Chevrolet Impala 1964 327ci Mallory HEI Ignition Problem: Replaced worn Distributor cap, rotor and plug wires, engine starts with no issues then cuts off after running fine for up to 5 - 10 mins. Fuel pump tested good, engine not over-heating, engine will restart cold.
The coil is relatively new, however I understand that new parts can fail at any point in time. Is there a test or procedure that can validate a "Hot Coil"?
i haven't taken the time to change out (whatever it takes ) yet to solve a similar problem on a 47 chevy truck 6cyl... POINTS it has intermittent stall , circuit interruption like it goes OFF for 1/100th of a sec -n- back on. i cure it here one of these days ...lol it idles perfect runs without popping on banging off -n- on, you can BARELY feel it at ROAD speeds. if and when i cure it (i'm SLOW no really slow) i'll share the results... anybody wanna guess along the way we'll get us a WINNER after the FIX...LOL...
If I understand this. You had not problem until you made changes? Put the old cap,rotor and coil back on to see if the problem goes away.That will narrow the trouble down some.Did you use the Heat Sink grease under the coil?
Before trying the old cap/rotor (coil was replaced a year ago, so no old one), I started the engine in 90 degree heat with no issues, ran it for 8-10 mins., turned engine off, restarted right away, ran engine for another 3-4 mins., turned engine off and then restarted with no issues. I could not get it problem to repeat itself so far, so I will cold start it tomorrow in cold temperature (65-68 degrees) and re-test. In the mean time, I'm not familiar with "heat sink grease", what is it and how do I apply it to the coil (bottom/top?), layers?
ooppps I made an error. The grease goes between the module and distributor body. If you changed the coil in the cap,Have a good look at the 4 screws that hold it in. One of those screws is for a ground. It must be totally clean
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