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Technical Small part fabrication - part II

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hnstray, Jul 24, 2016.

  1. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg Having just posted on a thread about A/C, it prompted me to think about a little part I made this week to facilitate an A/C install in my '60 Studebaker Lark.

    The Stude had a period underdash 'box' that was well past functional and the original heater core was leaking and bypassed. The Stude heater unit is in the right fender well and hot air is piped from it through the firewall. You will see from the photos that follow that the firewall had several holes that were not needed. I cut out a section and made a cover plate.

    But the firewall contour in that area angles rearward in the horizontal plane and is not quite perpendicular in the vertical plane either. That meant the bulkhead fittings/hoses would come through the firewall at an unsatisfactory angle. So, I decided to make a mount for the bulkhead fitting that corrected that problem. It was made from 19ga AKDQ steel and hammer formed over a buck made from a piece of plywood I had in the shop.

    When the firewall plate is installed permanently, the sheet metal screws will be replaced by small carriage head bolts that look like rivets. On a total build I would weld in the plate, but for this job that would be beyond necessary.

    I intended to have the photos after the text.....but it loaded this way. I don't know how to fix that without starting over.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  2. Nice workmanship. Looks like it came that way from the factory.
     
    fauj and Hnstray like this.
  3. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Also made a cover plate for the cavity where the heater core had been located. It is a fresh air plenum fed from an inlet next to the headlight. Later, I think I will rework this area into a low buck "ram air" supply to the Stude....may not help much, but can't hurt either.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

    The original heater mount was bulky and intrusive so I first removed the lumps, then made a simple cover. The rear portion does have a different radius on the bend and a slight compound curve.

    Ray
     
    Stu D Baker likes this.
  4. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,015

    belair
    Member

    Nice work. Small things like that make a difference.
     

  5. Nice work, looks much better than the factory stuff.
     
  6. Okie Pete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2008
    Posts: 5,035

    Okie Pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Very nice work . Clean and smooth .
     
  7. young'n'poor
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,281

    young'n'poor
    Member
    from Anoka. MN

    Great work and it came out absolutely fantastic!

    I love seeing these small parts fab projects, attention to detail can make even a simple part look amazing
     
  8. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,262

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    Cool - at least, will be
     
  9. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Thank you for the kind words. I agree it is the small details that can make a difference. And the satisfaction that comes with making a part that 'works' is a nice bonus.

    Again, I appreciate the positive comments.

    Ray
     
  10. Stu D Baker
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,763

    Stu D Baker
    Member
    from Illinois

    Ray, I'm liking your work. You're probably like me though, "I try to do nice work, but just don't do enough of it".
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  11. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Nice work , those are the time eaters , but only you know that they exist.
     
  12. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

  13. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg Next up.......installing the A/C unit in the dash was a tight fit and the best location for the center outlet was the radio mount area. The existing radio faceplate wasn't useful as is, but I wanted to maintain an appearance closer to original than just a smooth faceplate. Studebaker in this era, like AMC, used inexpensive aluminum stampings for trim bits.

    Being a pack rat, I remembered having saved some aluminum cabinet pieces from an obsolete piece of shop equipment. Those panels have a stamped/embossed surface very similar to the original Studie part. Also, I had squirreled away some aluminum edging strips. Combining the two materials is producing a 'sort of' original appearance face plate.

    As you will see in the photos, I made a 16ga steel pattern around which to form the the perimeter from the edging strips. It required removing much of flange in the area of the tight radius ends, but no matter, as the remaining slot will contain the faceplate nicely.

    The new faceplate will contain the A/C outlet and be flanked by the mode and blower switches, mimicking the original radio layout. Temp controls will be located elsewhere in easy reach.

    I soon will post pics of the center plate cut from the aluminum panels and with the vent and switches installed.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  14. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    Good Job! Turned out fantastic, very innovating.
     
  15. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Worked on the faceplate for the center A/C vent some more today. Ended up remaking the insert as I discovered a measurement error in the vent cutout location.

    Made the new insert and attached the surround permanently with some small aircraft aluminum rivets. The holes are drilled for the switches, but they are not installed yet because the insert plate is grooved and the 'function' decals will not lay nicely on that surface. So, I am going to find or make a couple of thin "washer" like discs to be held on by the switch retaining nut onto which the decals can be applied.

    I hope that posting this thread will serve to illustrate that making parts at home isn't all that difficult if you have some common tools and the desire to make the parts. Lots of folks do this sort of thing....you can too! And don't be afraid that you will 'mess up'. The fact is, many of the parts I make are often made twice or three times before I have the final product. That is usually due to one, or a combination of, errors that make starting over necessary.

    Ray
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
    bct and tb33anda3rd like this.
  16. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,734

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

  17. That's what scrap buckets are for... mine's seldom empty... LOL. Great job by the way, I love this sort of tech...
     
  18. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I used the right size fender washer for my 54 Chevy's dash, and had them engraved with the correct names of the switch. Easy to find a local engraver.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  19. scott51
    Joined: Mar 7, 2009
    Posts: 132

    scott51
    Member

    Nice, I get stupidly obsessive about this sort of thing sometimes but don't always have the tools, materials or expertise to do what I want.

    Just finished my third or was it fourth version of a freaking exhaust hanger/bracket thing so can really appreciate where you're coming from.
     

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