Technical Input/experience with pull-type slaves please?

I did exactly that sir, however I don't have a ton of experience with manual transmissions and thus haven't stepped on enough pressure plates to really notice the differences.
I did have an OEM push slave mounted on it originally, but it was sticking out past the firewall too far for my liking so for aesthetic purposes I wanted to try a pull-type to hide it under the floor as I have never tried that before.
The whole build has been a learning experience as I started with basically nothing, just a terribly rotted shell, first time I have ever built most of it from scratch and assembled this particular collection of parts so it's all part of the learning curve.
Regards, John.

 

Hi Bob.
I'm pretty sure it's a late 60's cast Chevy truck bellhousing with the matching truck fork now. Afco master with 7/8'' bore, Welder Series under floor pedal assembly & the Speedway pull slave.
I had an aftermarket clutch fork in originally which was causing one problem as pictured above, so that came out last night and the cast truck fork went back in. The slop is out of the release bearing but I'm still not quite getting enough travel to release the pressure plate.
When it was on the floor last night I put a bar on the clutch fork and confirmed it would release but it's definitely a stiff clutch as I had to pull like hell.
The fork is adjusted about 5 degrees towards the engine, the release bearing is about a 16th off the pressure plate, the slave is pulling parallel to the trans, it works, just not quite enough, but it's certainly possible I have made an error somewhere still, your input would be certainly welcome.
Regards, John.

 

I don't have a lot of experience with them, but I used the Modern Driveline kit on mine, and I really had to bleed the heck out of it multiple times to get it right.

 

Once I figured out my pedal geometry, I was golden. I used an AFCO hose to connect the master and slave. This is my set up just before it went in the car.

 

Ok good to know thank you sir.
Here's another question I would appreciate input on if someone would be kind enough to comment, when a diaphragm clutch releases, does it release with constant pressure throughout the release or does it get progressively stiffer as it releases?
This particular clutch, as you press the release bearing against the fingers/tines/whatever they are called, starts out relatively easily, then gets stiffer and stiffer as the pressure plate starts to release, till it finally 'lets go' and the fingers release the plate.
If I put a short piece of pipe, about 12'' over the clutch arm, I have to pull like hell to get it to release, not sure the Speedway slave is strong enough to overcome the pressure plate release point and that's ultimately what the issue is.
Any of my limited experience with pressure plates is they release smoothly with constant resistance during the entire movement.
I'm not convinced the clutch itself isn't the culprit and the Speedway slave is ok, but I don't have enough experience to compare them.
If someone has a method of testing a clutch/pressure plate to ensure it isn't overly stiff I would really appreciate knowing.
Thanks and regards, John.

 

Great thank you Bob.
Would you be able to guess at what the travel is at the outer end of the clutch fork so I have a ballpark to compare it to?
Thanks and regards, John.

 

That would be a huge help on this issue, but it takes two people to get the measure of stroke. I just hold a ruler next to it, braced so it does not move, then watch how far the push tip travels on the ruler...with someone working the pedal.

the fork that Bob has is what I call a Chevy truck fork. If you can see it, there are two sets of V-notches for the "blade" tip to push on. I never found out why, but I think one V is for mechanical, and other is for hyd clutch?

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I do have a question for John. When you are testing the release on the disc, are you running the engine and seeing if it can go in gear, or are you not running, and trying to turn the driveshaft?

I use 4th gear, motor off, wheels off the ground, then a long screwdriver through the front u-joint. I put pressure on the screwdriver while someone starts to push the pedal down. When it starts to turn, I ask the helper if the pedal is almost at the floor or not.

If your clutch does release enough to turn a bit, even with pedal mashed hard, it will get better after some miles if the disc is new. A new disc has raised edges from machining, that will wear off fairly quick, and this will make the disc release sooner.

I'd remove that 1/16" gap at the TOB, and get it down to thousandths, just enough so the bearing does not spin.

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Ok good enough sir, appreciate your input once again.
I am testing it with the motor off & no driveshaft, as the car isn't wired yet and the driveshaft isn't built, just turning the transmission by hand.
I figured the slight scuffing of the disc on the pressure plate is because it's all new parts and would wear in soon enough, and it does work now after changing the forks, but I have my foot pretty much through the floor and the Speedway slave just pulling for all it's worth to get it to release.
I will adjust the bearing & get rid of that 1/16'' gap but I'm sure I'm still missing something somewhere.
Regards, John.

 

The notch closest to the TO bearing is for a hydraulic clutch, from what I've been told. The outboard one won't line up with a stock set up. If the outboard position was used, it would require even more slave travel, but at a better mechanical advantage. That fork and bell housing, even the flywheel will take a 12" clutch, I'm using a 11" Zoom diaphragm clutch.

How much did mine move... it actually moved a bunch and the way we struggled with it it was a eureka moment when the clutch finally released. I would say a full inch, maybe a little more. My slave had a travel of 1.25" so it used a lot of it. We did everything with the engine off and the trans in neutral.

 

If you can turn the output shaft in gear, then do not worry about the scuffing sound. I think you have it sorted out. I bet it will go into 1st and reverse without grinding. Those lowest gears are where it would grind, if it was marginal, but I think it's OK now.

Those fluffed spots on the new disc will disappear very quickly, and there is no need to abuse the clutch disc by trying to burn it in.

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Speedway unit does not have enough travel. Close, but no cigar. Try the Howe.
Just read all the specs on the two units.

 

Ok guys, thank you all for your help, much appreciated as always.
Going to fine tune this operation, change the slave to a Howe just to be safe & call it good.
Regards

 

Howe travel is 1.125", picked up a 1/4" right there.

 

Yep. Told the girlfriend about the potential new 1/4'' of travel, maybe she'll stop bitching now.