23 final, acts so much different than Roadsirs 32 3w with Buick case with mixed Buick/Olds gears and a 3.73? I think. His first video at the shop parking lot, sounds like he is taking off in 2nd without exaggeration. Mine can take off on flat ground without touching the gas by floating the clutch in 1st. .
I secured the trap doors, put rubber bumpers in doors and trunk lid and put just enough sound deadener in to quiet all that racket down. Much more tolerable now
still a few little things to work out, emergency brake handle and placement, remainder of electrical- only wired the charge, start and brake light circuits so far. gas fill, 'would be nice to be able to put gas in without opening the trunk need to hook up the rest of the gauges, 'only have oil pressure and temperature hooked up so far. the rest is pretty much cosmetic, light bodywork, paint and upholstery the small glass pack mufflers have a raspy sound under acceleration, like a six cylinder with two added cylinders.. not too crazy about that, but the way I put it together it would be a big undertaking to change. stuff like no exhaust crossover under the large plenum, virtually no runner length, over carburation, a fairly radical cam and constant gear whine from the rear I think can live with all that
took the roadster for a little drive yesterday, 'went to Vashon, my old home town. where I spent most of my young adult years but a lifelong home base for my family for generations. Every year about this time the owners of a little mom and pop gas station put on a car show there, it's one of my can not miss shows. The show has mostly off topic vehicles with the majority being the '60s and '70s era cars these days but there is always everything from vintage hydroplanes to antique trucks to exotic imports to.. well at least one example of just about every form of motorized collector vehicle there is. this year I represented the traditional hot rod example as mine was the only early hot rod style car in attendance. got to catch up with lots of friends and family and drive around the island 'put about a hundred miles on the car and all without one hiccup.
I really like the way the car has turned out for you Paul. Must be a fun ride and a good substitute for the RPU. Can you show me some details on the door bumpers? Also what you did for sound deadener.
Thanks guys, The door bumpers are just temporary while I wait for stock replacements, right now they are cork gasket material glued to the flanges of the latch strike plates. For sound deadener I used Peel and Seal asphalt based foil back flashing from the big box store.
remember those school bus seats? remember how when you got where you were going you were glad to be out of those seats? about like that. seriously though, not too bad the back is sagging a bit, only a cosmetic issue so far and the seat is foam on plywood and feels like it. but I haven't been in the seat for more than an hour or so at one time yet so no complaints. if I keep the car long enough it will have shiny paint and real upholstery one day.
you've done such a beauty of a job on this build Paul, thanks for keeping everyone up to date on what you've been doing. It's been inspiration towards my own T roadster build
Pretty cool! Just a few short weeks ago it was a bunch of parts, and now you're making miles and memories with it. Damn I love hot rods! The picture of the lady and the '34 truck seems like there is a story to it?
finally got around to hooking up a couple dash gauges only gauges hooked up so far have been the oil pressure and water temperature but they were both on the firewall! hooking up the oil pressure was easy, just added a T fitting at the remote filter block off and run a new tube, luckily the gauge still had it's original nut. the water temp gauge took a bit more effort, I cut the original gauge tube, cleaned up the end cut a short length of the excess oil pressure line drilled it big enough to take the temp sender tube, took an inexpensive mechanical temp gauge stuck the bulb in a bucket of ice water cut it's tube stuck both gauge and sender tubes into the splice tube and gave it a tiny drop of solder on each end. to test I plunged the bulb in a pan of boiling water and then the bucket of ice water and repeated that process a few times. put the gauges back in the dash and drove it around till the temp came up. the gauge is reading about five degrees low if the boiling water is actually 212 degrees but it reads very close to the gauge on the firewall and oil pressure reads exactly the same I think I can live with that for now.
That is awesome on the temp gauge repair. Had no idea you could do that. Probably the closer to the old gauge the repair is made the better it will work?
yes, logic dictates; keep as little of the original tube and as much of the new as practical. I could have cut my original a little shorter but wanted to leave enough to make a second attempt just in case the first attempt failed. I plan on replacing the works for the fuel gauge at some point when I do I can try to fine tune the temp gauge to read a bit more accurately. Edit: I did not need to open up the fuel gauge to get it working. so I will leave the temp gauge as is. (It is an indicator and does not need to read perfect)
Hey Paul, how is your back rest secured to the wall of the roadster? I have a 27 as well, but I don't have the seat frame. It doesn't look like you have the backrest frame. Thank you.
little improvements, secured the bell at the top of the column, and hooked up the horns- and yes they are loud! not sure of original application but they were with a bunch of '50s-'60s Buick and Cadillac parts they sound like late '50s GM big car horns too put in the correct ohm sender and resistor for the stock '37 Chevy truck gas gauge it seams to work fine, no more wood dip stick to check the level.. and put together a fill neck with vented cap no more climbing inside the trunk to put gas in.
Looks great Paul, I just finished some ABS plastic interior panels in my RPU that you might find interesting. And I also built some fancy door spring loaded door check straps that keep the doors from hitting the headers. Larry. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-up-build-thread.460009/page-29#post-11679146
The seat back is constructed just like the seat bottom, padding and upholstery over 1/2" plywood. I ran a few screws through the sheet metal from the trunk side to hold it in place. The bottom edge is shimmed away a little to give some lower back support.
went to Tacoma Speedometer yesterday, brought the '40 Ford speedometer drive and '37 Chevy speedometer sat in the waiting area for five minutes while they made up a new cable. very fast and friendly at a very fair price. speedometer reads about two or three mph off at 35 compared to one of those "your speed" radar signs must have had 3.78 gears before I put the 3.58 gears in, not worried about that, if and when I swap gears in the quickchange it'll mix it up again. last gauge to get working will be for monitoring electrical 'plan to swap the ammeter guts for volt meter.. we'll see.. also developing a minor leak at master cylinder, ordered a new one from NAPA should be in this morning. no pictures of any of that right now boring stuff so here's a simple shot of the grocery getter..
Had somebody on the AD facebook page tell me you couldnt fix temp guages when I mentioned this method of repair Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!