Hello I have a few questions about my 1952 fleetline 4 door. Will a 250 inline 6 bolt right up? What about drive shaft? Also I bought some white walls and I think they're a bit big for the back, any suggestions on where to cut to be able to slam the back?
No, a 250 will NOT bolt right up. It's a completely different engine from a 216, which is what you have if the motor is original. You will need conversion mounts, and I'm sure a few other things I'm missing. Not certain about the bellhousing - others with far more knowledge than me will chime in, I'm sure. The car does not have a driveshaft, it has a torque tube, which is an enclosed driveshaft. IF the 250 bolts up to the 216 bellhousing, you can leave the rest of the drivetrain stock, but keep in mind that the car has 4.11 rear end gears, so 55mph will pretty much be your top end, 65 if you really push it, and the engine will not be happy. If you want to keep the transmission and the rear end, the best step is to get a rear end center section (3rd member) from a 51 - 52 car with a powerglide. The powerglide cars used 3.55 gears, which will get you a fairly comfortable 65mph to end. I had a '51 Fleetline and did just that. The simplest way to upgrade the drivetrain is to replace the splash oiled 216 with a later full pressure 235, which IS a direct bolt in, save for the water pump, and a powerglide rear. Otherwise, you're looking at replacing the entire drivetrain. All depends on what you want to do with the car and how far you want to take it. Chris
Good stuff man, I'm pretty much just looking to get it on the road to cruise around town on weekends. Not planing on highway use any time soon.
The car pretty much has no drive train, missing motor, trans, and drive shaft. I came across a 250 on Craigslist for $80 and I'm just wanting to go the cheapest quiqest route to cruisin material
Ok, F+J cleared that one up. Since I don't know if your car has an engine at the moment, I can't offer my opinion on what I think the best course of action would be. Is your car running/not running/engine/no engine, or ? Chris
When you say the driveshaft, can I assume that the whole center section is gone from the rear end? If not, does it have a rear end like, say, a Camaro, where there's a yoke for a universal joint? If so, someone has already swapped torque tube rear end for an open rear end. Confirm exactly what type of rear end you have and go from there. Pics would be a huge help. Chris
Hello Franco,Get a 261 it will bolt right in! You will need to get a different pulley for the water pump ( flatter) and press the mount for it in till it lines up with the crank pulley,then cut off the rest of the shaft ! It bolt right up to everything! Do find a Powerglide rear end and you will love it! I had 1952 that i did this to and it ran Great! look for the bigger size of the 235 six ! I had 1960 261! Uncle Bill
Maybe check the title and numbers ... there's no such thing as a '52 Chev 4dr Fleetline. The gravel shields are '49 -'50, grille & side trim '51. Show us the dash ...
I didn't get a title, I searched on google and I was pretty sure the side trim was off of a 52 I may be wrong though
look at the firewall area for the info tag with a bunch of numbers. it should have: style no. job no. paint and trim numbers
The two guys above me beat me to it. Get a title. And honestly, use the time to educate yourself about your car. Sounds like you jumped in without looking. How much do you know about cars in general? You don't build a car around a set of tires. First thing I would do is ditch what little is left of the original drive train. Sounds like you only have the rear end in it. Learn the difference and benefits of an enclosed vs. an open driveshaft. Do you WANT a 235? Do you know anything about 235's? The 230/250 is the next generation up from the 235 ( I have a car with a 235 and one with a 250, both are good, the 250 is better, not knocking 235's) a great engine family, and will bolt up to any modern transmission. Maybe a v-8 would be better for you. Cheaper to hop up, more power, blah blah blah. Gonna run a standard? Why? Do you know which one, and can you make the linkage work? Maybe an automatic is better (simpler). What rear ends swap in easily? Ask a lot more questions. And GET A TITLE. Otherwise, you could wind up with a car that you have worked and slaved on, only to never be able to drive it.
I know some about 50s Chevys but not too much. I've owned a 52 coupe and a 54 belair but both had running 235s so didn't have to mess with them mechanically. This one I came across from a fellow club member for real cheap and it is in decent condition but missing everything except for the rear end. What I have: I have a 250 motor with a 350 tranny, I want to know what I'll need to get this in? (Driveshaft other that torque tube?) (different rear end?)
I have a 48 Fleetline. I put a 250 and a th350 in it, along with a 57 chevy rear end. It was super easy, I did it by myself in the driveway. I don't know what reared will work best for your car, maybe a 55-57 chevy. Measure and see what fits. Some one here will know. If you go with an open driveshaft, you will have to have one cut to length, (easy), might even find one that fits. I used an early 70s chevy 6 cyl. motor mounts and made my own rear trans mount. Again, it was very straight-forward. Don't be afraid to ask questions. This place is a warehouse of knowledge. Good luck.
You pretty much just described exactly what I want to do. Your 48 sounds like what I want. My buddy let me have a 3rd generation Camaro rear end and drive shaft. Wondering if that'll work, I'll just have to measure. Post pics of your 48, I love those the trim looks like it can cost a good penny brand new, so much of it lol
That's my fantasy. Like an old locomotive. And it could sure hold a black paint job. But my 55 is going to be black and the 48 is going down the road.
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