Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1955 Dodge PU custom

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TroyZC3, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. 4msfam
    Joined: Jun 25, 2011
    Posts: 69

    4msfam
    Member

    Wow! Looking great! What size rims and tires are you using? They look perfect!
     
  2. Thank you! The tires are 215-65R15 front and 295-50R15 rear
     
  3. I've been making some progress on the bed lately, you know, trying to get it looking like a truck for the first time. Here is the rear cross member I made to support the bed sides. I wanted to make sure it was nice and rigid.
    IMG_3317.JPG IMG_3318.JPG
     
  4. Then there was dealing with one of my pet peeves which is squeaky, metal on metal rust traps that were the old style hinges. My solution started with two needle bearings I pressed into the lower tailgate tube.
    IMG_3319.JPG
    Then I turned down some 3/4 SS rod to fit perfectly in the bearings. I made some SS plates for mounting, set the tailgate in place, and welded them together.
    IMG_3320.JPG IMG_3324.JPG
    Now it is silent and smooth as butter.
     
    fstfish66 likes this.
  5. Current work is all about the inner fenders in the bed and the tunnel that will cover the frame notches and rear end. The inner fenders came from trailer fenders that I cut about 6" out of and narrowed. IMG_3321.JPG IMG_3322.JPG
    But she is starting to look pretty complete!
    IMG_3323.JPG
     
  6. Great Idea and fab work with the needle bearings!
     
  7. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    You have done a ton of great work on this truck. The bearings on the tailgate hinge are a huge improvement over oem.
    I might have missed it...what was your resolution on the fuel pump mounting position/protection?

    .
     
  8. Thank you both, and yes about the fuel pump. Originally I went with a 14 psi unit and a regulator with future power adder plans in mind, but I couldn't tame the pressure down low enough, so I was just overflowing fuel. So when I switched to an Airtex pump like this one:
    https://www.bing.com/images/search?...41e00c5c717dc0c2ec5247ec0ccc7481o0&ajaxhist=0
    I mounted it a bit higher so the bottom of the pump is even with the bottom of the tank. Now it no longer looks out of place, and I don't think there will be a gravity feed issue. Heck, I think I've seen these things mounted on inner fenders before.
     
  9. And here is what I did today, the bed tunnel. 1098 (2).jpg 1102 (2).jpg
     
  10. So I am open to suggestions for tail lights at the moment. I really planned on 1950 Pontiac lights, two vertically on the rear of each fender, but in order to put them where they can be seen, I'll have to recess or "french" them slightly, because of their 4.25" diameter. Anyone know of other round lights a bit smaller maybe?
     
  11. fstfish66
    Joined: May 28, 2005
    Posts: 376

    fstfish66
    Member
    from eastern pa

    nice metal work,,,love the tail gate hinges
     
  12. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    1956 Dodge
    1955 Pontiac

    .
     
  13. Interesting, I like both of those tail lights, they seem to be a bit harder to come by as well. I have also been considering doing the opposite of frenching the tail lights by pushing the mounting bucket out instead of in. It is only a slight curve, so it wouldn't look too extreme. It would match how my front turn signals are, and it might look more factory.
     
  14. My tailgate latches started as an off the shelf item, but I seem to always take things to the extreme by machining something. I purchased a hidden tailgate latch set off ebay, and then made these pieces to house the latches and extend the upper tailgate tube. The pieces are painted with weld thru primer.
    1124.jpeg 1112.jpeg 1120.jpeg 1116.jpeg
    And most importantly, my helper
    1126.jpeg
     
  15. The last piece for the tailgate was the cables. I machined a few copper ends that would ride on shoulder bolts. I used some hollow ground strap that I crimped inside the copper pieces, and then covered everything with shrink tubing. Nutserts in the stake pockets allowed for a removable bracket on the bedsides, and a welded bracket on the tailgate.
    IMG_3327.JPG IMG_3326.JPG IMG_3328.JPG IMG_3325.JPG
     
  16. Wow, it has been a while and a lot of stuff has happened. The biggest of which is my new job which is requiring me to relocate to San Jose in two days. But I have known about it for a while now and as a result have been cramming on my truck. So let's go about this chronologically. Around the last time I posted, I was able to drive the truck around the block, which uncovered some problems. Mainly, the PS pump was leaking and the pinion seal was leaking. And it began...
     
  17. So the PS Pump was easy, then I replaced the pinion seal in about ten minutes. But when I was about to put it together, I realized the pinion threads were seriously FUBAR. So this meant removing the axles, diff, pinion, new crush sleeve, run a die over the pinion threads, special tool fab to hold the yoke, snap one breaker bar, buy a 3/4 drive set, round over 2 new pinion nuts, get a third, loctite, boom done finally. IMG_0104.JPG IMG_0106.JPG
     
  18. Then I could get on with some fab work like making this grill insert out of an old chevy truck bumper, 60's I believe. It sorta mimics the original Dodge two bar design. IMG_0079.JPG
     
  19. I am surprised I don't have any pictures along the way, but I started doing some serious body mod and fab work after the grill. I made a roll pan, short running boards, and straightened out the fascia and filled the old bumper bracked holes. Here is an overall picture of how it stands today with everything but the doors in primer. IMG_0157.JPG
    IMG_0158.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Wow, how are those for some dark vague pictures, but they did give a sneak peek at what I actually just finished today, the bed... I started with 3/4 maple wood that I cut down to size and cut slots in to accommodate the aluminum flat stock that would serve as the strips for clamping. I put on two coats (for now) of marine spar varnish with a big ole cartoon lookin brush and let dry for one day per coat. The aluminum strips were drilled and countersunk for stainless flat head cap screws all around, and finished with a red scotch brite pad. It is what I like to call a machinists take on how a bed should be assembled. The bed cross members are drilled and tapped so it is easily assembled by one person from the top. Then the bed tunnel, which now has a mounting flange added, is dropped over the top and bolted down. IMG_0151.JPG IMG_0152.JPG IMG_0153.JPG IMG_0155.JPG IMG_0159.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2017
  21. And here is a little side note thing, the emblems. I had the shape cut out on a CNC plasma cutter a while back. Then I put them in the mill and drilled two holes and counterbores. I dropped in 4-40 socket head cap screws, and welded the heads in place. And there you have it. IMG_0142.JPG IMG_0143.JPG IMG_0144.JPG
     
  22. That's pretty much it, I hope to get some more pictures tomorrow on the details, assuming it's not raining.
     
  23. Congrats on the new job your making Great Progress! Keep going! The bed looks Great ! Hobo Jim
     
  24. Thank you Jim! It is fun to see the vision I have had for it all these years finally come together.
     
  25. Here are those running boards mentioned, and some better overall pictures IMG_0162.JPG IMG_0160.JPG IMG_0161.JPG IMG_0163.JPG IMG_0164.JPG
     
  26. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    You have some very interesting details.

    .
     
  27. At least Im not the only one who thinks so. :D
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.