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Projects 1949 Cadillac sedanette has not run since 1963

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tookis, Jul 17, 2016.

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  1. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,817

    BJR
    Member

    I would section in a hinge pillar from a parts car rather then try to straighten that one. Also grab the door hinges from the parts car as yours are most likely bent.
     
  2. That took some hard hit. If you can find an old crash guide or body manual for it you'll have all the information to do measurements to see how bad it really is.
     
  3. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Thank you for the reference 1946caddy. I found a guy too in ventura, I got the driver's side door from him and he has a lot of Cadillacs that he came upon when his friend passed away he has lots of ads on Craigslist right now if you need anything he also has a 1947 Coupe for sale.
     
  4. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,536

    40StudeDude
    Member

    I have a pair of '48/'49 fender skirts if you don't have them...good shape, no rust...I'd take $100.00 plus the shipping cost for them if you are interested...

    R-
     
  5. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Definitely caddy-o I have found someone who would let me cut out the part I need for $200 even though I know a good body man I would rather just go the simple route and replace the hinges and pillar
     
  6. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    I bought a '50 Buick that hadn't run in @ 30 years. Pull Plugs and soak with MMO. When I drained the oil I knew the oil pan was coming off. I pulled the lifters because of rust issues. Cleaned rocker arms because of dried oil in passage way. Here are a couple of pics. The car looked like it might run with a little effort as it was garage kept, WRONG.
     

    Attached Files:

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  7. draggin'GTO
    Joined: Jul 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,792

    draggin'GTO
    Member

    You're going to need a body man to hook up to the damaged A-pillar and pull it back to where it needs to be before cutting it out and replacing it with one from a donor car.

    Doing the job right just may involve the services of a body man, simply cutting it out and replacing it without pulling the structure out first isn't going to produce the desired results.
     
  8. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Oh totally, I agree draggingto I work at a row yard and luckily we have a large table for pulling frames and body panels straight.
     
  9. draggin'GTO
    Joined: Jul 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,792

    draggin'GTO
    Member

    Cool, you're lucky to have some heavy pulling equipment at hand to do the job.

    Having that driver's door working properly is so important, if it's not right then you'll never be satisfied with the end result.
     
  10. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Thanks for the pics and your story oldwood. I think starting off with a flush and adding MMO to soak is the safest way to go. I'm sure there is sludge in there. I know the engine is probably semi-good but could go very wrong if I cut any corners and try to start it up without proper lubrication.
     
  11. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Many thanks claymart that was a great pdf I will use that That for sure.
     
  12. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    Absolutely I think after pulling it into shape I can see what I'm dealing with. But I think it would be so much work and so much easier just to cut out the pillar from a parts car.
     
  13. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    I posted a pic of the Oil Pan to show you and other what happens when oil sits for years. I ended up having to replace my OP because water had spider webbed the pan and dry grease on the outside of the pan was the only reason it held anything liquid. Good luck and take your time on preventative actions to save the low mileage Mtr.
     
  14. draggin'GTO
    Joined: Jul 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,792

    draggin'GTO
    Member

    The point of pulling first before cutting out the bad pillar is to straighten out the adjoining structure so the new piece you're adding will go in correctly.

    If you don't pull it back into shape before cutting out the old pillar the new one will not fit right.

    Ask any experienced body or frame man, they always do it that way.
     
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  15. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member

    0H yes that makes perfect sense thank you very much for explaining it to me so I know. It's great to have so much advice and help with this car
     
  16. I was just going to add what draggin'GTO wrote. My buddies who do rebuilds on a regular basis always pull first.
     
  17. southerncad
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 949

    southerncad
    Member

    Great find, and not too bad of a start;)....gonna' be following this thread...imagine that!
     
  18. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,369

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Man what a badass score! This car has so much potential. I look forward to seeing your progress
     
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  19. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 2,060

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    Sure looks like you got a lot of water in the oil.
     
  20. 49_Caddy
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 51

    49_Caddy
    Member
    1. GMB

    That's a pretty sweet score!
     
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  21. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    Condensation after all those years of sitting. Oil will turn to grease /sludge after yrs of sitting also.
     
  22. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    You've gotten a lot of advice one what to do with this great score, so all I'll add is my agreement with those who have advised you to get a GOOD professional bodyman well experienced in heavy collison repair of old cars involved in the repair of that Cowl/Firewall/A-post area.
    That car is a score of a lifetime, and you don't want any mistakes in that area. I also like the careful approach suggested by Rusty O Toole about turning the engine to free it up. OHV engines are much more subject to damage trying to rotate the engine if the valves are stuck than flatheads.
    Please keep us updated on your progress on this great score.
     
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  23. Lebowski
    Joined: Aug 21, 2011
    Posts: 1,564

    Lebowski
    BANNED

    Why don't you post a couple of pics of yours so we can have an idea of what his might look like in a few months?
     
  24. 49_Caddy
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 51

    49_Caddy
    Member
    1. GMB

    It's not purty, but I like it ....
    IMG_1418.JPG
     
  25. tookis
    Joined: Jun 18, 2008
    Posts: 93

    tookis
    Member


    I like it too. That's cool as hell 49. I think I want to leave the original paint on it for a while but the body work is going to stick out like crazy
     
  26. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Pull it first like everyone is advising. Pull all the structure until your new door and hinges fit then replace what you need to. Because once you cut it out there is nothing left to pull with. This is 60+ years of heavy collision repair experience.
     
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  27. southerncad
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 949

    southerncad
    Member

    Leboski asked, so here Ya' go! Cad.jpg
     
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  28. One of the best looking cars ever and a steal at 1500 dollar.
     
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  29. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,301

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1940 Ford

    Great score, will follow along. Lots of good advice given here.
     
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