I have tried to research as much as I can and I have talked porkbeaners ear off about this problem so now it's time to reach out to the whole community. I have a Rochester 2jet carb number 7023061 it's on a 63 389 with a slim Jim trans. The car since I bought it has ran black smoke rich, but at one point I had it where it would not smoke and would run well except for hard starting and a rough idle rarely. So finally I decided it's time to rebuild the old carb, I have rebuilt a couple holleys and a quadrajet all 4bbls. I bought a kit from autozone(I know I know you get what you pay for) but after I opened the carb up I quickly found out the throttle plate and carb body have different hole patterns so no gasket will fit correctly. I looked all over the Internet for this model carb rebuild kit I've looked over pretty much every kit online and at autozone and oreillys without any luck. I took the closet gasket I could find and enlarged the holes to match the carb body. After reinstalling everything (new accel pump, new needle and seat and gaskets) I put it back on the car and it would not idle at all no matter what I did to it, it would not run without looking like a coal train was in the garage. The choke butterfly would not move but the slightest bit so I removed it and inspected the shaft which was fine so I figured the choke butterfly was the wrong one because the carb had been rebuilt recently as it had newer gaskets on it and was clean inside. I shaved enough off of the sides and edges of the butterfly that it will fit and move freely. Still no change. It will ride on the cam and run without smoking if I unhook the choke linkage to the housing but still will not idle under any circumstance off of it. The idle mixture screws do not make any changes but I know every passage is clean though out the carb. The Venturi booster is dripping out of one side and after the car is shut off it puffs white smoke from the carb if the throttle blades are opened. There was only one check ball in the carb is that correct? Also I did not remove the T that fits under the Venturi cluster because I didn't have anything at that time small enough to get it out. Am I missing something? What could cause it to run that rich any help would be awesome because I am stumped and I know porkbeaners is tired of having me dm him about it ahha.
http://www.carbkits.com/catalog/details/4129 kind of expensive for a kit... Do you have pics of the old gasket, and the new one? so we can compare? or did you toss the old one? or a picture of the new gasket next to the carb base, and also a pic of it on top of the carb base?
You say idle screw adjustment does nothing? How about while running put your hand over the carb, still running? If so you have a big air leak. Black smoke obviously very rich condition so I would set float and turn idle screws out 1.5 turns. That is where I would start. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Let me look in my carb kit boxes I think I kept it but it might be in a couple pieces I know it did not match the carb body or plate because I was confused why it was on there in the first place. The guy I bought the car from was a piece of work so I've been fighting his bubba mechanical skills for about 3 months.
Also I have new plugs msd wires it's running coil and points which I have not messed with nor have I checked timing but I don't think this is timing related
I have adjusted the float a couple times and and have started it at 1.5 turns per my shop manual but without any changes.
also can you adjust the choke thermostat spring so the choke butterfly is always wide open? this would get the choke out of the equation, for trying to figure out why it's running rich.
I have tried that and it runs wife open on the cam and as soon as I give it gas it takes it off the cam and revs up and as I let the throttle down it closes the butterfly and kills it. So I started it on the cam and moved the throttle with my hand and held it open with my hand and it still died on idle
I can't try a different two barrel because the only other one I have is a Holley 6379 and it has a bigger bolt pattern
I guess you didn't understand what I meant...there is a choke adjustment, the big round black plastic thing that is held in by 3 screws. You can loosen the screws, and turn the plastic piece. If you turn it pretty far (like 1/4 turn?) in the direction that opens the choke, it should make it so the choke stays open all the time. Have you played with that?
I like Rochesters, and have been messing with them for awhile. There are two check balls in a 2g, one ferrous, one non ferrous. There is one under that "T" in the cluster, you can easily pull it out with some small needle nose pliers, don't mix them up or it won't work properly, those two balls work with the accelerator pump. Sounds like you have several air leaks, if the carb does not respond to adjustment. Fuel leaking from the cluster may be a float out of adjustment, bad valve etc. sounds like you either have the wrong choke plate or it could be upside down as well. Best thing I ever did was watch The Videos from "Mike's Carburetor", he has several that walk you very slowly through every step to rebuild 2gcs, 4gcs, Quadrajets etc. he actually explains as he goes, he sells the best kits, spare parts and they always answer the phone, I always deal with vendors who answer the phone. Do yourself a favor: take a break, watch these videos a couple times until you understand how your carb is put together; There is a link to their site to buy any parts. There's also some vendors here on Hamb too. They may be able to tell you if the aluminum ball is under the pump or the cluster. If someone previously took that carb apart and put it back together wrong, it will never work right until you fix it. I have had really good luck on ebay finding affordable Rochester cores, just watch out for "stuck throttle shafts", luckily for 2gcs there are new throttle shafts still available since there are a lot of people using them with three carb set ups, not so with the 4gcs. The shafts are bronze so they wear out, the bodies are iron so they usually don't. Quadrajets have bushings that are easy to replace, not so with 2gcs and 4gcs. Your carb looks a bit clapped ou, it may need some love.
No I got you and yes I have if the black dial indicates lean it runs rich if it's rich than it runs rich.
He's right, you have to mess with adjusting the choke housing to get it to open properly, if it's not electric you need to make sure that the coke tube is clear and there is vacuum to pull hot air through it, if it's electric you need to make sure it's functioning. The plate has to move freely and not get jammed. You shouldn't need to "shave" anything off the plate, these things are machined to fit exactly The choke housing adjustment doesn't make the carb run "rich" or "lean", it just changes how quickly, or when your choke opens. Once the engine is running for a few minutes the choke should be all the way open regardless of the choke adjustment.
I've called mikes and have sent pictures but never got a response I am hoping the car King will weigh in
Looks like a miss matched bunch of parts. The openings on the carb body don't match the holes in the base plate. I'm guessing someone broke an ear off and just stuck whatever they could find on.
This choke butterfly was not the correct one it was way over sized it wouldn't move at all. I am not with the car right now but I can try and get a video tomorrow after I get out of class
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