Technical Intermittent no start

Thanks D2 but electrical is black magic to me, that is why I am asking for simple directions

I am going to move the purple from the power post on the starter to the now empty solenoid post. Best case I'll get a start, worst case I'll still have an electrical issue.

 

On that Chev, is the purple NOT the 'jump' for 12 volts cranking? (it goes from the small 'ign' terminal on the solenoid to the '+' on the coil, bypassing the low voltage of ballast resistor ONLY while cranking.
I say you are correct in the relocation of this purple wire.

 

I had similar in my OT Fairlane with 390BBF. Battery lead to starter and from battery to solenoid was too light a gauge and would not carry the current sufficiently. Upgraded them to heavier cables, problem solved. A good battery and engine earth also helps.

 

Does anyone know what IGN1 and IGN2 translate to on an ignition switch with two IGN post?

I am now left with Blue wire that the harness manufacturer calls the main connector to ign switch

Based on my original wiring schematic I need to run Double green to one IGN post and Brown/Pink to the other.

Based on the literature I have a from my harness manufacturer the Blue wire goes to IGN1 on a V6 ignition but no mention of where it goes on a V8 switch.

 

I think I am able to answer this one on my own...

IGN1 is the same as accessory post or just plain IGN. When the key is in the run it get constant power. IGN2 is powered only when in start position then power goes away.

Please correct me if I am incorrect. If not I just need to splice accessory post so I can get the blue wire attached.

Correct V8 Switch:
View attachment 3264967

Correct V6 Switch:
View attachment 3264969

 

Does IGN1 stay hot when switch is turned to Start position?

Colors don't matter as long as your schematic is corrected, but, on most aftermarket panels I have installed a 14ga purple wire connects Starter pole on switch to neutral safety switch, then from NS switch to S pole on starter. This is solenoid trigger wire. If your ignition needs a ballast resistor to protect the points you may need a ballast bypass wire from solenoid I (sometimes yellow) to + side of coil or output side of ballast resistor.
If IGN2 is only hot in Start position (and the switch has a dedicated pole for the solenoid trigger wire that is only hot in Start position) IGN2 pole could be used to replace wire from solenoid I to coil+. That circuit would supply full BATT voltage to coil+ only during starter cranking. (ballast bypass)

The basic difference between IGN and ACC output is that IGN must stay hot during Start and Run and ACC will be hot on Acc and Run, but will go off when key is turned to Start.

 

Thanks for the replies all!
I buttoned up my ignition switch and got my starter wired.

Starter was:
Battery+ and black ammeter wire on battery post.
Purple solenoid wire from s-post on ignition to s-post on starter
Run post is empty.

I can't call this one done until I figure out how to heat shield my solenoid. How was it done in the 60/70s? Is there a thread here on it?

 

I did some research and found some helpful info. I hope this will help some one else. I do what I can to understand electrical, this is simple enough for someone else like me.

I found a Ford Solenoid conversion kit from Summit:
Tuff Stuff hot start hot 7629.

S post on ignition to S post on remote solenoid (purple wire)
Battery + and Ammeter to larger side post on remote solenoid (red and black wire)
Larger side post on remote solenoid to B post on starter solenoid (use red wire)
Use jumper in the kit on B and S post on starter solenoid

The remote solenoid will need to ground to the body when you attach it.

 

I'd be taking the starter apart to see if "remanufactured" meant anything other than making the outside clean.
Check the brushes, check inside the solenoid to see if the copper + post is worn down, etc.
I think I have my ground strap going to the higher, side Transmission to engine bolt, plus a frame to engine strap.
Remember, heat raises electrical resistance. That's how those coil-in-ceramic ignition voltage drop things work.

 

I got to thinking that every issue I have ever had with this truck was always rooted in excess heat. My four blade fan was completely inside my shroud and not half in and half out as most recommend. I removed the 2 1/2" spacer but fan was now not even close to the shroud. After a while of looking around I came across a 6 blade from summit as other have suggested in the past. I installed it and bingo. It is half in and half out of the shroud.

After about a month of life keeping me busy I was finally able to get a short break to go for
a ride. I don't know if it was more blades or the way the fan is half in half out but it works pretty well. Temp guage was dead middle never even went past half way mark. Cab was bearable to drive in (it is hot here) and I didn't get out soaked like I normally do. Engine was hot but the fenders and exterior metal were warm but didn't burn my hand like they have done before after a drive.

I am going to ride the rest of the season and see how it goes.




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