I'm doing the same thing with my T. Question is, what to do about oiling the bottom end? Will the T flywheel provide enough splash or should the oil pump be incorporated, maybe running the pickup into the oil pan? Any thoughts? Hats off to all the contributors on this thread, I've been fishing on it for a long time. Whenever a discussion comes up over this engine in the uk this thread is ALWAYS mentioned first. Rightly so Cheers. Andy
I am in the early stages of fitting a five speed transmission to my '28 Phaeton. As S10 BW T5 transmissions are pretty well non-existent in the UK, I am going to modify a Ford MT75 trans to fit instead. There will be some machining to do, and possibly some TIG welding, as the MT75 has an integral bellhousing which needs to be removed before the trans can be bolted up to the 4 banger bellhousing. My phaeton is in one piece and running and driving at the moment, so I would really rather do the trial fit-up of the transmission on another four banger bellhousing and motor in the workshop and then just install it in the car along with the Toyota based rear end that I have already put together. '28 motors aren't common here in the UK either, but I have the offer of the loan of a complete spare '26 motor, bellhousing and trans from a mate who owns a '26 Phaeton. My question is, are the dimensions of these earlier parts the same as the '28 setup? Thanks for reading, and thanks in anticipation for any replies.
Little if any difference between a 26 & 28 bell housing from memory. It should work fine for your purposes. 25 bell housing has a couple of holes for selector shafts to go through and different hand braking mounting but you can mount a 28 gearbox to 25 - 28 bell housings. The 28 also has a pressed steel cross member that is bolted between the gearbox and bell housing but again this shouldn't be a consideration for your purposes.
I cut the rear from a '27 bell hsg, removed about an inch (as I recall), and put a new rear surface made from 3/16'' 4130 plate to mount a Volvo M40 Trans in my avatar car. Trick is to pick up center of the input hole in the old plate and preserve the location so that you can bore the hole in the new plate in the correct place. Nice that the stock bell is steel--you and modify it easily without worrying about cracking cast iron welds.
Still has the coil mount and filter mount, mine are missing. Lol. Sent from my GT-P5210 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have a question if anyone can help? Trying to ID my Pistons. The matching 3 measure 3.72" The odd one measures 3.68. Someone seems to have lost concentration while rebuilding.... I would like to try and find a matching one if its possible? Thanks in advance. Andy
Andy The three larger ones with cut-away skirts look like .040 over 1928 pistons--the only year that Chevy used aluminum pistons in the fours. The oddball one is a std size. Hard to tell from the pix if it is cast iron, or aluminum-- but it looks to me like someone threw together that engine with whatever stuff that they had around, just to get rid of it. IF it ran---and that's a big IF--it would make one heck of a racket. oil the plug in that cylinder (I'm assuming that all the cylinders are bored .040 over) and burn oil like the devil. Best option is to check the cylinder sizes, give them a light hone and find another +'040 stock '28 type aluminum piston. Match the weights of all the pistons in the set to as close as you have means to measure, removing metal from the heaviest by shortening the skirt or removing metal from the inside. You might have more luck finding a used set of cast iron ones, they tend to not wear as much as the aluminum ones, but still match the weights. Last resort is a set of new ones--expensive, and the last time I checked, Egge, the most prolific US manufacturer's cast aluminum piston were as heavy as cast iron ones. Any more questions, don't be bashful. Herb
Pulled the last piston and it seems to be a tad oversize.... Thanks Herb. Yes the odd one is ally. I've been thinking about Kumes thoughts, re boring for Model A Pistons. Really because they are readily available and cheap in the UK. But I can't remember reading in this thread weather anyone has gone that far with the cylinders. Is it pushing it too far? 261 Pistons are much more expensive and all the stock is over your side which adds more to the bill. I'm not planning on over stressing the engine. Could A rods and Pistons be the way to go? Apologies if the piston thing has been done to death on this thread..... Andy Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The filling station sell sets for $260 US. Herb do you think they are Egge pistons? Just looking at the illustration I cant imagine them being lighter than a stock 28. Andy I have bored out a 25 block for A pistons with no problems but I think it is a gamble as the old castings may vary in side wall thickness. One of us may have a spare 20 piston - I will check my stash. I remember pulling down an old 27 truck motor which was a runner (truck was used on a farm up until the 1970s for bringing in hay). I found two ali pistons and two cast iron pistons! It also had a distributor rotor made out of a piece of wood and a leather repair on the radiator. Real bush mechanic stuff, quite common down here.
Not exactly rocket science, But. Here is a picture of the adapters I made to allow the use of Holley 1904 carburetors on a Winfield mainafold.
I like your manifold. l just found mine yesterday. Carbs are sad, but l had kits somewhere. Have fun Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like I may get some Glass bowl Holleys which I can snazz up and build linkage. That would be good.
Kume-- I would go with A pistons and rods. Seems safe as I think that quite a few have done it, A few more cubes, and a little more compression can't hurt. Walls are typically pretty thick, although I would make up a boring plate, and torque it down before boring. Bill-- Don't know for sure but I would bet that those pistons are Egge Herb
No. Not at all. The picture shown is the current state of the engine. It still needs plumbing for the oil and a drive for the external oil pump. I really don't work on it much.
Regarding the steel intake port sleeves. Is there any detailed thoughts or testing been done with them? I understand the flower shaped inserts can be binned, owning to improved carburation. Can the steel tubes be shaped? Or removed entirely? When removed the intake looks more like a cave than an inlet port.... I know the quest for any gas turbulence is pretty difficult with these heads, just wondering about people's thoughts. Andy Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's gonna sound funny, but the restoration guys will want the flowered inserts- I see them on Ebay every once in a while, and they always sell!
Andrew, I have always wondered about the port inserts also. I think that the vaporization of modern gas is more a factor in their not being needed today--just like the pipe bringing hot air from the exhaust to the carb. I have always wanted to do a test myself--problem is that when engines get around me they they seem to lose their ''stockness'' so quickly--can't imagine why------------ Herb
Mac. I really should have taken your advice and sold them, too late now. I think I remember reading you run (or plan to run) without the inserts out? Herb. Dam those stock engines. So what do you think about running without them, there is a wider port without them but With them in could there be a Venturi thing going on, actually speeding up the mixture? I don't know why I'm hanging up on this, at the end of the day I'm sure the difference in a near stock engine is negligible anyhow. I've taken your advice and had the block bored for A Pistons
Shame coz I might have had a spare piston to match I am UK based in Oxford so if you need any bits give me a call as I have all sorts of odds and sods for 24 ish through to 28 chevy bits 0787 9264800 Ivan
Just a head's up... no pun intended... There is a clean '28 head in the classifieds that's very inexpensive- not mine, just getting the word out!
Those Holleys and Strombergs are tough to find at sensible money in Europe. So I settled on a pair of Zenith 30mm at the cost of less than a round of drinks. It will probably only need one but two looks so much better.... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I hope I'm on the "nice" list too...lol! I need one with Stromberg flanges though. Planing on running duals the Olds 3-port in my Wife's T. - Proud HAMB member since 2008
MrModelT, if you can give me the port spacing on the 3 port head and the carb bolt pattern i'll see what I can whip up for that cylinder head.
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