Alright.... I had to cut the "superior" rear pans in order to match the original front and rear floor pan shapes. I don't understand why the pans require cutting apart like this in order to make it work but I suppose the floors are different between whatever car they made their molds from and my car. It's still better than starting from scratch with flat sheets but if I could go back then I would for the amount these pans cost and used the money to make a custom floor and braces of my own. I cut it in two pieces and zig zagged the cuts so I could "slide" them away from each other in order to be able to tack weld them where they still have a common edge. I will continue to shape and hammer and check the fitment repeatedly until I'm happy with it. Then I can start marking and drilling the holes for the plug welds where the pan meets the cross support and the drivers door sill. I am hoping to get back up there in a couple weeks to finish them. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
jesdude, Keep up the good work on your coupe. These are nice body styles. Glad you're bringing one back to life. I've had two and currently have one now. Tom
Thanks Tom. I wish I had a couple more of them! Yours looks great and I hope mine will look as nice as that some day.
Here are the pictures of my engine in the machine shop as of last friday. I have ordered a bolt in lump kit for the cylinder head and the shop is waiting until I receive the kit before they start to cut the bolt bosses out. I will be picking up the short block this week though. It was done with a Sealed Power Master kit and the pistons are .020 overbore.
small update.... I received the lump port kit from tom lowe and I'm going to go pick up my cylinder head from the machine shop on friday and start the process of installing the lumps by cutting the bolt bosses out and cleaning the walls up and checking fitment of the lumps. Then I'll have to stop for a bit since I need to order the counterbore bit set today and wait for that tool so I can finish it up. I waited because i thought I was going to have the machine shop do it for me but I will save a lot of money this way and have new tools in the process!
thank you fordsum! I am hoping to have this car legally drivable by next year's lone star roundup in Austin.
Started my cuts on the bolt bosses and had the lumps just sitting in there while I test fit them and trimmed a little bit.
where did you get those motor mounts....just starting on a '53 210 and want to go ur route with choice of eng/trans....anyone have one for sale?..in santa ana ,ca...of course.
Things are progressing slowly right now. I found a new place with a 3 car oversized garage and so I will be moving my car back down here to where I am so I can work on it for the next 4 or 5 months of fall here in texas I call it "garage season"! I still need to have the machine shop finish my lump port install, i just haven't taken the head back to them yet since I have been using money for the move. I got the port walls cleaned up really well and the shop just needs to drill and tap for the plug that will go in the top, spot face the floor for the new bolts, and drill and tap the holes on the bottom side for the small bolts to hold the lumps in place. I also went through my Holley carb (8007, 390 cfm) since it has been in pieces for a while and made sure I had all the parts. I had to order new throttle blades with screws and a METAL accelerator pump arm since my carb came with the plastic version which I don't like. Otherwise, I cleaned and assembled it and it's good to go!
I finished up the work on the head this afternoon. I'll be dropping it off at the machine shop tomorrow or monday. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
For my door hinges I had to find a wide Phillips head insert for a drill, but used a small socket wrench instead of drill. The wrench puts more torque on the screw and the wider head prevents stripping the screw heads. Also use WD40 first!
Here's some shots of the completed head back from the machine shop. 1.84 intake and 1.5 exhaust. I did a little bit of work in the ports with my carbide bits and die grinder to smooth out some of the casting imperfections like little random lumps on the walls and a protrusion that was near one of the intake valve seats in the runner. I forgot about having the lumps installed before the valves go in so i will rent a valve spring compressor tool tonight so i can put those in.
I have the lumps installed (with loctite) and I have yet to bolt the head down but here it is sitting on the block. I took one of the old head bolts and notched it so I could use it for a thread chaser to clean out the holes. I'm waiting on an all new (not rebuilt) water pump to come in so I can bolt it on first and then bolt down the head afterward. I believe I read somewhere that it's best to do it this way in order to avoid problems with properly torquing down the head and developing a crack in the front corner of the block. I'll be using a fel-pro blue head gasket. I have a brand new Cometic gasket I ordered for this but I have found out that I will not be needing it.
I bolted the head down finally with ultra black rtv on the threads. I did it in four stages. 30 lb, 50 lb, 70 lb, and the final 95 lb. I had a 3/8" allen head socket for the shorter lump port bolts and switched between that and the normal socket as I did the spiral pattern while tightening them down. The allen socket broke on the first try at 95 lb (damn!) and I live right behind the auto parts store and rushed over there and bought two more of them and came back to finish the job before the rtv has a chance to set up. The second socket lasted long enough to let me finish tightening the first bolt and then the second and then on the third it broke haha. The third socket let me finish the third bolt. So if you're going to do this then make sure you get a high quality socket from snap-on or somebody like that. I also had an issue with the new threaded rocker studs. One of the holes was not properly threaded all the way so I went back to the store to get a tap and fix that. These were also sealed with ultra black rtv on the threads.
how much HP will the lump port kit add to your Inline? What compression are you running? It hard to beat the sound of a hot I6. Looks great by the way. Godspeed MrC.
I'm not sure that it really adds horsepower as much as it improves the overall efficiency of the engine by redirecting the a/f mixture. With my cam, roller rockers, offy intake, and pertronix ignition then I would hope I'm pushing at least 200 hp and 300 lb torque.
I am waaay behind on this thing..... the weather here in Texas is just about always raining on the weekends for the last several months so I can't seem to get anything done on the car and when nice weather is available there is already something else that has reared its ugly head that has to be taken care of first and so my car is kept on the backburner. I was hoping to have the car at the latest LSRU but that wasn't possible. The show was awesome as always and I bought some nice art and shirts at least! I'm in the middle of a "required" engine/trans swap on a non-hamb friendly truck so I have to get that finished soon and then hopefully I will have updates on the 53 in the next couple months. I can't believe that it has already been a year since I posted on here...
Finally getting some work done on the car! I bought a TCI 49-54 Chevy car front suspension kit and the last few days I have been blasting and painting those components as well as the rear suspension brackets I've had for a couple years now. Also removed the body from the frame in preparation for the chassis to be blasted, painted, and installation of the new suspension. I have an 1983 Chevy S-10 rear axle that I picked up at salvage but I'm wondering if I should use it because it needs a complete overhaul and I'm not an experienced axle rebuilder. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
